Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-12-2011, 07:24 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wenatchee, WA.
Posts: 297
Send a message via Yahoo to frederick w
Flushing water system (anti-freeze)

Need to drain/flush the water system of all anti-freeze.

I fill the fresh water tank.
Open the sink faucets, shower, flush toilet
Don't know how to drain/flush the hot water heater.
Water lines in my cargo area? Are there petcocks
there to open?
Do I do anything with the black and grey water tanks.

I guess I need the proper steps to get this Class A ready
for summer.

Thank you
__________________

__________________
frederick w is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 04-12-2011, 07:43 AM   #2
Community Moderator
 
"007"'s Avatar


 
Nor'easters Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 26,726
Here is some help for dewinterizing.
If you used your bypass valves should be no water in HW heater.
Flush the water system than sanitize plumbing system with water in HW heater have all power to HW heater off both gas & electric.
__________________

__________________
98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans, now in good hands
VISIT the NEWMAR QUICK TIPS & EASYMODS 1 & 2
QUICK TIPS # 3
RV SYSTEMS & APPLIANCES & RECALLS --- TECH INFORMATION
"007" is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2011, 08:28 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 180
Be absolutly certain you turn the water heater bypass vavle back to normal and fill the hot water tank with water BEFORE you turn it on. The electric element will burn out in less than a minite if you don't.
__________________
bjsheldon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2011, 09:37 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Luckiest Dreamer's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,188
It is wise to flush out the antifreeze before turning the bypass valves for the water heater as you do not want the antifreeze in it. The heated antifreeze stinks and flushing becomes more nessesary. I suggest that you drain the antifreeze and refill the tank. Turn on the pump and run fresh water through each faucet and the stool. Empty the tank, and refill. Add a cup of bleach and let it sit (overnight if possible) Drain the tank again and refill. Add a cup of white vinegar and give it time as well. That will help to get rid of the bleach smell and taste. Drain again and refill. Now it is time to make sure the water Heater is full of water and then turn on the element. If the water heater is stinking you will need to include it in the flush.
__________________
Larry B, Luckiest Dreamer
Luckiest Dreamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2011, 10:17 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Grayson, GA
Posts: 862
Kinda of a long post but, here is what I do. I have a 2002 Winnabego Ultimate Advantage.
1. Open the petcocks in my water pump compartment and let it drain as much anti-freeze as it will get out. Close the petcocks.
2. Close off the suction line from my anti-freeze tank where I suck the anti-freeze from.
3. Partially fill the fresh water tank ---- about 20 gallons.
4. Turn on water pump (the hot water heater is still issolated at this time) and let the system pressurize.
5. Go into the coach and open up the faucets (one at a time) and let the anti-freeze flush out. Do all faucets, shower, and the toilet-- and the outside shower if you have one. Turn off the water pump.
6. Open dump valve and drop any remaining water in the water tank.
7. Open bypass valves to now include the water heater in the sanitization process.
8. Using my outside water filter (filter removed), I put about 6 ounces of hydrogen peroxide in it (I have a 60 gallon fresh water tank -- one ounce per 10 gallons) and then fill the tank with water flowing through the filter to mix the peroxide.
9. Turn on the water pump and pressurize again. Run water through all faucets, shower, and toilet. Turn off water pump and let the mixture sit overnight to sanitize the system.
10. Some people will dump the remaining water and then fill and flush lines again the next day to "clear out" the peroxide mixture -- sometimes I do and sometimes I don't. The nice thing about peroxide is that it has no odor (like bleach) and does an excellent job of sanitization and will not hurt you -- makes your teeth foam a little if you get some in your mouth -- LOL .
11. If your water smells like rotten eggs, then the heater needs to be cleaned.
12. To do this, I isolate it (close the by pass valves like you are winterizing)
13. There should be a plug near the bottom of the tank that you can remove to drain the tank -- I also open the pressure valve to allow the tank to drain faster. 14. Once drained, I use a wrench to remove the pressure valve, put the plug back in
15. Pour about 1/2 cup of vinegar into the water tank through the pressure valve opening.
16. Fill with water and let this sit for about 8 hours.
17. Drain the hot water tank and fill again with water through the pressure valve opening (I have not put the pressure valve back in while treating the tank). Leave the plug out for a few minutes as it flushes and then put the plug back in and fill. Let sit for about 5 minutes and then drain again -- this should have flushed out the majority of the vinegar and you may see some white flakes coming out with the water -- this is built up mineral deposits which effect the water smell / taste and the efficiency of the water heater.

