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Old 09-10-2011, 09:54 AM   #15
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Take it to a performance shop, one that actually builds race cars, street cars, and engines. The right headers and exhaust, with some carbeurator adjustments, timing and fuel flow can make all the difference in the world if done correctly. We had the complete Banks system on our '05 Winnie (8.1 vortec) and, even though it did make a difference, it wasn't worth the money. I took it to a "racer guy" who did his thing and man, what a difference. There all kinds of header products and spark plug accessories to deal with the heat issues now by the way. And yes, it does sound way cool when you're done!
X2..

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Old 09-10-2011, 11:00 AM   #16
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Hi Arnold,

I'm just down the road from you. Do you need to have an emmissions check in P.O.? If not, the headers and good exhaust are well worth the power gains.
Banks is the 'gold standard' unfortunately they are priced accordingly. Thorley and Gibson are good too. I found the best value with the Hedman Elite headers. They have thicker flanges than their standard headers and come with a ceramic coating and a lifetime warranty. The ceramic coating is the key to keeping the underhood temps down and rust away.
Check out SummitRacing.com for a nice selection of headers.
Best of luck whatever solution you choose.
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Old 09-10-2011, 04:50 PM   #17
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Installed Banks headers and exhaust system on 92 MH with Chev 454 with TBI and it made a tremendous improvement in drivability, throttle response, engine ran cooler, and overall a really good investment.
If your budget can take the hit, Banks is the only way to go. The system is designed for RV use. Everything fits, and the final installation looks and is very professional. Go for it!
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:45 AM   #18
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Another alternative would be to replace them with the newer stainles steel alloy cast manifolds. As far as headers you can buy headers that are already coated with a ceramic material that reduces rusting and heat but with headers you will have to replace or rework the rest of your exhaust system.
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Old 09-11-2011, 12:15 PM   #19
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Shorty headers are a bolt on replacement and fit(hopefully) the existing down pipe. They connect at the donut.
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:59 AM   #20
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I had put a set of headers on my old 454 (carburetor) engine. I had to throw them away because they kept burning out spark plug wires- too tight on clearances of plugs and wires (they were "Redmonds", or something like that).

I then put on Banks headers and no more problems.

They are louder in the cockpit than original cast iron exhaust manifolds.

The difference in power was immediately felt. Never noticed much improvement in MPG.

Good luck,
From what I can find, the $33 is for two protectors. Their site is not too easy to navigate.
I even copy and pasted the exact part description and it said: Your search for "Product Number 71991 from Moroso" found no results.. Kinda makes me wonder why this guy got paid for building the web page.

Moroso Spark Plug Boot/Wire Insulators
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:38 AM   #21
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The original cast iron manifolds on many engines are subject to cracking from the thermal cycling and expansion/contraction they're exposed to in operation. Because of their individual tube design, headers are better able to handle this expansion/contraction without fracturing.

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Old 09-13-2011, 08:40 AM   #22
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I went with NAPA ceramic boot plugwires. A little pricey, I think mine were around $120.
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:17 AM   #23
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Shorty headers are a bolt on replacement and fit(hopefully) the existing down pipe. They connect at the donut.
Shorty headers do NOTHING in the lower RPMs, Long tube 1 /5/8 1 3/4 are what the RV folks need for that low end torque....

Exhaust reversion......Anyone know anything about it?
Well just measure the "Banks collector" and tell me what you hafta do to connect it up to your tail pipe which is generally 2 1/2 in size.

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Old 09-13-2011, 11:22 AM   #24
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Shorty headers do NOTHING in the lower RPMs, Long tube 1 /5/8 1 3/4 are what the RV folks need for that low end torque....
Agreed....IF someone is purchasing headers for performance gains. On the other hand, if someone is just looking for a replacement for stock cracked exhaust manifolds with more resistance to cracking, bolt-in shorties might work fine for their purposes.

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Old 09-13-2011, 11:25 AM   #25
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I don't think it is an issue with RV's. That is primarily a concern with high overlap cams. Not something you would find in an RV.
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:27 AM   #26
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As always YMMV. I put a hi-performance cam in my sandrail and it came on strong at about 4k. I then added shorty headers and it now pulls steady from the bottom end up.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:48 PM   #27
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In an RV, anything is better than the iron logs...
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:10 PM   #28
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I'd be afraid of getting the header sound into the cab.
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