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Old 02-09-2014, 07:21 PM   #29
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The second trick is to figure out what the person intended to get for the coach, and then tempt them with an offer that is just slightly less. You may be able to get an extra 1 % off the intended price.
How do you determine what the owner wants?

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Last trick is to characterize your offer stating this is what the coach is worth to me. That can take some of the sting out of what could be perceived as an insult. Basically you are telling the seller that having nothing to do with what the coach is worth, if they are interested in selling the coach right at that moment, accepting your offer would make it happen. One key is if you do this, you have to be willing to walk. You make one offer based on what you are willing to pay and stick with it. No long drawn out games. Wasting people's time is more of an insult than a low price.
I like this approach. Makes sense.
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:24 PM   #30
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Is this offer to be made in person, or over the phone? IMHO, offers made in person are much more effective, and can be made after you've seen it first hand? Made over the phone, seems like you're making a giant leap of faith. Some get away with it, but I'm way to leery. Call it paranoid if you like? If I can't see it, touch it, breath it, I wouldn't even consider making an offer on it...
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:35 PM   #31
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If looking at 10 year old (or older) coaches, I consider any guide to be pretty much worthless? At this age, it's about condition.
Totally agree.

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If you want a good deal, you're going to have to know the coach you're looking for as well or better than anyone. This will be nearly impossible until you narrow your list of choices down to one or 2, maybe 3 at the most, on a make, model, required options basis! By time you've gathered this much info, you'll have a pretty good feel for what they're going for. A low offer can be made for one barely meeting your requirements, and you can reach a little for that "dream" coach?
I research every coach I'm considering. But I'm still relatively new and have never owned a coach before. Every time I begin the process I discover something I didn't know before. Things like which engines to avoid or at least check very carefully. My own experience has proven how important that is. The Ford F250 I purchased new in 2005 came with the trouble prone 6.0 diesel. I didn't know the 6.0 had a history. It's been an expensive lesson.
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:42 PM   #32
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Another insisted that he would make no allowance for new tires because his are like new and with no cracks, so being 10 years old didn't matter.


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I offered another dealer 10% below NADA low retail for a nice 2003 Windsor if they replaced the 2002 tires and unknown age house batteries, and they wouldn't even counter.
I offered a dealer average retail on a coach that was advertised for NADA retail plus $20,000. They said no way. 3 months later it was advertised for average retail. By then I wasn't interested.

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I'm not willing to spend hundreds of more hours shopping. I'll either buy something soon, or keep our TT another year. If I spend a grand or two too much, I can live with it.
We're almost in the same boat. But my desire for a motorhome still burns.

Good Luck in your search.
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:50 PM   #33
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Get the negotiations out of the way before the inspections. The offer is made contingent upon not finding anything wrong with the unit.
That's been my thinking on the last few we've looked at. Makes sense, save time and reduces fuel costs.
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:07 PM   #34
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If you have decided on a specific rig, search on IRV2 for everything you can find on it and other sites too. Unfortunately, even after doing all the research, personal experience will always trump everything else. And you can't get that until you jump in.

On a specific rig or make (year, model) you should find the pros and cons in your research. Also take these with a grain of salt and look for trends. Some people will complain about anything and everything. Search for info on the engine if you have concerns.

Diesels in MHs have been really solid for many years as far as I know. I went from a 36' gasser to a 39' diesel and it can take me anywhere I want to go. I do have to plan ahead as much as possible because of the length and prefer truck stops for fill ups as they are so much easier to navigate.

If you have not had a larger MH before, also check with your state regarding licensing to drive it. In Texas you don't need a class B license until you go over 26000# GVWR. My rig is exactly 26000# GVWR and DW and I can drive it on our class C (regular auto) licenses. This may not seem an issue unless you ever need to use your insurance due to an accident and your ins. co. discovers you were driving illegally. They may refuse to pay. JMHO.

John
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:11 PM   #35
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So for those of you who have actually purchased at or below low retail, what's your secret?

