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Old 10-15-2014, 04:00 PM   #85
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Alan, I was in a hurry to get the info to you about the 2 screws in the center support, you would never get the thing to open up far enough without taking them out. There torks I think 20ies or so. I chickened out on my glass repairs and I'am a McGiver king of guy. I sent them out to Hudson Fla for repairs and will let you guys know how that works out. They were 3 small pieces so I took them out and shipped them we'll see.

Ray, you are correct on the screws and I have them out and the glass panes apart. I have to go get the 0000 steel wool. It hasn't been too bad but I am just getting over being sick for the last week and that is kicking my butt! Started at 2:30 and had to quit. Clean glass and back together. I still need to figure out how deep to place the spacer before I apply the sealant.


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Old 10-15-2014, 04:09 PM   #86
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My wife just got home and showed me what she bought and it is 0000.
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Old 10-15-2014, 10:55 PM   #87
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Fogged Windows

After reading this thread and doing some searching around here for window help, I decided to order the materials and do the window repair myself. I pulled a smaller window in one of the slides to start with. The removal from the coach went smooth, and actually the frame disassembly went well and the window glass was removed. Separation of the fixed position window was easily done. The slider presented a problem removing the latch assembly. I broke the clear pane and had to order a replacement. Tomorrow I will put the dual panes back together and let cure overnight before reassembly of the window.
Moving forward, my only concern is getting the latch assembly removed from the slider in each set without breaking glass again. I know someone posted they applied some heat, but I am afraid that the aluminum and glass will heat at different rates and the glass will shatter. Is a Mapp gas torch too much heat to accomplish the task? What methods have you used?
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:10 AM   #88
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@pjb, i used a heat gun. You have to get it pretty hot for the handle to come off. I used a screwdriver and a wood shim as a softener on the glass edge. Apply light pressure on the screwdriver and heat the aluminum handle. Take your time and it will come off.
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Old 10-16-2014, 04:54 PM   #89
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I got my first one back together today to install in the MH tomorrow. If I did this much I would have arms like Popeye! That sealant is so hard to squeeze out and it gets on everything! Either that or I am messy as the dickens! I learned a lot on this go round and I know the next one will be better. Thanks to the OP for starting this. Looks so much better!!


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Old 10-16-2014, 05:59 PM   #90
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Excellent Alan, and you are welcome. When doing multiple windows I found it was cutting the two panes apart that caused popeye-ism of the forearm!

BTW, if you are using the sealant applicator you really shouldn't be making a mess. Perhaps you need someone to hold and rotate the glass for you while you go around the perimeter. Oh, and when you are at a stopping/pause point be sure to release the pressure in your caulking gun.

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Quote:
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I got my first one back together today to install in the MH tomorrow. If I did this much I would have arms like Popeye! That sealant is so hard to squeeze out and it gets on everything! Either that or I am messy as the dickens! I learned a lot on this go round and I know the next one will be better. Thanks to the OP for starting this. Looks so much better!!


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Old 10-16-2014, 06:02 PM   #91
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I used a little heat. Then I placed one of my plastic trim tools against the glass edge so that I could pry against the metal with a screwdriver and not have the screwdriver contact the glass. This also helps spread out the pressure against the glass. By gently prying I was able to do 5 windows with no issues. By the last few I didn't bother with heat.

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Originally Posted by pjb View Post
After reading this thread and doing some searching around here for window help, I decided to order the materials and do the window repair myself. I pulled a smaller window in one of the slides to start with. The removal from the coach went smooth, and actually the frame disassembly went well and the window glass was removed. Separation of the fixed position window was easily done. The slider presented a problem removing the latch assembly. I broke the clear pane and had to order a replacement. Tomorrow I will put the dual panes back together and let cure overnight before reassembly of the window.
Moving forward, my only concern is getting the latch assembly removed from the slider in each set without breaking glass again. I know someone posted they applied some heat, but I am afraid that the aluminum and glass will heat at different rates and the glass will shatter. Is a Mapp gas torch too much heat to accomplish the task? What methods have you used?
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Old 10-16-2014, 08:16 PM   #92
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Excellent Alan, and you are welcome. When doing multiple windows I found it was cutting the two panes apart that caused popeye-ism of the forearm!

BTW, if you are using the sealant applicator you really shouldn't be making a mess. Perhaps you need someone to hold and rotate the glass for you while you go around the perimeter. Oh, and when you are at a stopping/pause point be sure to release the pressure in your caulking gun.

Chris

I used a carpet razor blade to cut them apart as those blades are thinner so it wasn't bad at all. But the applicator?! That thing is a killer on the hands and forearm and yes holding the glass still was a challenge


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Old 10-16-2014, 08:34 PM   #93
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I've used 0000 steel wool for years on my tempered glass on my boats and now my RV. I buff/clean my glass with 4/0 steel wool and rain-x. I NEVER use water, as it will start the rusting process. Windex will work, but rain-x works best for me.
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:14 AM   #94
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I've used 0000 steel wool for years on my tempered glass on my boats and now my RV. I buff/clean my glass with 4/0 steel wool and rain-x. I NEVER use water, as it will start the rusting process. Windex will work, but rain-x works best for me.

Mike, do you mean buff with 0000 and THEN use Rain-x the window cleaner or Rain-x the treatment? I like the idea just trying to be sure I understand the process.


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Old 10-17-2014, 08:28 AM   #95
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First clean well with the Rain-x window washing fluid and 0000 wool. The I did a polish with 0000 and RainX, and wipe down with a damp micro cloth. After that the washer fluid in a spray bottle, and a cleaner/squeegee is,all i need. If traveling and its really buggy, I have to repeat RainX/0000 about every three months.
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:15 AM   #96
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First clean well with the Rain-x window washing fluid and 0000 wool. The I did a polish with 0000 and RainX, and wipe down with a damp micro cloth. After that the washer fluid in a spray bottle, and a cleaner/squeegee is,all i need. If traveling and its really buggy, I have to repeat RainX/0000 about every three months.

Thanks for the clarification.


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Old 10-19-2014, 12:10 AM   #97
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Fogged windows

Reassembled the window tonite, only issue was getting the rubber seal lined up for the fixed place window. Installed the slider first, then coaxed it all together. One down, 5 to go, 4 of which are twice the size as the test window. What the heck else do I have to do anyway!! Thanks to those who have contributed to this thread.
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Old 10-19-2014, 04:22 AM   #98
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Reassembled the window tonite, only issue was getting the rubber seal lined up for the fixed place window. Installed the slider first, then coaxed it all together. One down, 5 to go, 4 of which are twice the size as the test window. What the heck else do I have to do anyway!! Thanks to those who have contributed to this thread.

I had an awful time keeping the deal in place. I ended up using WD40 to get it to slide in without wrinkling up. I think it just takes a little time and practice. I have a few more to go myself.


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