Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-19-2015, 11:47 AM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Alaska
Posts: 4
Fresh water tank Ball Valve

Trying to flush my fresh tank today. Filled the tank a third full and then opened the drain valve. When I tried to close the valve, it would not close all the way. Tried opening and closing, tried running more water through the tank. Still will not close all the way. Checked the exit and looked good. Tried to close it again and broke the handle off. Now I'm really happy!!!
So what is my best option? replace the whole valve or add a new valve at the exit of the drain tube? This is on our Bounder 34F. The area where the current vale is located is very tight. Right below the tank and above the propane tank compartment.

any thought on how to fix this would be great. Anybody know if you can lube the pvc ball valve?

Thanks for reading

Jim
__________________

__________________
Theroughlife is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 06-19-2015, 02:09 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
gruelens's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,297
If there is room to get the old valve out or cut it out, I would suggest a sharkbite valve for replacement. Easy to install and they don't leak.

SharkBite Valves: Brass, PEX, Quick Connect & Push-Fit Ball Valves
__________________

__________________
George R. - Fulltiming since January '03
2007 Newmar Mountain Aire 3991
2012 Chevy Malibu LT1
gruelens is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2015, 04:30 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
BigBadDad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 281
PVC valves are horrible. I bought my Bounder new and very early on replaced that ball valve with a brass valve. (either ball valve or gate valve would be fine). I cut it off with an oscillating tool, slapped on a threaded adapter for the new valve and used soft tubing for new drain output. Easy and gives you flexibility to do it how you want. I capped off the old hard drain that tied into the overflow line. I also put a ball valve on the water heater heater drain with a hose bib outlet.....just put on a short piece of hose, flip the valve and it's draining. Can drain both tanks in no time with not effort and getting it set up was not hard.
__________________
BigBadDad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2015, 02:01 PM   #4
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Alaska
Posts: 4
update

thanks for the help. so far I am using a vise grip and was able to close the valve.
__________________
Theroughlife is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2015, 03:43 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Sky_Boss's Avatar


 
Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ON THE ROAD...SOMEWHERE
Posts: 6,072
Quote:
Originally Posted by gruelens View Post
If there is room to get the old valve out or cut it out, I would suggest a sharkbite valve for replacement. Easy to install and they don't leak.

SharkBite Valves: Brass, PEX, Quick Connect & Push-Fit Ball Valves
I'm in the process of redoing my water bay because of a leaking city water valve and adding a powered water reel while at it. I'm using a lot of PEX but I DO NOT recommend Sharkbite fittings unless they are easy to access. As an example I am using a Sharkbite check valve but it will be mounted in plain view as seen in the attached picture. The reason I won't use them in out of sight places is because of the vibration they will be subjected to when traveling. For that reason I am using stainless steel crimps in all other places.

YMMV
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	114540489_82thumb_770x574.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	104.8 KB
ID:	97979  
__________________
Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 DSDP 4320, Spartan MM IFS, 2013 CR-V, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1, Samsung 197R Refer.
Sky_Boss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2015, 04:20 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
gruelens's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky_Boss View Post
I'm in the process of redoing my water bay because of a leaking city water valve and adding a powered water reel while at it. I'm using a lot of PEX but I DO NOT recommend Sharkbite fittings unless they are easy to access. As an example I am using a Sharkbite check valve but it will be mounted in plain view as seen in the attached picture. The reason I won't use them in out of sight places is because of the vibration they will be subjected to when traveling. For that reason I am using stainless steel crimps in all other places.

YMMV
I suggested Sharkbite fittings because the OP had limited space available to work and only one fitting needed (as they are expensive). If the application is PEX then Sharkbite would save the cost of a crimper tool providing there is space to use it.

I do not know of any documented case of a Sharkbite fitting failure do to vibration similar to that in a wet bay. Inquiring minds want to know???
__________________
George R. - Fulltiming since January '03
2007 Newmar Mountain Aire 3991
2012 Chevy Malibu LT1
gruelens is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2015, 05:03 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Sky_Boss's Avatar


 
Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ON THE ROAD...SOMEWHERE
Posts: 6,072
Quote:
Originally Posted by gruelens View Post
I suggested Sharkbite fittings because the OP had limited space available to work and only one fitting needed (as they are expensive). If the application is PEX then Sharkbite would save the cost of a crimper tool providing there is space to use it.

