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Old 08-18-2014, 09:54 AM   #99
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contact Jametown dist in RI, they sell stuff for boats and can recommend the right product
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Old 08-18-2014, 12:22 PM   #100
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contact Jametown dist in RI, they sell stuff for boats and can recommend the right product
I'm curious about what's on there now. If I prime before applying a filler, will it stick no matter what was used...or do I need to take that step?
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:47 PM   #101
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Question for you paint/body guys. The front cap, driver's side, has bubbles in the paint. That's the only place.

Some stripper revealed that there's more under the paint than fiberglass, and it's easy to gouge. It isn't glazing putty or Bondo, but I don't know what it is.

Anybody care to comment, and tell me how to fair the surface smooth again?
Rick--- Those look like Air Bubbles
The only thing I can tell you is we used 80 grit on a D/A to smooth the surface prior to build-up with Polyester Primer- 2 coats- sanded with 320 Primed again blocked with 320.
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:09 PM   #102
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Rick--- Those look like Air Bubbles
The only thing I can tell you is we used 80 grit on a D/A to smooth the surface prior to build-up with Polyester Primer- 2 coats- sanded with 320 Primed again blocked with 320.
Hey Chuck. They just might be bubbles from the fiberglass forming, because a number of them are holes in the glass. Most are surface (under the paint) but I stripped the area, sanded with 80 wet/dry, then filled with glazing, sanded, filled again and will sand again in the AM.

Filler Primer next, a few coats with glazing as needed, then final Primer and several coats of topcoat.

It's nice to know that this section is the final one on the driver's side
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:53 PM   #103
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UPDATE on those odd blisters/bubbles on the left front of the box. While stripping them off, noticed about a dozen of them were holes in the fiberglass, and the rest had some degree of cratering into the glass.

Glazing, sand, glazing, sand. let sit overnight before applying filler/primer. Went to do the priming and found a sap-like molasses colored series of dots on the area. They were actually raised off the surface; kind of like 1mm drops of syrup.

Anybody have a clue what these are? They do NOT duplicate what was on there before; new areas. The tape is there to give an idea of size. It's 3/4" masking tape.

I hit a coat of filler/primer after wiping with paint thinner, but anybody see this before?
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Old 09-07-2014, 11:54 AM   #104
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UPDATE on those tiny red blisters.

A guy at a paint/body shop told me that it was glazing compound coming up through the primer. While not understanding how the putty dries hard as a board within minutes, but then turns to a red molasses type of stuff a few days later...I sanded down all the putty (the red stuff), then power ground each little blister, then filled with Bondo, then primed.

They're back. here are photos showing the size of them. This is 15 hours after I completely removed all traces of the syrup with acetone, then applied a single coat of primer. 15 hours overnight, and they are back again.

ANY ideas? Recall that this panel was blistered from the factory paint job, too.

The blue tape in the photos is 3/4" masking tape, for size reference. The photo with streaks is to show that the stuff is a liquid form; easy to smudge.

The blisters nears the dots just came up after the primer was applied. Could there be a correlation between the primer and fiberglass?
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Old 09-07-2014, 12:47 PM   #105
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call jamestown distributers in RI, they deal with this all the time on boats, they will sell you the right stuff.
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Old 09-07-2014, 04:19 PM   #106
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The blisters look a lot like blisters on boat hulls, if I remember correctly, the reaction between salt water and resins create a acid like material and swells,
the liquid is reported to be poison. I agree, call Jamestown, they have a lot of wood and fiberglass experience. Also, I am in process of removing decals and vinyl stripes. I am going to paint on stripes. I have always had real good luck with an adhesive/bumper sticker/weather stripping glue/ and the like with "3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner #08984", generally only at automotive paint supply stores, even though my local NAPA carries it
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Old 09-07-2014, 05:37 PM   #107
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I just used "Vinyl off", used an 8 oz bottle on each side real good stuf
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:09 PM   #108
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I just sent three sets of photos to Jamestown, hoping that their tech dept can come up with a plan.
Thanks for the suggestion, jimbo
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:09 AM   #109
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UPDATE: Jamestown is as confounded as I am about how a liquid is coming out of the fiberglass where there's nothing but dead air on the other side, and the liquid droplets continue to form day after day; most prevalent in sunshine.

After about 20 minutes, the tech suggested that they probably don't have anything if the potential for some sort of hydraulic pressure is being created by sunshine. His suggestion was to cut out the offending section and glass in a new section. Heck, that's a very last, last resort for a DIYer that doesn't work with fiberglass.

MY GUESS is that the section of fiberglass was made using resin that hadn't received enough hardener, and the resin is finding it's way out; even after 8 years. Do any of you guys that's a fiberglass person know whether resin can be red/brown, or whether it could sit for eight years and still be liquid?

I'm experimenting now. Ground out one pinhead droplet, one blister, and one spot that doesn't show any damage. All three cavities showed a brown/red substrate about 2-3mm below the surface. I hit them all with primer this morning, in hopes that either all three will bleed more, or not.

More to come.
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:23 AM   #110
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ok then call "West Systems" they make fiberglass resins etc.

By the way cutting out fiberglass is not that hard, U can find videos online.

I've done it on a boat
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:37 AM   #111
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If you suspect uncured resin, try to put a drop of resin hardener on the suspect liquid.


Joe 1998 Itasca Sunflyer Ford 460
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Old 10-10-2014, 08:10 AM   #112
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If you suspect uncured resin, try to put a drop of resin hardener on the suspect liquid.


Joe 1998 Itasca Sunflyer Ford 460

Would a Bondo hardener work? I have no fiberglass kits at this time.


BTW, Jamestown Distributors sent me a two-part epoxy filler that is the BEST stuff I've ever had the pleasure of using. Mixes up like smooth peanut butter, pot life long enough to get everything done without hurrying, dries like a rock, and you can feather it so minimal sanding. Probably 4 dozen spots have been gouged out and filled.

Trouble is, they keep coming back. When the sun hits the panel, blisters form, and some pinheads of molasses. Sun goes away, and so do the blisters. I'm resigned to painting the panel and living with blisters, but before I do that, I'll try some hardener on the molasses.

IF that proves true, then maybe this will become a spring project. Given these blisters, and then 4 weeks of love bugs, painting is slow...this one final panel will finish us up for the year.
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