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Old 08-25-2016, 03:21 PM   #1
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Fiberglass Roof leaking

I've got a 96 Itasca Suncruiser 34RQ. I took it in for an estimate on getting the front cap at roof, the sewer pipe and refrigerator vent (if thats what you call it) resealed as the original sealant is cracking and peeling up. They came back and said the rear cap on roof needs it too even though it was done 4 yrs ago (they're the ones that did the work back then).

My question is how long should a seal job last? I know that all they did 4 yrs ago was clean it and apply self leveling calk sealant over what was there. For the rear last time they charged me I think only 1 hr labor and materials ($150 or less that I remember). This estimate for the whole roof is 6 hrs labor and materials totaling $864 ($150 in materials).

I'm going to call them back and see if they're going to scrape off the old and then seal it up or like before, just put sealant over what's already there.

How hard is it to scrape off old calk sealant? Or is it better to apply the new over the old?


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Old 08-25-2016, 03:32 PM   #2
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The sealant will have to be cleaned but unless it is loose, it does not have to be removed. Removing it might be better but it is not necessary. I think 6 hours is exorbitant unless there is structural issues that need to be taken care of. Most roofs I clean and reseal is done in 2 hours. Some take longer but I think 2-3 hours for yours would be fair.

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Old 08-25-2016, 05:53 PM   #3
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There is no expected length for a "seal job". If the seams are all structurally tight they last indefinitely, but a seam that "works" readily can loosen the best caulking job in a sort time. Traditional wisdom is to inspect every seam & joint yearly and repair as needed. Loose dirt and scale needs to be scrubbed off, but old caulk isn't removed unless it is loose. Removing it is typically a time consuming job, so it could get expensive.

Even a lot of caulk repair shouldn't take more than a couple hours and 2-3 tubes of lap sealant, so the estimate they gave you is a rip-off.
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:46 PM   #4
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I'm going to talk to them to see exactly what they will be doing. Whether they are scraping off all the old and installing all new or just cleaning and just removing what is peeling up and then re-seal. When they said a complete roof re-seal I took that to include both front and rear caps, the sewer pipe, refrigerator vent, 2 air conditioner's, and 2 power vents. A new skylight was installed 2 yrs ago and still looks good.
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:52 PM   #5
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I would use Eternabond tape on the front and rear caps and you won't have to worry about them for many years. Easy clean and tape .
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:54 PM   #6
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If a fiberglass roof and just sealing the fittings and joints then a roll of eternabond for about $100.00 and a can of acetone for another $10.00 and some scraping you will he able to fix it yourself and have stuff left over
And the job will last the life of the rv and be better quality than the person doing the work.

Skill set required is minimal as there are plenty of u tube videos and just a putty knife to scrape with some rags gloves and scissors are about all you need for tools.

You can do a chappy job in an hour or so and do everything real well over a couple of days of morning tinkering before it gets hot.
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:57 PM   #7
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Newmar says to check all sealants every 6 months, so I did when we had our two DSDP's. Even so I found areas that needed touching up everytime I went up there.
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:23 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Newmar says to check all sealants every 6 months, so I did when we had our two DSDP's. Even so I found areas that needed touching up everytime I went up there.

X2 on the twice a year. I did some patching in the spring ... And was back in the roof today (as it turns out). Enough new cracks and suspicious areas that I used an entire tube of self leveling sealant.
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:34 PM   #9
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I too have a fiberglass roof and clean and inspect twice a year. I have eternabond both front and rear caps and other areas than painted over and have never had an issue... Truthfully, I would bet that gorilla tape would have done the same but neither here nor there!!
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:57 PM   #10
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Well Gang,
I haven't had to do much seal maintenance on our present coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon, with the exception of the first 3'-4' of roof-to-gutter seam, on both sides. That's another story. Anyway, on our last coach, a '99 Fleetwood Bounder 34V with the F-53 chassis and V-10, I had to do a lot of resealing on that rubber roof and components.

I was not going to be satisfied with putting new sealant on top of any old stuff so, when it came time for any vent, cap seal, shower sun light etc., I simply used an industrial Milwaukee Heat gun and that would raise the temp of all that old sealant in hurry and, it would scrape right off. Then, when all the bulk was gone, I'd hit it with some alcohol to make sure the surfaces were dead clean.

Then came the Dicor, self leveling sealant. That stuff was outstanding. I never, ever had any leaks or issues in using that process. Removing all the old sealant, would add maybe 10 minutes to each vent etc. but, I was and am, in no hurry to do what it takes to protect the coach from encroaching water.

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