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Old 07-20-2014, 10:29 AM   #15
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I did a 1000/1500/rubbing compound/polishing and two coats of wax two months ago, and it's dull again; and never got shiny like a boat hull would get. That made me more inclined to believe the guy, because I spent a good bit of time on the rounded corners and they should have shined like new.

Painting the cap makes sense, because it's bordered by trim all around. If something goes weird, I can re-think the rest of the plan.

Once you remove your decals, are you going to tape the shiny stuff and just paint it? Prep primer to make the paint stick?
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:37 AM   #16
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if your coach was shiny after waxing and got dull in two months, it was the wax perhaps.

after wet sanding there shouldn't be any difference where the decals were.

Doing boats for over 40 years different color gel coats, always can get them looking new.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbo2013 View Post
if your coach was shiny after waxing and got dull in two months, it was the wax perhaps.

after wet sanding there shouldn't be any difference where the decals were.

Doing boats for over 40 years different color gel coats, always can get them looking new.

Well, THERE's the difference. You are a pro, and I'm a DIYer I've never been able to completely get rid of ghost images of decals (usually boat names on the transom).
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Old 07-20-2014, 12:37 PM   #18
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Not a pro at all, just a DIY'er
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Old 07-20-2014, 12:51 PM   #19
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How close are you to the Gulf Coast of Alabama? Maybe we could tag-team one of these beasts and learn a bit.
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Old 07-20-2014, 01:03 PM   #20
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I disagree, that gel coat is thicker than you think.

If you're going to paint it, why not sand it first and see what it looks like.
From what the guy said, caps are made of a different material, and they aren't that thick. I'll have carnal knowledge when I remove the rear view camera and can gauge it. I'll scuff-sand it clean, then hit it with two coats of filler/tie primer, then paint it one or two coats.

All learning will be done on the rear cap; after which I'll make a decision about the sides.
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:42 PM   #21
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Just tried a razor blade on one of decals, pealed real easy, hope it's all like that, not ready to stripe them yet.

But a good test
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:56 PM   #22
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I have what looks to be the same unit. A 2000 HR 40ft. I would love to get rid of the decals. My idea is to take the bottom paint that flares up on the rear and do about three more comes following the same pattern but with straight tops. Then two more horizontal stripes just above, and tow horizontal stripes just below the roof line.
These units have long and low profile and are begging for something to make them look sleek.
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:20 PM   #23
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Just tried a razor blade on one of decals, pealed real easy, hope it's all like that, not ready to stripe them yet.

But a good test
I removed the A from VALENCIA and it peeled right off. The glue residue came off pretty easy with a few squirts of oven cleaner and a rag. Amazing that the OEM color is bright white (under the decal) so going back with bright white instead of a Grady White white will be nice.

Very surprised that sanding and rubbing compound didn't begin to get to a bright white surface. Must be something way different from gel-coat.
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Old 07-21-2014, 01:51 AM   #24
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If your going to all the trouble of removing decals and painting new stripes and stuff, why not just paint the whole side and caps? The nice thing about full body paint is you don't have to worry about buffing out those dull sides every year. Tape off the existing burgundy at the bottom and paint the whole darn thing white or black for that matter. From there you can paint whatever stripes or swirls and when done you only have to wax it instead of dealing with the pita gel coat. I now have my first full body paint coach and would never go back to gelcoat…….ever ever ever !! Your doing most of it anyway, shoot it all!!
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:58 AM   #25
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I had boats for years buffing & waxing gel coat is no big deal, painting the whole coach is way more work and expensive.

I understand what you're saying but not for me,
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Old 07-21-2014, 12:12 PM   #26
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Just finished removing the VALENCIA name off the rear cap. jimbo, that material is nowhere close to being as thick as a boat hull, maybe it's as thick as your dashboard material (which makes sense; why add weight for no benefit?).

Removing the goo isn't fun, but it comes off; leaving a nice, shiny ghost. My plan is to scuff the whole cap, prime twice, roll/tip once or twice, and have a completely-painted cap. Whatever the cost is not the primary concern, because IMO I'll get that money back and more by having a "full body paint" coach.
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Old 07-21-2014, 01:03 PM   #27
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ok, please report back,
I agree with value of full paint, but question that if not sprayed.
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Old 07-21-2014, 03:22 PM   #28
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I've sprayed cars, trucks and boats, but never roll/tipped before. The negatives of spraying a large surface out in the woods far exceed the concerns I have with trying some new way to do things.
Guys that have done it, did a very nice job; mostly because the paints they use are high gloss marine paint without need of a clear coat.

Several hours watching you tube about Roll/Tip are ahead of me before I consider a final solution...but I also wouldn't consider painting until October or so.
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