I do not know of any documented case of a Sharkbite fitting failure do to vibration similar to that in a wet bay. Inquiring minds want to know???
I know about the limited space...trust me. LOL While reaching back to replace the valve might sound simple there isn't much that I found simple. Nearly all the work is done in the blind. Brackets that were use to secure the original valve won't fit the newer valves having a need to redo them. Could it all be done in the blind...I suppose so but my knuckles will hate me. So...perhaps since I am doing a total rebuild of the water bay "taints" my opinion.

Do you know what kind of pipe/tubing the OP has that connects things? I don't but I do know that it can be a little of this and a little of that. I know that in my case it isn't easy to replace the city water valve without removing the whole panel. So in MY case I have chosen my course of actions.

So...I don't think it is necessary for me to produce documentation that you seem to need. I gave a reason why I choose not to use and do not recommend the use Sharkbite fittings in tight places in a house that bounces around.

Again...YMMV
__________________
Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 DSDP 4320, Spartan MM IFS, 2013 CR-V, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1, Samsung 197R Refer.
Sky_Boss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2015, 06:06 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Scottybdivin's Avatar


 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Spicewood Texas (West of Austin)
Posts: 3,381
Funny that I should find this topic today. Today I was going to drain the fresh tank to disinfect and re-fill with new water. The black plastic handle on the brass ball valve just spun around and wouldn't open the valve. The screw holding it in place was either stripped or corroded. I elected to pry off the plastic handle, which broke into several pieces. Then I was able to access the stem on the valve to open and close it with a very small wrench. Now the question is, do I want to cut it apart (PEX) and replace the valve or just continue to use the wrench. I probably will not use the valve more than a couple times a year. The valve works fine with the wrench.

I have valves scattered all over my 18 ac property, irrigation, multiple wells, storage tanks, booster pumps, etc. 20 years ago, I installed a lot of brass valves but have evolved into PVC ball valves. The weak link on brass valves, whether ball or gate valves has always been the handles. I have not had one failure of a PVC ball valve on my property over the last 10 or so years.
__________________
Scotty and Kristen, Airedales Dagny and Wyatt
2007 Newmar Mountain Aire 4528, 450 HP ISM, Allison 4000, 8 Trojan T-105's
2014 F150 4x4 Crew Cab Platinum 157" WB
Roadmaster Blackhawk 2, RVI2 Brake System
Scottybdivin is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2015, 06:15 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Sky_Boss's Avatar


 
Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ON THE ROAD...SOMEWHERE
Posts: 6,072
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
...I elected to pry off the plastic handle, which broke into several pieces. Then I was able to access the stem on the valve to open and close it with a very small wrench. Now the question is, do I want to cut it apart (PEX) and replace the valve or just continue to use the wrench. I probably will not use the valve more than a couple times a year. The valve works fine with the wrench.
As long as you can get it to close with the wrench...replace it when you want to and have the time. We move around enough that we fill the fresh water tank several times a year. We found we needed to replace it because it lost its seal and now the water pump cycles on and off when using it. I also had intermittent leaking behind the fresh water inlet us my bigger project. LOL
__________________

__________________
Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 DSDP 4320, Spartan MM IFS, 2013 CR-V, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1, Samsung 197R Refer.
Sky_Boss is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
fresh water, tank, water



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Managing Fresh Water Tank? KarenS144 MH-General Discussions & Problems 18 05-15-2015 07:37 PM
Fresh Water Tank Sagging yuppie_rednk Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 13 02-17-2015 07:40 PM
Fresh water tank dump valve leaking Phil Sample Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 3 02-15-2015 06:34 AM
Tank vent tube drains fresh water tank problem Laker44 Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 20 09-01-2014 10:53 AM
Fresh Water Tank Problems 01breeze National RV Owner's Forum 4 08-27-2014 11:04 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:30 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.