Community Forums

Dank1945 · 11-02-2017, 03:17 AM

Hi folks,
Just finished doing the passenger side job, and want to share my experiences.
I started with 2 broken studs, and by the time I removed the manifold I had 5 broken studs.
I cut the broken studs down to 1/4" with my grinder.
Bought 3/16" and 5/16" cobalt bits (several).
Indispensable for the job is the Makita variable speed electric drill (about $300), and you need to go extremely SLOW and apply LOTS of pressure to make any progress and not burn out the drill bits instantly. Center punch the studs the best you can. I was lucky enough to be able to borrow this drill so I didn't have to buy it, but otherwise it would be absolutely necessary (or a similar drill, which I couldn't find). The beauty of this drill is the low profile at the chuck, to be able to work in the space available. It was also necessary to apply lots of force on it by leveraging the handle of a large hammer on the chassis, against the back of the drill.
As it was not possible for me to achieve a perfect center on the old studs, I had to slot the holes in the appropriate direction on a friend's milling machine.
We also had to drill the studs out of the manifold/exhaust holes, which I had to cut in order to remove the manifold.
Everything went together well, with anti seize grease everywhere, at 18 ft/lbs of torque.
Would I do it again? I guess so, but only when absolutely necessary. It took me about 25 hours on my knees (with pads), over about 2 weeks to completely the job. Next time I figure I could do it in 10 hours.
Very hard job, and I have tackled complete car engine rebuilds before. What makes it worse is the uncomfortable position you have to hold for hours on end.
Cheers

Dank1945 · 11-02-2017, 03:26 AM

Sorry about the pics being upside down.

ThePowells · 11-02-2017, 03:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dank1945

Sorry about the pics being upside down.

They were upside down?

Glad you persevered and was able to get it done.

Waiter21 · 11-02-2017, 05:51 AM

URGH... This is on my project list for next spring.... Thanks for the writeup.. It looks like you used bolts rather than studs. Any special bolt??

I've been looking on the Ford Enthusiast forum on this subject. We have a lot more room to work that the poor guys with a pickup truck...

Also they mention other methods that have various success, using an extractor tool, welding a nut to the existing stud, etc...

vettenuts · 11-02-2017, 06:06 AM

I replaced the studs on my Workhorse with ARP stainless studs to hopefully eliminate future issues.

chboone · 11-02-2017, 11:51 PM

You can also try left hand drill bits to spin the broken stud out if it's not frozen in the hole. When I installed the Banks headers had 4 studs on each side broken. Lucky they turned out easy.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_91nyey3mf4_e

https://www.harborfreight.com/left-h...-pc-61686.html

funjnt · 11-03-2017, 04:47 AM

I either cut or use a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts or studs off, remove the manifold. Then take an oxy torch and heat the head around the bolt, not tot bolt or stud. Then, have a can of blaster in the fridge or freezer and spray the bolt, cooling it and contracting it..... Use a good pair of vice grips or stud puller to grab onto the remaining stud and gently loosen.

If it doesn't loosen clean the stud and weld a bolt head to the stud and repeat above.

70ChevelleSS · 11-03-2017, 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funjnt

...If it doesn't loosen clean the stud and weld a bolt head to the stud and repeat above.

This method seems to work the best. Make sure to get the stud and nut red hot while welding. The heat will break the stud loose and it will usually come right out with little effort.

Dank1945 · 11-03-2017, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Waiter21

URGH... This is on my project list for next spring.... Thanks for the writeup.. It looks like you used bolts rather than studs. Any special bolt??

I've been looking on the Ford Enthusiast forum on this subject. We have a lot more room to work that the poor guys with a pickup truck...

Also they mention other methods that have various success, using an extractor tool, welding a nut to the existing stud, etc...

The concept of welding a nut is OK, but when the studs are already half corroded, I dont think it will work to remove studs that are literally welded to the aluminum head as in my case. In the F53, the sstuds were stainless.
I used regular 8.8 hardness bolts from tractor supply. I hope there wont be a next time.

Yes, the pics are upside down, I will try to turn them over.