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Old 12-08-2015, 06:06 PM   #15
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I finally found my front end rattle to be caused by the broken rubber radiator mounts. Easily replaced w/o draining the radiator. It sounded just like a broken or loose shock mount, but less frequent. Check them out if you have them.


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Old 12-08-2015, 10:57 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by holycow View Post
Crawling underneath to remove locking pins should not be necessary. They are usually accessible by opening the compartment door. open door, remove pins, slide unit out.
I suspect your arrangement is quite different from mine. To access the generator, I pull a single handle, and the generator pulls out from the front of the coach. The door is attached to the slide mechanism. There is no other access to the generator or slide mechanism other than by opening the generator slide or crawling underneath the generator.

I spent about 20 minutes under the coach examining the generator slide. There is no sign of any secondary latch or pins. In fact, it would be difficult to add pins. The suspension blocks the slide rails near the back of the slide mechanism. I don't think it would be possible to drill through the slides - just too much stuff in the way.

At this point, it looks like the solution might be to use ratchet tie downs on the back end of the slide to tighten it to the frame rails.

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Old 12-08-2015, 11:03 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-PHartley View Post
I finally found my front end rattle to be caused by the broken rubber radiator mounts. Easily replaced w/o draining the radiator. It sounded just like a broken or loose shock mount, but less frequent. Check them out if you have them.


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DO you have a front engine? Mine is in the back. My sound is just like a broken or loose shock mount, and just as frequent. On a rough road, it will be knocking every second or two. It is definitely metal to metal, in the front, and something heavy. I have replaced the shocks, trailing arm bushings, and air bags for mostly other reasons. The only thing that still moves is the generator, and the sound is in the right place.

Thanks for the idea!

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Old 12-08-2015, 11:09 PM   #18
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Stop by some place that does a lot of automotive work and ask to buy some shock absorber gromments.

The ones used on shocks that have the stud on top.

Get under the unit and mark where the end of the drawer lands.

Now hold a gromments where the drawer would rest against it...usually on the side of the frame just past the end of the slide rail.

Mark that spot.

Now slide out genny and bolt a gromment just forward of marked spot so slide must rest again rubber.

You can trim the rubber if needed but that should help.
A great tip, but it can't easily be applied to my configuration. The slide mechanism is welded to the frame by cross pieces, and does not use the frame as part of the structure. The slide rails, inside and outside, are of equal length.

I am still considering your good suggestion, but as of yet, I see not way to implement it without shortening one of the slide rails. Maybe the rubber cushion could be mounted inside the rail...

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Old 12-09-2015, 03:02 AM   #19
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The generator is tightly attached to the drawer. There is play in the drawer mechanism, but it all looks original - nothing I can see to repair or replace.

The latch mechanism is substantial. A single handle, through two chains, activates two separate latches, one on each side. Each latch has two locking pawls, about 1/4 inch steel that interlock when closed, completely capturing the pin. It looks very much like the latch on a car door, but there are four total pawls, and not one.

I went under the RV and inspected the latches when closed - there is no play. I think the noise is coming from the back of the drawer mechanism.

Though not elegant and some trouble, I am thinking about locking the back ends of the drawer slides with c-clamps to see if that solves the problem.

Matt B

What you describe sounds similar to a car door. Are the pins adjustable like on a car door?


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Old 12-13-2015, 10:10 AM   #20
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The pins are adjustable, but I think they are in a good place. They latch easily when the door is closed, in line with the travel of the slide mechanism. Adjusting the latches (actually the pins) in and out would move the door out from the RV, or make the door tighter against the body. Adjusting the latches up or down would put the weight of the generator on the latch and pins instead of on the slide mechanism, and make it real difficult to close properly.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GA Navigator View Post
What you describe sounds similar to a car door. Are the pins adjustable like on a car door?


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