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Old 09-03-2014, 10:50 AM   #29
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Looks like the last of my parts shows up tonight, perhaps I will pop out a small window and see how hard it is to dismantle after work ;-)

Chris
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Old 09-03-2014, 04:46 PM   #30
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Be patient and best of luck.

If anyone on the East Coast is having window issues I'd recommending checking out
RV glass repair services in NC. A friend of mine had his repaired there a couple years ago and had nothing but great things to say. rvglassrepairservices.com
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Old 09-09-2014, 11:00 AM   #31
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Half of coach windows done.

OK, I was able to complete 5 of the windows on the passenger side of the coach this weekend..... Here is the rundown.

First, my windows weren't awful, I took a before pic of one that I was pulling and it is hard to see the fogging in the pic. I cannot edit inline with photos it seems anymore, so I will describe the process and attach photos.

Getting the windows out was a bit of a chore. Removing screws on interior of coach, and whatever is needed to remove to gain access to the screws is the first order of business.

Next, as you see, I first use plastic tools to begin prying the window frame out. Once I get some separation, I would use a metal putty knife to go around the perimeter and be careful not to scratch paint, which I didn't.

Once the window is out, in essence you have to pull it completely apart. First remove the screws, one on each side, that hold the middle bar of the frame. Then remove the 4 screws that hold the seam of the frame together. Pull of the plate held in by the 4 screws (it is on there good thanks to the black goop).

Next, I would inset one of my plastic tools into the frame seam, as to pry it apart. This allows you to pull both pieces of glass out, the fixed and sliding glass. Remove, if you haven't already, all rubber pieces.

Next, using a utility knife I cut the frames apart and then scraped all of the material off the glass. I recommend labeling the outside pane outer side, and inside pane, inner side so they go back together the way you took them apart. By doing this, I validated one window pane was assembled wrong from factory, the tinted pane was on the interior.

Have LOTS of razor blades. You need about 1 per double pane.

Next clean the interior sides of glass.

Next clean the interior sides of glass again. Mine were easy to got perfect with just glass cleaner. Do be mindful that the black sealant smudges and can be tough to get completely off.

Next, apply the foam sealant spacer leaving about 1/4" of glass outside of the foam and place the two panes together. The foam spacer has exceptional sticking power, so I quickly learned that clamping the panes is totally unnecessary.

Use the sealant applicator to then pump in the sealant in between the panes. You will get the hang of this. An extra set of hands holding glass and rotating it would have been helpful.

On to my next post with more pics...


Chris
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Old 09-09-2014, 11:13 AM   #32
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Window refurb part duex

OK, a few more pics to complete the job.

Note, to reattach the handles I used globs of sealant. One note, to remove the handles when disassembling I used the carefully applied steady force from a screwdriver, and if needed some heat.

Before reassembly I used a car mitt, hose and soap to clean all of the rubber and window frames.

Next, reassembling the window is pretty straightforward. I would start with the sliding panes, as they are furthest from the seam. First insert rubber guide, then the panes. Next, by spreading the frame apart even more I would insert the fixed pane. I then used a mallet to close the frame up, and used a mallet against the window metal divider to drive the fixed glass pane in and fully seat it. No issues here.

Then insert the 4 screws clamping seam of frame and 2 screws holding fixed divider on. The divider screws required a flashlight to line up the holes, no biggie.

Once done, I used sealant where it was by factory, covering plate, screws and the backside of the metal frame seam.

Then clean the glass real good, getting sealant off.

Then apply butyl tape to backside of window frame and grab a helper.

Place window in opening and have helper hld in place from outside making sure it is lined up. Surprising the coach was painted after the windows went in, so you do have to line them up.

Put the backing plates on from the interior of coach and re-screw. Note a few screws were, or became stripped in original holes. I would then angle them in the frame to tap a new hole for those. I used my dewalt 1/4 inch drive impact driver.

Go to outside and carve away any butyl tape that squeezed out and then reinstall interior pieces.

Wash windows again, then enjoy the new view.

Except for one window that I found a few smudges on the INTERIOR of the panes, damnit, the results are fantastic. Comparing the old (drivers side) and new (passenger side) shows a dramatic difference.

I started the job at 9am Saturday, and worked until 4. It took this long, alone, to get to the point that the panes were resealed. I didn't feel comfortable assembling at this point and waited until AM to finish. On Sunday I was totally done by noon.

I am surprised teams can do a coach in a day, since the sealant needs to dry and is slow to do so.

Next I have to do drivers side. I couldn't do it this weekend even if I wanted as I ran out of the sealant. I had only ordered 2 tubes, and 3-4 are needed for the whole coach.

Enjoy!

Chris
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Old 09-09-2014, 05:36 PM   #33
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Great write up! and thank you for taking the time to take pictures. Makes me alot more comfortable doing mine later on this year. I've forgotten did you buy the kits? Or separate parts? Any tools that you think are absolutely necessary other than the razor blades? Or you wish you would have had before you started. Thanks again for the information.
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:26 PM   #34
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Nice work!

I'll add a few comments (from experience):

You did well to fix the problem early in the cycle. My neglected 14 year old windows did not clean up as well ... etching was severe on one and minor (but noticeable) on 2.

If at all possible, work inside in an air conditioned environment to keep the humidity of the air between panes at a minimum.

