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Old 05-29-2014, 07:01 PM   #15
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How about buying a port-a-potty and patching the hole till you get home where you can fix it with more time.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:34 PM   #16
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Have long been home. Just now addressing the problem during the holiday. Hope to have a majority of the repair done this weekend, save the tile, grout and install of the toilet.
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Old 06-02-2014, 12:30 AM   #17
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Well, got to spend some quality time on the repair. Because of the limited space, a bevel cut posed a real problem, at least for me it did.

Took a different route and used two 1/4"x1 1/2" steel plate and 2" bolts/washers/nylock nuts to create a cradle for the 1 1/2" plywood repair. I am putting back the foam base of 2 1/2".

Made all cuts with a jigsaw.

The toilet flange came out very nicely with no issues and it is threaded.

Tomorrow, I make a paper pattern for the cuts I made in the floor for the new plywood repair. Using the original liquid nails and screwing the the patch wood diaganally for extra support.

The floor consited of tile, two 3/4" particle board layers, one 2 1/2" layer of foam, 1/8" layer of luan and some kind of fabric.






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Old 06-02-2014, 12:53 AM   #18
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Looks like a great repair! Probably stronger than what was there from factory.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:34 AM   #19
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Tight space to work! If possible, I'd cut the two layers to different sizes, top layer slightly larger all around to form a rim. Glued and screwed, there would be no possibility of movement of the patch separate from the rest of the floor. Any movement would cause cracked tiles otherwise. A mini circular, or zip saw would perhaps work. Perhaps it can be rented for the one-time job instead of need to purchase.
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:54 AM   #20
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Tight space to work! If possible, I'd cut the two layers to different sizes, top layer slightly larger all around to form a rim. Glued and screwed, there would be no possibility of movement of the patch separate from the rest of the floor. Any movement would cause cracked tiles otherwise. A mini circular, or zip saw would perhaps work. Perhaps it can be rented for the one-time job instead of need to purchase.
Good idea. I think I'll cut an extra 1" to 1 1/2" lip on the top layer of ply at 12,3,6,9 o'clock, as I have the material left. I bought one of those Rockwell 4" circular saws that should do the trick. I'll then screw/glue those lips to the second layer, as well as the patch wood angled screws into the surrounding main floor.

Thanks for the tip!
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:16 PM   #21
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Cut the layer one tabs to fasten to layer two. Now, need to cut patch panels. Gonna' be a bit of a chore with all of the irregular lines to measure.


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Old 06-02-2014, 10:51 PM   #22
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You might consider using an oscillating multi tool for cutting. They work well in tight spaces and intricate shapes.

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Old 06-03-2014, 09:26 PM   #23
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I did some research on the Dewalt multitool....wow, that thing is versatile. May pick one up.
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:09 AM   #24
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I did some research on the Dewalt multitool....wow, that thing is versatile. May pick one up.
They really are a useful tool. The only downside is the blades can be expensive and can wear out easily. You can find cheaper, off brand, replacement blades on amazon or harbor freight.
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:53 AM   #25
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I've seen GitRot used since in came out in the '60's. As I said before,(post # 6) it's fine for soft wood around a screw hole, but trying to reinforce a large area is at best a delaying movement. I grew up in and around boats. I've repaired yachts that were repaired with thinned epoxy. (GitRot and the like) The problem we discovered in mahogany, cedar, oak, other solid woods AND plywood is the some of the epoxy soaks into the fibers but it doesn't penetrate 100%. ANY soft wood left will continue to allow rot to spread and weaken the structure. A treated soft spot in a rib could spread to planking, keel, chines, etc. You then have to replace much more than if you had removed all the rot and put in new wood in the beginning.

Yes, there will certainly be supports under the particle board flooring, it's not known for strength in spanning large spaces. Cut out the floor further than the soft wood and use a mirror and a light to see what's there to build on.

Be aware you will probably have to sacrifice a number of floor tiles to do the repair, you might want to use a different color around the toilet, or develop a pattern mixing old and new tiles. Success laying the new tile will depend on a very immobile new floor base and use flexible adhesive and grout.

Good luck with it!
I'm with you. I tore off the roof sheathing, just finished. Where I applied the GitRot it was fairly stiff but all around it the sheathing was in pieces. Good holding action but better to fix properly.
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:52 PM   #26
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Finally got to getting the two pieces of ply down and saw a 4.25" hole for the flange to the black tank.

Found out the hard way that the two layer subfloor thicknesses were different e.g. top 5/8" and bottom 3/4". Had to cut a new top layer piece with the correct ply. Hey, why do something once when you can do it twice for twice the price....

The steel bar cradle is rock solid. I also used a Kreg Jig so I could drill screws sideways into the main sub floor. Worked very well with 2 1/2" screws.

Pretty much ready to lay the tile. I do have to scrape the old mastic from the bottom of the tiles...hard as a rock. I bought that DeWalt muliti tool and ordered the carbide sanding pad for that. Hope it works.

Not too far off from wrapping this one up....finally.

Then, going after the no water to the bath/kitchen sink issue.


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Old 06-14-2014, 11:19 PM   #27
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Very nice repair!!
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:24 AM   #28
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Awesome - nice work.
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