Fix for Atwood Level Legs Control Panel failure

[IRV247]

Atwood no longer sells or supports the old Level Legs Control Panel but you can replace the Control Panel with a wireless manual control box available from GAMA Electronics, Inc. GAMA Electronics, Inc - Custom Electronic Controls & Assemblies Use their RF Receiver Model # RF340-4PR-TO (this will operate 4 jacks with a wireless key fob) and it is only $135.00. If your system has an air dump feature you can also get a wireless key fob to control "dump and fill" for your air bag suspension system. Part #RF12V-2-ASL RF $59.95

[gatorcq]

How about the specific information. I reviewed the site and did NOT find anything very specific.
Now I have look at doing something with a 12 channel remote system I pick up from EBay. But have not got around to implementing it.

[navigator336]

Looks like it will work but it won't have many of the convenience and safety features of the original controller. It won't be able to auto level. The original controller will level by moving two jacks simultaneously to prevent twisting the frame. With the GAMA controller you will have to operate two switches manually and go through the thought process of which two you should be actuating to achieve level. There won't be any current sensing for touch down on the individual jacks and you will have to listen for the jack up ratcheting to stop apply power to each jack as it retracts.

You can still get the original controller repaired. There's a place in Canada that does it. Just search by the Atwood part number and the web site will come up. What usually goes bad in the controller is one or more NEC relays (there are four of them). They are obsolete, but still available from China. I bought some a couple of years ago in case mine ever go bad. I paid about $8 each and got them in two weeks.

[navigator336]

Here is the relay part number and where I bought them from:

NEC relay P/N EN2-B1N1S Make sure it is the DIP 8 package and not the DIP10 package which is more readily available. The DIP 10 package is P/N EN2-B1N1ST.
I got them from www.zhw-ic.com

[navigator336]

Here is the relay part number and where I bought them from:

NEC relay P/N EN2-B1N1S Make sure it is the DIP 8 package and not the DIP10 package which is more readily available. The DIP 10 package is P/N EN2-B1N1ST.
I got them from ZHW HIGH-TECH (HK) company limited _ZHW HIGH-TECH (HK) Company Limited

[IRV247]

Originally Posted by gatorcq

How about the specific information. I reviewed the site and did NOT find anything very specific.
Now I have look at doing something with a 12 channel remote system I pick up from EBay. But have not got around to implementing it.

You can go to GAMA's site and click on the part numbers RF340-4PR-TO. Scroll down to just above the price and click on "Instruction Manual" for more information.

[IRV247]

Originally Posted by navigator336

Looks like it will work but it won't have many of the convenience and safety features of the original controller. It won't be able to auto level. The original controller will level by moving two jacks simultaneously to prevent twisting the frame. With the GAMA controller you will have to operate two switches manually and go through the thought process of which two you should be actuating to achieve level. There won't be any current sensing for touch down on the individual jacks and you will have to listen for the jack up ratcheting to stop apply power to each jack as it retracts.

You can still get the original controller repaired. There's a place in Canada that does it. Just search by the Atwood part number and the web site will come up. What usually goes bad in the controller is one or more NEC relays (there are four of them). They are obsolete, but still available from China. I bought some a couple of years ago in case mine ever go bad. I paid about $8 each and got them in two weeks.

Yes, I stated it was a manual controller in my post. That keeps it simple and more reliable. Here is the procedure I use to level my coach:
1. Lower all 4 jacks until they contact the ground.
2. Press both front jacks "UP" buttons together to raise the front of the coach (no twisting of the frame).
3. Press both rear jacks "UP" buttons together to raise the rear of the coach to level front to rear (no twisting of the frame).
4. Now level the side that is low by pressing both the front and rear jacks "UP" buttons together on the low side until the coach is level (again no twisting of the frame).
5. Now dump the air bags to take the weight off the tires (your tires will last years longer if you always store your coach with the weight off the tires (prevents Zipper blow outs caused by storing your coach with it's weight on the tires for long periods of time). This procedure reduces the run time of your jacks when raising the coach because it does not have to raise the coach from the full "dumped air bags position".

[IRV247]

Originally Posted by navigator336

Here is the relay part number and where I bought them from:

NEC relay P/N EN2-B1N1S Make sure it is the DIP 8 package and not the DIP10 package which is more readily available. The DIP 10 package is P/N EN2-B1N1ST.
I got them from ZHW HIGH-TECH (HK) company limited _ZHW HIGH-TECH (HK) Company Limited

Thanks for this information but when I click on the link ZHW HIGH-TECH (HK) company limited _ZHW HIGH-TECH (HK) Company Limited Google pops up with a warning that the site contains malware?

[IRV247]

Originally Posted by navigator336

Looks like it will work but it won't have many of the convenience and safety features of the original controller. It won't be able to auto level. The original controller will level by moving two jacks simultaneously to prevent twisting the frame. With the GAMA controller you will have to operate two switches manually and go through the thought process of which two you should be actuating to achieve level. There won't be any current sensing for touch down on the individual jacks and you will have to listen for the jack up ratcheting to stop apply power to each jack as it retracts.

You can still get the original controller repaired. There's a place in Canada that does it. Just search by the Atwood part number and the web site will come up. What usually goes bad in the controller is one or more NEC relays (there are four of them). They are obsolete, but still available from China. I bought some a couple of years ago in case mine ever go bad. I paid about $8 each and got them in two weeks.

Unable to come up with the repair location for the Control Boards in Canada. Do you have the name of the company, phone number or website address? Would really appreciate any additional information you can provide. Thank you.

[navigator336]

I run Bitdefender for malware protection and it indicates the site is safe (ZHW HIGH-TECH (HK) company limited _ZHW HIGH-TECH (HK) Company Limited). I can send you the sales person's email if you want.

[navigator336]

You can also try this link. IC Suppliers and manufacturers - SeekIC.com

[Powerstroke2000]

Originally Posted by gatorcq

How about the specific information. I reviewed the site and did NOT find anything very specific.
Now I have look at doing something with a 12 channel remote system I pick up from EBay. But have not got around to implementing it.

Would be nice to hear about what you eventually chose with regard to a remote system? As you say, that previous link didn't give me anything specific either, as to which would be best for our particular situation? Also, is it just a 'plug & play' type of system, or is there intricate wiring that's needed? How easy to hook up etc.

[Craig36]

Question:

Is it always the electronics that go intermittant or could it be the touchpads?

[Domo]

Originally Posted by Craig36

Question:

Is it always the electronics that go intermittant or could it be the touchpads?

I will always suspect the crimp-on connections, power and ground when anything on my MH has trouble.

When/if my Atwood controller goes out I'm planning on old-school manual switches (Power (on-off), Direction (mom on - off - mom on), Jack (mom on)) and an ammeter so I can tell when I've hit the ground or end/top of the screw before it clutches.

I'm guessing that will get me by until I learn how to program an arduino or similar...