I used clamps with soft tips on the panes ... not to keep the panes from moving but to improve glass/sealant contact. The clamps were not tight until the seam was filled.
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:33 PM   #35
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Wow nice job Chris! I stumbled on this thread and enjoyed reading from your perspective as I just finished the same job on my 07 Rev. I did all the windows after
buying the kit from Dave Root. Labor intensive and the best I could do was 2 windows per day. Did you struggle with mechanism on slider? I did not replace the foam seal on the outside as it was in great shape. Your floor in above pics looks like mine !I tried putting the first window that I did back together too soon and had that black
crap all over, ha.
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:39 PM   #36
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@cat,
Read earlier in this thread, I found and posted links to pats from amazon. Well under $200 to do entire coach.

If there were an ergonomic handled piano wire, that may be easier to cut the panes apart.

Chris
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:46 PM   #37
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Roadkingray,
Cool! No trouble with the slider for me.

Chris
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Old 09-11-2014, 01:22 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceisla View Post
I'll tell you what I know from doing 3 or 4 or ...

1) there is NO inert gas between panes.

2) the desiccant is contained in the spacer.

3) use 1" Butyl tape and not 3/4" ... you need the extra to completely fill the width of the frame. Cut off the excess with a smooth plastic knife or the edge of an old credit card AFTER the window is drawn tight to the RV body.

4) no silicone sealer is required ... the Butyl tape seals the seam.

5) you can't really see the Butyl tape once the window is drawn tight to the body.

6) if the glass is etched (quite often), only polishing will remove (or mitigate) it ... I did not find any chemical that did anything ... and I tried everything.

7) the "handles" are a bummer to get off the sliding pane ... a propane torch moved back and forth across the entire handle eventually loosens the adhesive ... in my case, the paint was not damaged at all. Fasten the handle with the same glass sealer you used between panes.

8) reseal the glass in an air-conditioned room (low humidity).

9) it's time consuming ... figure one window per day ... you will hate this job.

10) I had one pane that was severely etched ... I replaced that pane with Lexan (not plexiglass) ... so far so good after 1 year.
Hi bruceisla

Can you tell us more about the Lexan window? I'd like to do mine with a solid pane. Was it pricy and does it come tinted? Can you post a pick? How thick was it and does it cut easy?

Thanks
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Old 09-11-2014, 02:28 PM   #39
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Hi bruceisla

Can you tell us more about the Lexan window? I'd like to do mine with a solid pane. Was it pricy and does it come tinted? Can you post a pick? How thick was it and does it cut easy?

Thanks
Lexan is available at Home Depot (and probably Lowes) in the cut glass department. It is NOT the same as Plexiglas. Lexan is quite often used to replace glass in windows that are prone to breakage (like a home facing a golf course).

LEXAN - Plastic Sheets - Building Materials¬*at The Home Depot

https://sfs.sabic.eu/wp-content/uplo...ated-Sheet.pdf

I replaced 1 of the panes with Lexan and kept the other tinted pane. It can be cut with a fine tooth saber (jig) saw. The Lexan was used on the inside (facing interior of RV) to minimize and possible scratches (although Lexan is scratch resist and and very hard). It may be available tinted but I didn't bother since the glass pane that was retained is tinted. I's not terribly pricey ... about $20 depending on size and thickness. The piece I used was very slightly (a few thousandths of an inch) thinner than the original glass. When reassembled it fits like the original.

I may have a picture but you wouldn't know the original from the Lexan.
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Old 09-11-2014, 03:02 PM   #40
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[QUOTE=bruceisla;2224514]Lexan is available at Home Depot (and probably Lowes) in the cut glass department. It is NOT the same as Plexiglas. Lexan is quite often used to replace glass in windows that are prone to breakage (like a home facing a golf course).

LEXAN - Plastic Sheets - Building Materials¬*at The Home Depot

https://sfs.sabic.eu/wp-content/uplo...ated-Sheet.pdf

I replaced 1 of the panes with Lexan and kept the other tinted pane. It can be cut with a fine tooth saber (jig) saw. The Lexan was used on the inside (facing interior of RV) to minimize and possible scratches (although Lexan is scratch resist and and very hard). It may be available tinted but I didn't bother since the glass pane that was retained is tinted. I's not terribly pricey ... about $20 depending on size and thickness. The piece I used was very slightly (a few thousandths of an inch) thinner than the original glass. When reassembled it fits like the original.

Thanks for the info/websites.

I'll start a new post the OP has a pretty darn good post here on window repair and I don't want to mud it up with my questions on lexan. Please watch for my post and maybe others wil chime in too.
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Old 09-11-2014, 03:55 PM   #41
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Akeyzoo the link for the spacer shows a gray spacer is that the right color? My 2007 Fleetwood window appears to be black or dark grey? Hard to tell the actual color.
Thanks
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Old 09-11-2014, 04:08 PM   #42
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Akeyzoo the link for the spacer shows a gray spacer is that the right color? My 2007 Fleetwood window appears to be black or dark grey? Hard to tell the actual color.
Thanks
I'd describe it as grey ... but the sealant is black. Once the dual panes are reassembled and in their frame gaskets, and then dropped in the slots of the window frames, there is very little showing to the inside and nothing to the outside when the windows are closed. You can see some of the spacer/sealant when the sliding portions are opened. My originals had an aluminum spacer and it looked very similar (grey).

If you go "up" to #31 and look at the last 2 pics you can see the color.
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