I read of many people paying less than NADA wholesale, discovered that 73% of the Average Retail shown in the online NADA listing is about optimum. Wholesale varies, is about 76% of NADA, as I recall.
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Old 02-09-2014, 11:59 PM   #36
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If looking at 10 year old (or older) coaches, I consider any guide to be pretty much worthless? At this age, it's about condition. One coach could be worth twice as much as the next.
X 2 !

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Old 02-10-2014, 06:13 AM   #37
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Make That Offer

Gary,

Low NADA less tire allowance is a good opening, IMO. I expect to settle between low and average retail (online NADA, not hardcopy NADA). Check it out very carefully and adjust for issues when you reach a price. There is a checklist in the downloads section of irv2 that is a great place to start. In addition to the drive train, pay special attention to expensive items - furnaces, ACs (roof and dash), generator, fridge (if it's Norcold will you change it out or upgrade it to an Amish cooling unit?) and water heater.

Could you wait and dig for a great deal? Sure, as you read in this forum. Or you could get a reasonable deal now, and enjoy it for an extra year or two and save all that search time. I'll never include shopping as a hobby, but many people enjoy the chase. At my age I'll take the extra years of enjoyment instead of saving a few grand.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:48 AM   #38
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A great source to determine pricing for that special coach you're looking for that I've used in the past is Ebay. When plugging in your search parameters (hopefully narrowed as much as possible) go down to "Show Only" and check "closed listings". This will result in listings that show actual sales, as well as listings that didn't sell? Those prices are the basis for some actual useful info! Other prices you see commonly (here and elsewhere) can come straight out of fantasy land.... -Al
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:37 PM   #39
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How do you determine what the owner wants?
I'll give you an example. I sold a sailboat last year. I listed it for $1800.00. If you look at the 1800 number, its pretty easy to tell that I expected to get 1500 for it. As it turned out, I took 1350 for it. 150 bucks was not going to break me, so I gave in (especially since that was more than I paid for it)

When you look at the numbers that people list, always assume they intend to negotiate. Look for a nice round even number close to what they are asking. There are natural break points that our brains gravitate towards, so you assume that is the intended selling price. If someone is asking 159,000 for a unit, you can assume the 9000 is just a number tagged there to make it look good. It is an art, but it is really based on what the going price is. Basically, if 159,000 is a really good deal, you offer 155,000. If it is a real average deal, you offer 150,000. If the 159,000 is way to high, you don't waste your time looking.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:16 AM   #40
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If you have not had a larger MH before, also check with your state regarding licensing to drive it. In Texas you don't need a class B license until you go over 26000# GVWR. My rig is exactly 26000# GVWR and DW and I can drive it on our class C (regular auto) licenses. This may not seem an issue unless you ever need to use your insurance due to an accident and your ins. co. discovers you were driving illegally. They may refuse to pay. JMHO.

John
I wouldn't be concerned about the insurance company. If they can deny coverage for not have the proper endorsement on a license, they can deny for a bunch of stuff, like drunk driving, driving on tires that are too old, driving without chains in the snow country, etc., etc., etc.. By the way, my background for 40 years is in insurance and risk management. I'm pretty sure an insurance company is unable to deny coverage for anything other than falsifying an application for coverage.

As to the weight restriction, there's a current thread on the RV Forum regarding weight and length limitations in California. My understanding of the California law is that a standard license is OK for a HOUSECAR, California for motorhome, up to 40 long. More than 40 feet and you need an endorsement. One of the posters feels the 26,000 lb limitation also applies. If so, I guess I'll need to pay the DMV a visit. But I honestly don't think the other poster is reading the law correctly.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:27 AM   #41
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Here is the latest booklet on RVs and licenses for CA
https://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/dl648/dl648toc.htm
Just in case people were wanting some light reading ......
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:24 AM   #42
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I am new to MH's just purchased a 03 Georgie Boy Chevy workhorse w/41000 miles. garage kept in Mesa Arizona...Looked it up on NADA did the car fax and we met at 32thousand...He was happy as well as I...Nervous yet, looking forward to my new experience as well as retirement in 2015...Lots to learn as a retiring teacher...any input is warranted from my new forum...
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