Community Forums

Theroughlife · 06-19-2015, 10:47 AM

Trying to flush my fresh tank today. Filled the tank a third full and then opened the drain valve. When I tried to close the valve, it would not close all the way. Tried opening and closing, tried running more water through the tank. Still will not close all the way. Checked the exit and looked good. Tried to close it again and broke the handle off. Now I'm really happy!!!
So what is my best option? replace the whole valve or add a new valve at the exit of the drain tube? This is on our Bounder 34F. The area where the current vale is located is very tight. Right below the tank and above the propane tank compartment.

any thought on how to fix this would be great. Anybody know if you can lube the pvc ball valve?

Thanks for reading

Jim

gruelens · 06-19-2015, 01:09 PM

If there is room to get the old valve out or cut it out, I would suggest a sharkbite valve for replacement. Easy to install and they don't leak.

SharkBite Valves: Brass, PEX, Quick Connect & Push-Fit Ball Valves

BigBadDad · 06-19-2015, 03:30 PM

PVC valves are horrible. I bought my Bounder new and very early on replaced that ball valve with a brass valve. (either ball valve or gate valve would be fine). I cut it off with an oscillating tool, slapped on a threaded adapter for the new valve and used soft tubing for new drain output. Easy and gives you flexibility to do it how you want. I capped off the old hard drain that tied into the overflow line. I also put a ball valve on the water heater heater drain with a hose bib outlet.....just put on a short piece of hose, flip the valve and it's draining. Can drain both tanks in no time with not effort and getting it set up was not hard.

Theroughlife · 06-21-2015, 01:01 PM

thanks for the help. so far I am using a vise grip and was able to close the valve.

Sky_Boss · 06-21-2015, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gruelens

If there is room to get the old valve out or cut it out, I would suggest a sharkbite valve for replacement. Easy to install and they don't leak.

SharkBite Valves: Brass, PEX, Quick Connect & Push-Fit Ball Valves

I'm in the process of redoing my water bay because of a leaking city water valve and adding a powered water reel while at it. I'm using a lot of PEX but I DO NOT recommend Sharkbite fittings unless they are easy to access. As an example I am using a Sharkbite check valve but it will be mounted in plain view as seen in the attached picture. The reason I won't use them in out of sight places is because of the vibration they will be subjected to when traveling. For that reason I am using stainless steel crimps in all other places.

YMMV

gruelens · 06-21-2015, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

I'm in the process of redoing my water bay because of a leaking city water valve and adding a powered water reel while at it. I'm using a lot of PEX but I DO NOT recommend Sharkbite fittings unless they are easy to access. As an example I am using a Sharkbite check valve but it will be mounted in plain view as seen in the attached picture. The reason I won't use them in out of sight places is because of the vibration they will be subjected to when traveling. For that reason I am using stainless steel crimps in all other places.

YMMV

I suggested Sharkbite fittings because the OP had limited space available to work and only one fitting needed (as they are expensive). If the application is PEX then Sharkbite would save the cost of a crimper tool providing there is space to use it.

I do not know of any documented case of a Sharkbite fitting failure do to vibration similar to that in a wet bay. Inquiring minds want to know???

Sky_Boss · 06-21-2015, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gruelens

I suggested Sharkbite fittings because the OP had limited space available to work and only one fitting needed (as they are expensive). If the application is PEX then Sharkbite would save the cost of a crimper tool providing there is space to use it.

I do not know of any documented case of a Sharkbite fitting failure do to vibration similar to that in a wet bay. Inquiring minds want to know???

I know about the limited space...trust me. LOL While reaching back to replace the valve might sound simple there isn't much that I found simple. Nearly all the work is done in the blind. Brackets that were use to secure the original valve won't fit the newer valves having a need to redo them. Could it all be done in the blind...I suppose so but my knuckles will hate me. So...perhaps since I am doing a total rebuild of the water bay "taints" my opinion.

Do you know what kind of pipe/tubing the OP has that connects things? I don't but I do know that it can be a little of this and a little of that. I know that in my case it isn't easy to replace the city water valve without removing the whole panel. So in MY case I have chosen my course of actions.

So...I don't think it is necessary for me to produce documentation that you seem to need. I gave a reason why I choose not to use and do not recommend the use Sharkbite fittings in tight places in a house that bounces around.

Again...YMMV

Scottybdivin · 06-21-2015, 05:06 PM

Funny that I should find this topic today. Today I was going to drain the fresh tank to disinfect and re-fill with new water. The black plastic handle on the brass ball valve just spun around and wouldn't open the valve. The screw holding it in place was either stripped or corroded. I elected to pry off the plastic handle, which broke into several pieces. Then I was able to access the stem on the valve to open and close it with a very small wrench. Now the question is, do I want to cut it apart (PEX) and replace the valve or just continue to use the wrench. I probably will not use the valve more than a couple times a year. The valve works fine with the wrench.

I have valves scattered all over my 18 ac property, irrigation, multiple wells, storage tanks, booster pumps, etc. 20 years ago, I installed a lot of brass valves but have evolved into PVC ball valves. The weak link on brass valves, whether ball or gate valves has always been the handles. I have not had one failure of a PVC ball valve on my property over the last 10 or so years.

Sky_Boss · 06-21-2015, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scottybdivin

...I elected to pry off the plastic handle, which broke into several pieces. Then I was able to access the stem on the valve to open and close it with a very small wrench. Now the question is, do I want to cut it apart (PEX) and replace the valve or just continue to use the wrench. I probably will not use the valve more than a couple times a year. The valve works fine with the wrench.

As long as you can get it to close with the wrench...replace it when you want to and have the time. We move around enough that we fill the fresh water tank several times a year. We found we needed to replace it because it lost its seal and now the water pump cycles on and off when using it. I also had intermittent leaking behind the fresh water inlet us my bigger project. LOL