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Old 11-15-2018, 06:41 PM   #1
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Fiberglass to steel adhesive

Looking to reattach the front engine compartment bracket to the fiberglass shell. Tried Gorilla glue and an epoxy. Gorilla glue held on the fiberglass only. Epoxy held on steel only. Preferably something I can get in the Houston area.Click image for larger version

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Old 11-15-2018, 06:53 PM   #2
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I ran into the same issue this summer. I got a few answersbut haven't attempted the repair.
I'll see if I can get the link to work
Fiberglass help needed southern New Mexico
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Old 11-15-2018, 06:56 PM   #3
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Have the same problem, my hood hinges separate from fiberglass ( no screws )
Newmar suggestion was two part epoxy from 3m or this stuff
Plexus 300
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:07 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by tvp View Post
Have the same problem, my hood hinges separate from fiberglass ( no screws )
Newmar suggestion was two part epoxy from 3m or this stuff
Plexus 300
Another challenge will be to remove the epoxy from the steel. Suggestions appreciated.
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:11 PM   #5
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I used a small grinder and paint scraper, then cleaned with paint thinner

They should have fiberglass’s a wood block to bond to hood , then wrap some fiberglass mat and the use wood screws
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:12 PM   #6
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I had same problem on a 2004 Sea Breeze easy fix drill bit four stainless steel screws no more problems both sides match epoxy just won’t set up.
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:31 PM   #7
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Marine West Epoxy seems to work in lots of applications.
They have several different products.
Their manual helps you pick the right product.
Any good Marine outlet will also help select the right product.

Seems to stick to anything except wax and their release agent.
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:47 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ricktig View Post
Looking to reattach the front engine compartment bracket to the fiberglass shell. Tried Gorilla glue and an epoxy. Gorilla glue held on the fiberglass only. Epoxy held on steel only. Preferably something I can get in the Houston area.Attachment 226156
rick,
When I zoom in on your picture, it appears that there's been ZERO prep of the steel for the adhesive. That is if the part that is up, in the picture is the part that is to be glued. If so, you need to get in there with some seriously aggressive sand paper, as in 60 grit and rough up/grind up every square inch of metal surface that is to be glued to the fiberglass. Then, the same exact thing needs to be done to the fiberglass. The reason your part failed the adhesive in the first place is because of poor prep while being assembled.

I've had two failed glue joints on our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD. Both in the front section. The first one I was able to really do a bang-up job on prepping for whatever adhesive I chose at the time. At that time, I chose to use a product called "Marine Tex". It's a two part system and, it's been used in the Marine world for eons of time and has a zillion benefits.

That fix took place about 3+ years ago and is still like a rock. The latest failure is a head light bracket. This was much harder to prep the fiberglass in this case due to it's location. I removed the headlight bracket and prepped in the same manor as my other fix. I also drilled holes in the metal to act as fasteners by the adhesive oozing through them. That works slick.

This time I chose Gorilla Construction Adhesive. I was leery at first but, I figured I'd give it a shot. Well, that fix is now about 8 months old and it too, is like a rock. I'd have to damage the fiberglass if I ever wanted to remove that headlight bracket. But, my point here is, there are many adhesives that will work in this application. But, PREP is the name of the game here. A good prep job is the key to a great outcome. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:53 PM   #9
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There are automotive adhesives for this, the Corvette uses them and once glued in place, you break the fiberglass to remove. The front inner fender comes to mind.
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:54 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
rick,
When I zoom in on your picture, it appears that there's been ZERO prep of the steel for the adhesive. That is if the part that is up, in the picture is the part that is to be glued. If so, you need to get in there with some seriously aggressive sand paper, as in 60 grit and rough up/grind up every square inch of metal surface that is to be glued to the fiberglass. Then, the same exact thing needs to be done to the fiberglass. The reason your part failed the adhesive in the first place is because of poor prep while being assembled.

I've had two failed glue joints on our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD. Both in the front section. The first one I was able to really do a bang-up job on prepping for whatever adhesive I chose at the time. At that time, I chose to use a product called "Marine Tex". It's a two part system and, it's been used in the Marine world for eons of time and has a zillion benefits.

That fix took place about 3+ years ago and is still like a rock. The latest failure is a head light bracket. This was much harder to prep the fiberglass in this case due to it's location. I removed the headlight bracket and prepped in the same manor as my other fix. I also drilled holes in the metal to act as fasteners by the adhesive oozing through them. That works slick.

This time I chose Gorilla Construction Adhesive. I was leery at first but, I figured I'd give it a shot. Well, that fix is now about 8 months old and it too, is like a rock. I'd have to damage the fiberglass if I ever wanted to remove that headlight bracket. But, my point here is, there are many adhesives that will work in this application. But, PREP is the name of the game here. A good prep job is the key to a great outcome. Good luck.
Scott
Definitely challenged on the prep. Appreciate the suggestion on that as well as adhesive to use. Thanks!
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:56 PM   #11
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Seams like the real Good epoxy is two part and require a special gun to release both at same time , the industrial epoxy is not available at your Lowe’s or Home Depot
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:06 PM   #12
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I used 3M 5200 marine adhesive three years ago to fix the brackets on my Winnie’s hood. This fix has held up better than the original install did! The 3M 5200 is used in the boating industry to permanently install various marine fittings to boat decks. It is used in locations that get wet and are subject to vibrations, just like the brackets under my hood. The only downside is it takes 7 days to completely cure.

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Old 11-15-2018, 10:12 PM   #13
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You may want to give JB Weld a try
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Old 11-16-2018, 12:00 AM   #14
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Will agree wire Fire Up:

Have used Mari e Tex to adhear fiberglass to metal on car for over 20 years.

Marine Tex even survived an accident. The fiberglass cracked, but the Marine Tex held fast where it was glued to a metal fender. Would strongly recommend
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