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Old 06-07-2015, 08:09 PM   #43
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I did my roof today too. I used about half a cup of liquid laundry detergent and half cup of bleach in 3-4 gallons of warm water. Scrubbed the major stuff off with a stiff brush and finished the rest of the staining with a Magic Eraser. The Eraser does an amazing job! For the most part it looks as good as new. I have some re caulking to do then another quick wash and finally a good wax job.

How far does a tube of Dicor go? I want to do the seams along the rain gutters on a 35 foot coach along with a few minor touch ups on the rest of the roof.




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Old 06-07-2015, 10:11 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TC Wndsr View Post
I did my roof today too. I used about half a cup of liquid laundry detergent and half cup of bleach in 3-4 gallons of warm water. Scrubbed the major stuff off with a stiff brush and finished the rest of the staining with a Magic Eraser. The Eraser does an amazing job! For the most part it looks as good as new. I have some re caulking to do then another quick wash and finally a good wax job.

How far does a tube of Dicor go? I want to do the seams along the rain gutters on a 35 foot coach along with a few minor touch ups on the rest of the roof.




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I have done both end caps with one tube, so I would think you would at least need 2 tubes, if there is some remaining just tape the end of the plastic tip and save for later
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:31 PM   #45
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Since this small project is technically sealing the roof. Thought I would add a quick repair job. On our last trip out I had a piece of eternabond tape come off on the front cap. It appeared to be a full failure of the bond to the roof. So a little gorilla tape to finish out the trip then ordering supplies to possibly replace the complete tape on the cap. I was really not ready to replace everything and most appears to be holding up for now.
The cap appeared to be almost an after thought in the application as many short pieces most likely the scraps were used to finish up.
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Three pieces in this half alone.
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As you can see the adhesive failed in this area completely. But it appears to be better adhered further down. So for now I am just going to repair the one area. More as a trial run to see what the complete roof might be like.
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My first thought was to just clean well, prime and put new tape down. But quickly gave up on that. The existing caulk had also failed. I would much rather have both the caulk and eternabond functional just in case. Water in the ceiling and walls will do much damage quickly. There seemed to be 2 points of failure that allowed some water and air under the tape. First was a large drip of existing caulk and the proximity to the large caulk bump at the end. Also appears the surface may not have been properly cleaned before application of the tape. In the image below I removed the caulk to prepare for adding Dicor self leveling.
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And caulk added , now just wait for caulk to dry and level out.
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Once it dries I will continue cleaning with the Eternabond cleaner, then prime with Eternabond Primer then add tape.


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Old 07-03-2015, 09:09 AM   #46
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After waxing our roof the first time with a automotive paste wax, I decided to look into something else. I ended up with Optimum spray wax... you can find it on the web at an auto detailer website. It's an easy spray on and wipe... lasts about 6 months, but since it's pretty easy to do, not a big deal getting up there, giving it a good wash and then respraying.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:19 PM   #47
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Cleaning my roof today. What a mess with baked on bird droppings from my winter in FL. The pros down there use a pressure washer on the roof so I thought I would give it a try with my 5 hp 2200 psi washer. Has a narrow fan tip and I worked it in about 3" wide strips going slow but backing off to a 6" fan moving quickly over the sealant. After about 15 minutes on big open areas, I thought I would give my rotary attachment a try ($60 Briggs and Stratton unit from HD). Wow. I can now clean 95% of the roof with double passes in less than a half an hour. I am not looking for a pristine roof, after all it is just a ROOF. Some minor bird and pitch stains left, but probably got 99% of the ones that were firmly adhered (wouldn't come off with just a blast of the hose).

Now, being old and lazy, I will seal it with something fairly good and easy, so I think I will try ZEP applied with a sponge mop. Several coats.

In case anyone searches for pressure washing a fiberglass roof, I will post this as a new thread also.

https://youtu.be/ayODxRly22k
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:24 PM   #48
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I'll wash it at the beginning of the year & after that Wash Wax All about once a month. Takes about 20 minutes.
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:18 PM   #49
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The fiberglass roof on my 2005 Winnie Adventurer was badly streaking the sides of my coach and the rounded sides of the roof that go down to the side rails had lost their clear coat and the paint was badly oxidized(typical Winnebago problem on models 2007 and older). I sanded down the rounded side areas to remove most of the paint and remaining clear coat (coach has full body paint). I cleaned the whole roof area with a good auto wash soap and then twice with a heavy mixture of TSP and a scrub brush. After a good drying time I painted the whole roof area with a 10 year warrantee elastomeric paint with a good UV protection rating. The mnf. recommends 2 coats but I did 3 coats just to be thorough. It turned out nice and it can be painted over on the roof sides to match the rest of the coach body paint color. The elastomeric paint mnf. states that it has great UV protection, lowers the coaches interior temp and helps in sound deadening. It also has a 10 year warranty. I bought it at a company called Menards up here in Minnesota and is a similar place to Home Depot. The brand name is SEALBEST. They have a nice website at WWW.sealbest.com Use the kind that is made for fiberglass roofs. I went with this brand as I had read about its use with other RVers that have used it for a lot of years with good results. Best of luck with whatever way you go.
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