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Old 03-13-2016, 01:12 PM   #1
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For those who tow trailers behind them, hitch?

For those who posted in the "those who tow trailers" thread, tell me about your hitch. Mine has a 5,000# max, apparently the most available, and I pull a 6300# pickup behind a 33" class A and the only part not legal is the dang hitch. Before I have one customized, I'd really like options.
So, what do you use?
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Old 03-13-2016, 01:16 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rider1046 View Post
For those who posted in the "those who tow trailers" thread, tell me about your hitch. Mine has a 5,000# max, apparently the most available, and I pull a 6300# pickup behind a 33" class A and the only part not legal is the dang hitch. Before I have one customized, I'd really like options.
So, what do you use?
Here is a 3 page thread for years back that I started when faced with this up-grade
Upgrading 5,000# receiver to 10,000#? Options?
Hope it helps you out
Here is why I needed the up-grade..........
Jeep JK & Ultra Classic inside and a lot of other stuff..........
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Old 03-13-2016, 02:11 PM   #3
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Check with the manufacturer. Mine had a 10,000# hitch, but two years later my same model came with a 15,000# hitch. I called Tiffin and was told that my chassis was good for the heavier hitch. I went with the 15K one along with an equalizer kit with sway control. I tow a 12,000# trailer with a 1500# tongue weight.
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:36 PM   #4
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Your chassis configuration may not allow for much more than a 5k hitch. Do your frame rails run all the way to the rear?? I'll bet with only the 5k hitch they don't and your chassis has the small frame extensions welded on. Check the GCWR sticker too!! Just changing to a 10k hitch doesn't solve your problems.
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:45 PM   #5
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Most of the newer coaches I see with only a 5K rating are because of the frame extension. Crawl under the coach and look over the joint where the frame & frame extension meet. If it's like most I see, its just been butt welded with a small doubler stich welded on the inside of the rail. What we do to increase the capacity is have much longer doubler's made for both inner & outer and then frame bolted together, thus sandwiching the frame rail and spreading the load. Same they do on tractor when the frame is lengthened.
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:50 PM   #6
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I know in a lot of cases, the difference between the 5,000lb and 10,000lb towing is not the hitch/frame etc BUT, the transmission. The Allison 2000 has a 5,000lb towing capacity and to get 10,000lb towing you need to have the Allison 3000 tranny.
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Old 03-15-2016, 02:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rider1046 View Post
For those who posted in the "those who tow trailers" thread, tell me about your hitch. Mine has a 5,000# max, apparently the most available, and I pull a 6300# pickup behind a 33" class A and the only part not legal is the dang hitch. Before I have one customized, I'd really like options.
So, what do you use?
So my hitch is stock Class III with 5000#/500# tow/TW. I need about 750#-1000# TW so I want to upgrade my hitch and frame. I will either get a shop to do it or I will complete the task myself this summer, when I am not traveling. Looking for a class IV hitch to bolt/weld on.
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:15 AM   #8
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Infinity Jim, that is exactly what I have been thinking. My old MH was built like that and I used a couple of 5,000# cables to link to the truck frame section to supplement the hitch but wanting a permanent solution this time.
D Lindy, the Allison 1000 in my motorhome is designed for a 26,000# GCWR. As long as the hitch, frame, and towbar are suitable, the transmission should not be an issue. The Damon Chassis Guide for the Workhorse W22 with the Allison 1000MH transmission, which I have, shows a towing capacity of 26,000 lb Maximum Gross Combined Vehicle Weight for the transmission as well as the motorhome. How much of it is in the towed vehicle is not relevant.
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:18 AM   #9
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W3BY, I am having no luck finding a 7,500# or 10,000# hitch that will bolt on my MH. Having a welding shop build one for me or reinforce the one I have seems to be the only answer. That or switch towed vehicles.
Al
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:23 AM   #10
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PaleHorse89, thanks for the reading material. Gave me much to think about. Nice looking rig you have there.
Al
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:51 AM   #11
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rider1046; OK then you're saying that your able to keep you MH's GVW at or below 19,700lbs all the time then in order to tow 6300lbs?
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:23 AM   #12
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I have a 10,000 lb hitch and tow a 12,000 lb "rolling garage" cargo trailer behind me. Although it is not always full.

Tongue weight is very high due to motorcycle and junk up front. I even place the car in the trailer facing the rear so the engine is at the rear of the trailer to offset the weight of the motorcycle.

Been traveling like that for the past 6 years - 45,000 miles with three road trips to Alaska and back.

Never know the trailer is back there except when doing grades, up and down.

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Old 03-15-2016, 12:05 PM   #13
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D Lindy: Actually, that is what I am saying. After fueling up at Flying J and weighing on a Cat scales, both MH and Pickup, and with LP tank full and fresh water tank half full, my wife and I both aboard, weights were as follows:

Actual

Steer axle 6,020 (Rated 8,000)

Drive axle 12,940 (Rated 14,500)

GVW 18,960 (Rated 20,700)

Towed p/u 6,380

GCWR 25,340 (Rated 26,000)


That includes between 300-500 lbs of tools and gear in my pickup plus gear and supplies for a two week trip.
I can easily use 600 lbs reinforcing my frame and hitch and still be legal. Not to mention, I carry an awful lot of stuff I could easily leave behind freeing up another 300 or 400 lbs.
I've spent the last 42 years getting trucks legal not only on gross but also on each axle and it is all in how you balance your load.
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Old 03-15-2016, 12:25 PM   #14
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I know about getting "IT LEGAL" you're just luckier then I am. With our Journey I'm right at or even over the rear axle gross of 20,000, and that was loaded for a 2 week vacation, not sure how it'll work once we load for full time.
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