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Old 09-07-2013, 12:18 PM   #1
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Float Chargers

Did search on Float vs Trickle chargers for down time on chassis batteries. Seems that float charger has advantage over trickle in that they automatically shut off where a trickle CAN over period of long use damage batteries. Both will reguire AC plug which I could rig up with out to much problem. However there is another device Trik-L-Start that pulls charge from house batteries and without a AC connection. Anyone use any of these devices or have opinions on best all-round for keeping chassis batteries up? Trik-L-Start seems like a gret idea (thanks Jim) but concerned that it might qualify more work on Freedom 458.

Bill
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:51 PM   #2
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If one is parked indoor/ under cover, enough said. If one is exposed to the sky then a roof solar panel will function just fine......
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:53 PM   #3
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You are correct, the float charger is newer technology and better for the batteries. The Trik-L-Start will take energy from one set of batteries to maintain the other, but what is going to maintain the donating batteries? This works best if you have a solar panel to keep the one set charged so you can then keep the others up too. To use the Trik-L-Start set up without shore power or solar will result in all batteries depleted.
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:56 PM   #4
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solor

how much solor panals do you need to keep batterys up when stored
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:02 PM   #5
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how much solor panals do you need to keep batterys up when stored
If you're in the south, you could get by with 15 watts. Up north (of Kentucky) I'd want 30 watts.
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:14 PM   #6
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You are correct, the float charger is newer technology and better for the batteries. The Trik-L-Start will take energy from one set of batteries to maintain the other, but what is going to maintain the donating batteries? This works best if you have a solar panel to keep the one set charged so you can then keep the others up too. To use the Trik-L-Start set up without shore power or solar will result in all batteries depleted.
Currently MH is only used a few times a year and is under cover, but often I find it does not have the amperage to start engine if not cranked often (10-14 days). Shore power would not be a problem, but I do not want to cause damage to Xantrex IF Trik-L-Start would perhaps do that. Perhaps a float charger is the answer. b
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:15 PM   #7
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We use a Battery Tender (brand name) with dual connections, we clip One set to front chassis battery & other set to house front battery. Since the batteries are all connected the charge In sequence, so all batteries charge. We have been using this system For 4 years now & have never had a problem. It 1st goes to conditioning the batteries, then to charge , then to float mode to keep the batteries In good shape. Have not bought batteries In 5 years. It is so easy to hook up system I was able to do it myself when my husband was laid up with a broken femer. It does require an AC connection
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:41 PM   #8
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Currently MH is only used a few times a year and is under cover, but often I find it does not have the amperage to start engine if not cranked often (10-14 days). Shore power would not be a problem, but I do not want to cause damage to Xantrex IF Trik-L-Start would perhaps do that. Perhaps a float charger is the answer. b
Yes, float charger with shore power hooked to chassis batteries will keep them charged. You might think about true battery disconnects. The factory installed ones usually still have some parasitic draw, even when 'disconnected.' I have a couple of these on my house batteries: Knife-Blade Switches - Wirthco Engineering, Inc.
It sits for months in storage with no solar or shore power and holds fine.
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:56 PM   #9
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We use a Battery Tender (brand name) with dual connections, we clip One set to front chassis battery & other set to house front battery. Since the batteries are all connected the charge In sequence, so all batteries charge. We have been using this system For 4 years now & have never had a problem. It 1st goes to conditioning the batteries, then to charge , then to float mode to keep the batteries In good shape. Have not bought batteries In 5 years. It is so easy to hook up system I was able to do it myself when my husband was laid up with a broken femer. It does require an AC connection
When you use this system, do you turn your converter/inverter (Xantrex) off?
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Old 09-07-2013, 02:01 PM   #10
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Yes, float charger with shore power hooked to chassis batteries will keep them charged. You might think about true battery disconnects. The factory installed ones usually still have some parasitic draw, even when 'disconnected.' I have a couple of these on my house batteries: Knife-Blade Switches - Wirthco Engineering, Inc.
It sits for months in storage with no solar or shore power and holds fine.
I had thought about this idea, especially on one of my tractors that seems to have a drain I can not find. On a single battery setup such as my tractor would I need one for P & N post or just P?

How about MH, two batteries, would one on the P post where the two small cables are connected be all needed or one on each batteries P terminal....perhaps only one on a N terminal or none at all?
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Old 09-07-2013, 02:12 PM   #11
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The concept is to open the circuit thus removing the travel of ions.... ;0) Hence only one terminal isolator required. But for discurning people who knows.........
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Old 09-07-2013, 03:08 PM   #12
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LandKinaMoho is correct, only one per battery. Problem is, I have two 12 v for my house batteries, I need one on each. On my chassis batteries, I have two 6 v wired together for 12 v, I'd only need one there, but no parasitic draw on them, so I don't need it
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Old 09-07-2013, 03:24 PM   #13
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I am interested, 12v x 2 for house batteries...
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Old 09-07-2013, 03:36 PM   #14
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[QUOTE=BFlinn181;1718108]LandKinaMoho is correct, only one per battery. Problem is, I have two 12 v for my house batteries, I need one on each. On my chassis batteries, I have two 6 v wired together for 12 v, I'd only need one there, but no parasitic draw on them, so I don't need it[/QUOTE

My setup on MH is different....4-6V for house and 2-12s for chassis...all in cramped space to work with. Pro-fill for house batteries is great. I am not familiar with 12s from other equip I have/had....they are black, appear to be closed top and terminal is at certain top on each end then a terminal attachment that has a big hex terminal stud that screws down on cable connectors, nice and beefy looking. I assume battery to my right is battery number one (if there is such an identification) because two big cables are on those P & N terminals, one cable connecting to battery at left, the other cable going out to engine. Two small cables mentioned before are on battery at left which I will call "the end battery of series".

From previous threads you might have read, you know I have about figured house battery set-up all to well from having problems. Now have four new sixs with new cable wraps and color coded cables/batteries for proper identification......not to mention addition of the Pro-fil water system.

Due to cramped space, Float Charger may be best solution.

bill
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