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Old 07-21-2014, 09:25 PM   #29
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Hi, what a great topic. I've started removing curled decals on our 05 Tiffin Allegro. I too see that the area behind the decals are shinier, maybe whiter too.
Looking at an angle the shape shows the best.
Should an experienced auto body tech be able to mask off the shapes if they have sharp curves?
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:32 PM   #30
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Why have new look like the old design, the shinier surface can all be sanded, compounded to be uniform.

Now start with a blank canvas, feel like you have a new coach after spending the time & $$.

The only thing I'm leaving is the burgundy painted areas.

It looks like we decided on adding two new colors which compliment it.

Waiting for color chips, then after removal of the old decals test out ideas with masking tape & photoshop
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:35 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaboy473 View Post
I've sprayed cars, trucks and boats, but never roll/tipped before. The negatives of spraying a large surface out in the woods far exceed the concerns I have with trying some new way to do things.
Guys that have done it, did a very nice job; mostly because the paints they use are high gloss marine paint without need of a clear coat.

Several hours watching you tube about Roll/Tip are ahead of me before I consider a final solution...but I also wouldn't consider painting until October or so.
I have painted plenty of boats doing the restoration and you have to get pretty darn close to see it if was tipped and rolled. The marine paints such as the epoxy paints lay down pretty darn good.
I will be using more of the marine products on my resto job on our RV..
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:41 PM   #32
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OK, so I'm into Interlux because it's simple and shines well. The question I have is about Priming the coach first.

I intend to prime the coach, and wonder how to prime seams and round doors and windows that have been caulked with silicone? They don't accept paint.

Who knows that answer?
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:47 PM   #33
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I used interlux on a waterline, just sanded with I think 320 or 400 new gel coat sprayed 2 coats, no prime, as far as it sticking to caulk etc

one just try it, or two remove and replace with stuff you know will take paint (my choice)

I like interlux, just limited colors for my job
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:13 AM   #34
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I like interlux, just limited colors for my job
They don't custom-color the stuff, so the White base will be Interlux, and the stripes will be a polyurethane like Rust Oleum that's been custom mixed. This suggestion came from the paint dept at Lowes, but I don't know if they can do a metallic, and I'll want metallic on some of those stripes.

Roll/tip the base, and spray the stripes. A pancake compressor can handle small jobs like the stripe painting.
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:00 AM   #35
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playing with photo shop

What do you think first draft, adding a 2.5" strip on top of the burgundy then two swishes

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Old 07-26-2014, 11:50 AM   #36
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IMHO I would keep the swirls out of the lower dark color. Up higher they could break up the white bulk.

There would be more road rash down low so keep that area easy to repaint.
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Old 07-26-2014, 04:15 PM   #37
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Just repainted my cap this week,
The clear coat was peeling all over.
2 days to prep-- 2 costs of color and 4 coats of clear- I'm too sore to sand and buff
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Old 07-26-2014, 06:22 PM   #38
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Wow, that looks brand new again, Great job.
I know the sore thing too.
What did you use for your clear coats and did you do over the sides of the cap first then the rest of the cap from up on top ?

Looking real good for sure !
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:33 AM   #39
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Wow, that looks brand new again, Great job.
I know the sore thing too.
What did you use for your clear coats and did you do over the sides of the cap first then the rest of the cap from up on top ?

Looking real good for sure !
Thanks for the complement it wasn't an easy job, I got a quote to do the same refinish I did for $1500. I painted a few Cars back in the 70's and 80's but paint products have changed over the years.
I sanded the entire Cap with 320 down to the original color then sprayed Dupont primer/sealer - sanded that down with 400- re-primed and sanded with 800.
Applied 2 coats of Dupont - Nason custom color matched Base Coat- flash time 20 min between coats, next sprayed 4 coats of Dupont Clear (Med) flash time 20 min between coats- 3 med coats and the final coat I laid on heavy .
I only pained the Cap- Masked off the sides and entire front and roof back about 6 ft..
I began spraying the from the top down as I was using a 30 year a DeVilbiss Siphon Gun- didn't want to run low on paint while spraying at such a steep angle. Did the sides and front last in the process.
Its came out smooth as glass so I'm thinking of not wet sanding and buffing, besides 2 days later and I'm still a little sore from climbing up and down so many times. I might add that I also had cooperative weather ( mid 70's and sunshine- Hum 46 % for 3 days.
Paint and material cost $ 118
My Labor- Priceless $$$$$
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:29 AM   #40
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Great job!

What size compressor did you use with your siphon gun?
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Old 07-27-2014, 12:45 PM   #41
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Exclamation Wrap It!

Why not have some fun and wrap the RV. Then your design choices are unlimited.

I just got some ballpark quotes here in Houston, and it looks as though my 34' Winnie could be done for about $4,000 - $4,500.

The supplier has many pix to choose from or you can use your own (if they are high quality). Life span is approximately 8 - 10 years here on the Gulf Coast assuming it is under roof when not being used.
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Old 07-27-2014, 12:50 PM   #42
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Hey Dean,
I've certainty have read quite a few of your post-very knowledgeable.
I used a 30yr old crafstmen 20 gal Compressor that has an adjustable regulator and a water filter I put on many years ago. I sprayed@ 40 psi through 50 ft of hose.
I also repainted and cleared my front grille the same day. This week I'm painting the rear grille and 1 comp door that is a little dinged up. I had paint mixed to match the basement doors.
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