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Old 07-07-2015, 06:57 PM   #127
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I did 3 of my windows in April of this year. Not to bad. I did buy a battery powered caulk gun, glad I did as it saved time and did a better job.

I used a number of different cleaners. One of the windows was etched but I got most of it out by using a combination of CLR and 00000 steel wool. I then bought a good quality glass cleaner for the final clean.

The hardest part was getting the metal pull piece off the end. The last one I used some lacquer thinner and thin long razor blade and got it off fairly easy.

I bought my supplies from DK Hardware, less then $100 to do probably 6-7 windows. I had to go back to the website and download and read the instructions to see that the aluminum side goes out as a vapor barrier.

Getting the drivers side window out and in was a challenge doing it myself but I did it.
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:08 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronandsue74 View Post
Tom,
You need to get a power caulk gun, available from Home Depot.
RJ
I gave in, went to Home Depot and got the power caulk gun. I figured I got enough exercise today. Tomorrow I will not burn as many calories but should have a better and neater repair job.
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Old 07-07-2015, 09:31 PM   #129
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Quote:
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I gave in, went to Home Depot and got the power caulk gun. I figured I got enough exercise today. Tomorrow I will not burn as many calories but should have a better and neater repair job.
Tom I'm curious, is the calk required for this repair super thick?

I've done a lot of calking myself but never thought about getting a power caulker!
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Old 07-08-2015, 05:39 AM   #130
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NO, it's not any thicker than any other but using the special caulk guide needed to get caulk in place makes it hard to squeeze. I even have a really good regular caulk gun but it was still a forearm exercise and could not keep from making a mess when arms and hands got tired. POWER CAULK GUN gotta be easier and better as those that have done before have said. Should have listened instead of trying to be cheap.

Well today is another day and I am off now (5:30 AM) to pull driver side window and do it as well as pull and REDO the passenger side window. Hope to get both done today, let caulk cure over night and reinstall both tomorrow. Then I will have only one little window near the recliner area left to do. Hope all goes well today.
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Old 07-08-2015, 07:25 AM   #131
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Very interesting thread. I paid to have mine done, just over $1,000.00 for 4 windows. Next time I will handle myself!

I was able to observe some of the work on my coach, I noticed they used a sabre saw, saws all, bayonet saw (have heard many names for these) to separate the glass. One fellow held the window, the other ran around it with the saw between the panes. Looked like a fine tooth metal blade in the saw. They had the panes separated in less than a minute.

Just thought I would share.

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Old 07-08-2015, 07:26 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Lopez View Post
NO, it's not any thicker than any other but using the special caulk guide needed to get caulk in place makes it hard to squeeze. I even have a really good regular caulk gun but it was still a forearm exercise and could not keep from making a mess when arms and hands got tired. POWER CAULK GUN gotta be easier and better as those that have done before have said. Should have listened instead of trying to be cheap.

Well today is another day and I am off now (5:30 AM) to pull driver side window and do it as well as pull and REDO the passenger side window. Hope to get both done today, let caulk cure over night and reinstall both tomorrow. Then I will have only one little window near the recliner area left to do. Hope all goes well today.

The power caulk gun will be easier. It doesn't get tired and lose its grip! Lol! They will put out a consistent flow of material. We did a project that had over 5,000 feet of caulking to apply to some seams and these things really take a lot of wear and tear off your arms. Oh, yeah, this was all overhead caulking 40' in the air off of a scissor lift.


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Old 07-08-2015, 04:21 PM   #133
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Well it is 4:00 PM and I have been busy working on my windows since 5:30 AM. I am stuck now until next week. I ran out of sealant to seal the last window. Got half way on it and ran out. I still need more to attach the latches and seal seams in the frames. Just ordered more from amazon but won't be here until sometime next week. So I taped plastic film in place of the windows and now the coach looks like it has two black eyes.
Foggy Window Repair - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery
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Old 07-08-2015, 06:21 PM   #134
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Well it is 4:00 PM and I have been busy working on my windows since 5:30 AM. I am stuck now until next week. I ran out of sealant to seal the last window. Got half way on it and ran out. I still need more to attach the latches and seal seams in the frames. Just ordered more from amazon but won't be here until sometime next week. So I taped plastic film in place of the windows and now the coach looks like it has two black eyes.

Foggy Window Repair - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery

Tom, I wished you lived a little closer cause I have two tubes left as well almost a full roll of the descant spacer material. Too much of a drive. It is well worth the effort.


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Old 07-08-2015, 10:03 PM   #135
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I had one window fixed. Cost $350.00 for one window. Researched the "R Factor" of these windows. According to University of CO. They are .029. A plain single glass window is.021. I' contacted a local automotive glass company and received prices to fix 8 more windows with automotive safety glass forless than 400 bucks Installed. Some say the RV dual panes are more quiet, and keep the RV warmer. I don't know about others but we close our shades, blinds at nite. During the day will use blinds to assist keeping heat out of motorhome. Safe travels ed
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Old 07-09-2015, 06:01 AM   #136
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Fogged Window repair thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EDALLSAILS View Post
I had one window fixed. Cost $350.00 for one window. Researched the "R Factor" of these windows. According to University of CO. They are .029. A plain single glass window is.021. I' contacted a local automotive glass company and received prices to fix 8 more windows with automotive safety glass forless than 400 bucks Installed. Some say the RV dual panes are more quiet, and keep the RV warmer. I don't know about others but we close our shades, blinds at nite. During the day will use blinds to assist keeping heat out of motorhome. Safe travels ed

Not sure where you got your R value information to find such low numbers but I did a Google search and found this;

Single Pane. 1/4" glass 0.91
Double Pane with 1/4" air space 1.69

On http://www.archtoolbox.com/materials...n/rvalues.html

I know there are tons of factors involved on windows because I used to sell windows for houses but I know the R value is better double pane than single pane.

I would like the name of the company doing your 8 windows for $400 so I don't waste my time doing anymore of my own. I wouldn't do my own for $400.


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Old 07-09-2015, 09:17 AM   #137
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I did the window in the door of our pusher this winter. Looked great until last week when it fogged again. Darn it! Not sure why the seal would fail so quickly.
That would be enough to send me skyward after all that work...
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:49 AM   #138
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I put the passenger side window back together today. I found enough caulk to finish the window except for the latch. I will have to wait until next week to finish. That is when I should get my order of caulk and I can then finish the driver side windows and install the latch on this window.

The window looks great and there is no more fog here. Here is a picture:

http://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...m/P7106960.JPG

I hope the picture worked. I don't know how to post a thumb print picture.
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:57 PM   #139
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I did the window in the door of our pusher this winter. Looked great until last week when it fogged again. Darn it! Not sure why the seal would fail so quickly.

I used gas from my MIG Welder injected between the panes to insure that there would be no moisture in there. I left two little spaces, on top and one on the bottom to flush the air. I then sealed the two holes with silicone.
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:09 PM   #140
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I used gas from my MIG Welder injected between the panes to insure that there would be no moisture in there. I left two little spaces, on top and one on the bottom to flush the air. I then sealed the two holes with silicone.
I thought about injecting Argon. But I really don't think that it was moisture that was in there. My guess was that the seal failed. I could be incorrect. But it was perfect until last week.
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