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Old 08-24-2014, 07:11 AM   #15
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I agree with all that Bruceisla posted. I got my "handle" removed using a heat gun but it took a while. No damage to the handle finish. I also left out the rubber strip in the handle when reassembling and used the sealant as a glue. It has held up well.

On some windows, after removing the frame from the coach, you must remove 2 or 4 screws holding the frame together (usually at the bottom) to allow you to slightly flex the frame open so that you can remove the dual pane window. There's a picture of this process in the files section here on IRV2. Look here iRV2 Forums - Files - Exterior

For me, getting the two panes split apart was not an issue as one side of mine was already loose.

I had one of the two panes that would not clean up so i took it to a local glass company and had a tempered replacement made.

One additional tip: for your work surface, cover it with cardboard for padding and to catch the drips from the sealant. You can easily trim excess sealant after it dries.

Fred
Hi Fred, your repair file is almost exactly what I did. The only procedural difference was that I used 2 saw horses and didn't need anything to catch drippings and about 4 Stanley Trigger Clamps (plastic tips) to clamp the glass after the sealant was applied.
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Old 08-24-2014, 01:14 PM   #16
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Has anyone used the repair technique where they drill a hole and clean the inside. Replaced with vent holes
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:12 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by akeyzoo View Post
There is no inert gas between panes of glass in RV applications. Manufacturers do put desiccant in between to capture moisture.

No need to use your mig. I have not found any confirmation of inert gas, like what is done in residential applications, in our motorhomes and much to the contrary.

Chris

The only reason I used gas from my MIG was to insure I had dry air between the panes. In my case I did not separate the panes. I just resealed them around the edges with silicone sealer and left two holes. One for gas in the other for air out, I then sealed the two holes and now no more fogging ! Easy .
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:55 PM   #18
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Following with interest. Best of luck guys.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:21 PM   #19
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Still waiting on parts to arrive...

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Old 09-01-2014, 11:38 PM   #20
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The window frame it's self has a rubber seal that has adhesive on one side it so it sticks to the window frame. This seal is what fills the gap between the outside of the wall and the window frame. Then the factory adds a small bead of silicone on the outside of that for extra sealing there is no buta tape in there just the rubber seal and the outside bead of silicone. I removed and replaced two windows and I didn't realize the outside rubber seal was there. If you look at the Dave Root kits just below the reseal kit listings he also sells the rubber outside seals, you'll need those too. Take some pictures when you do your window reseals and post them. I'm going to be resealing my remaining windows in the next couple months.
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:42 PM   #21
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Dave root calls exterior seal kit 3
or 4 for longer pieces
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Old 09-02-2014, 05:11 AM   #22
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The window frame it's self has a rubber seal that has adhesive on one side it so it sticks to the window frame. This seal is what fills the gap between the outside of the wall and the window frame. Then the factory adds a small bead of silicone on the outside of that for extra sealing there is no buta tape in there just the rubber seal and the outside bead of silicone. I removed and replaced two windows and I didn't realize the outside rubber seal was there. If you look at the Dave Root kits just below the reseal kit listings he also sells the rubber outside seals, you'll need those too. Take some pictures when you do your window reseals and post them. I'm going to be resealing my remaining windows in the next couple months.

On my RV the original type of rubber seal is not wide enough to adequately seal the corners of the frame (a poor design). I used 1 inch wide butyl tape instead of the rubber seal. No leaks in 2 years.
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Old 09-02-2014, 05:33 AM   #23
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Sounds like one heck of a job!
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Old 09-02-2014, 03:40 PM   #24
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We are so following this. My Sis-in-law actually works for a window manufacturer. Wonder if she might help us with one window. That darn upper one over the drivers side
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Old 09-02-2014, 03:51 PM   #25
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A few of the videos I saw recommended butyl tape. I purchased a bunch and will see how it goes. I also had to buy a fancy screwdriver that is a low profile ratchet. Obviously the windows were installed before the dash ;-)

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Old 09-02-2014, 04:38 PM   #26
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We are so following this. My Sis-in-law actually works for a window manufacturer. Wonder if she might help us with one window. That darn upper one over the drivers side
That upper window requires removal of the two lower ones and the crossbar to get it out...
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Old 09-02-2014, 10:21 PM   #27
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akeyzoo, I see one fatal flaw in your plan. I would never again use a product containing silicone on an RV of any type. It will not adhere well over time, is very difficult to remove when it leaks (and it will), not even new silicone (RTV) will adhere properly to remaining residue. You can't go wrong with Dicor sealant products, they sell a self-leveling for horizontal surfaces and a thicker version for vertical surfaces.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:03 AM   #28
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akeyzoo, I see one fatal flaw in your plan. I would never again use a product containing silicone on an RV of any type. It will not adhere well over time, is very difficult to remove when it leaks (and it will), not even new silicone (RTV) will adhere properly to remaining residue. You can't go wrong with Dicor sealant products, they sell a self-leveling for horizontal surfaces and a thicker version for vertical surfaces.
Agreed .. and there is no need for additional sealant other than the Butyl Tape.
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