Now you are all set for the season -- others may have other suggestions that are better than mine.
__________________
Dave and Karen -- '02 Ultimate Advantage 36 C, 350 HP Cummins, Allison 3060 Tranny
'07 Ford Escort, Brake Master 4160, '13 Ford Edge, InvisiBrake
David K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2011, 04:49 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Pusherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,544
Quote:
Originally Posted by David K View Post
Kinda of a long post but, here is what I do. I have a 2002 Winnabego Ultimate Advantage.
1. Open the petcocks in my water pump compartment and let it drain as much anti-freeze as it will get out. Close the petcocks.
2. Close off the suction line from my anti-freeze tank where I suck the anti-freeze from.
3. Partially fill the fresh water tank ---- about 20 gallons.
4. Turn on water pump (the hot water heater is still issolated at this time) and let the system pressurize.
5. Go into the coach and open up the faucets (one at a time) and let the anti-freeze flush out. Do all faucets, shower, and the toilet-- and the outside shower if you have one. Turn off the water pump.
6. Open dump valve and drop any remaining water in the water tank.
7. Open bypass valves to now include the water heater in the sanitization process.
8. Using my outside water filter (filter removed), I put about 6 ounces of hydrogen peroxide in it (I have a 60 gallon fresh water tank -- one ounce per 10 gallons) and then fill the tank with water flowing through the filter to mix the peroxide.
9. Turn on the water pump and pressurize again. Run water through all faucets, shower, and toilet. Turn off water pump and let the mixture sit overnight to sanitize the system.
10. Some people will dump the remaining water and then fill and flush lines again the next day to "clear out" the peroxide mixture -- sometimes I do and sometimes I don't. The nice thing about peroxide is that it has no odor (like bleach) and does an excellent job of sanitization and will not hurt you -- makes your teeth foam a little if you get some in your mouth -- LOL .
11. If your water smells like rotten eggs, then the heater needs to be cleaned.
12. To do this, I isolate it (close the by pass valves like you are winterizing)
13. There should be a plug near the bottom of the tank that you can remove to drain the tank -- I also open the pressure valve to allow the tank to drain faster. 14. Once drained, I use a wrench to remove the pressure valve, put the plug back in
15. Pour about 1/2 cup of vinegar into the water tank through the pressure valve opening.
16. Fill with water and let this sit for about 8 hours.
17. Drain the hot water tank and fill again with water through the pressure valve opening (I have not put the pressure valve back in while treating the tank). Leave the plug out for a few minutes as it flushes and then put the plug back in and fill. Let sit for about 5 minutes and then drain again -- this should have flushed out the majority of the vinegar and you may see some white flakes coming out with the water -- this is built up mineral deposits which effect the water smell / taste and the efficiency of the water heater.

Now you are all set for the season -- others may have other suggestions that are better than mine.
David - sounds like a LOT of work! I suggest you take your coach to your local independent RV shop and they will do all that for you!
__________________
Don
'07 Winnebago Journey 34H - CAT C7, Koni's, MCU's, SS Bell Crank, Safe-T-Plus
'07 HHR Toad, SMI AFO, Blue OX
Pusherman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2011, 06:43 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Grayson, GA
Posts: 862
Don LOL

It does not take that much work -- mainly the time. Since Fred asked for a full explanation I tried to go step by step --- hope I did not over do it with him. Usually I am doing something else while the sanitizing is being done, the flushing being done, etc. Wish I had a good center closer to me (hint, hint) and then we might work something out.
__________________

__________________
Dave and Karen -- '02 Ultimate Advantage 36 C, 350 HP Cummins, Allison 3060 Tranny
'07 Ford Escort, Brake Master 4160, '13 Ford Edge, InvisiBrake
David K is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water system issue... mdbrill MH-General Discussions & Problems 2 11-21-2010 08:08 PM
Water System Problem wingtrike Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 4 03-25-2010 08:53 PM
Water system MACRacing Monaco Owner's Forum 20 02-19-2010 12:00 PM
Water System Issue digNbubbs Monaco Owner's Forum 5 04-15-2008 01:31 PM
Fresh water system leaks Jimary MH-General Discussions & Problems 6 02-22-2007 12:51 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.