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Old 07-20-2018, 11:31 AM   #1
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Front Power Gear Leveling Jacks Won't Retract

I have a 2000 Bounder 36S with an older Power Gear hydraulic leveling system. I had the leveling jacks down for about a week. I went to retract them and the front jacks only came up about 3 inches. The rear jacks retracted fully.

I tried to find a procedure to retract them manually with no luck. So I disconnected the hydraulic lines at each jack and used a 2x4 and a cinder block as a lever to push them up. Got a good spraying of ATF all over the engine bay and myself, but they went up once the fluid was out.

I tried extending them again, and they extended and got stuck in the down position. Again, I relieved the hydraulic pressure at the jacks again - got another spray down of ATF. The ATF level became so low at this point it set off the constant alarm on the panel. I refilled the reservoir located behind my batteries in the compartment located below the drivers seat.

Now all the leveling jacks, front and rear don't want to move at all. I can hear the motor (?) trying to do something when I press the buttons on the control panel, just no movement of the jacks.

Any ideas? Maybe a control panel?
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:33 AM   #2
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Low ATF level in the tank?
You never mentioned if it was full when everything is up.
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IggyTech View Post
Low ATF level in the tank?
You never mentioned if it was full when everything is up.
The ATF is now full. After getting sprayed twice, I had to fill it. So the jacks are all up at this point. The tank is full. Still no operation now other than hearing the pump trying to do something. I did all this with the emergency brake on. The control pad will not operate without the brake on.
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:49 AM   #4
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I wonder if you’re air locked. Could be with having to open the system up then refill it. Mine has a process to purge the air but I’m not sure on yours. ATF baths leave a lot to be desired I know.
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:06 PM   #5
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I wonder if you’re air locked. Could be with having to open the system up then refill it. Mine has a process to purge the air but I’m not sure on yours. ATF baths leave a lot to be desired I know.
I thought about that too. I know it had to suck in some air after the hoses were disconnected. But I don't know enough about the system to purge it. And this Lippert system is now obsolete. The previous owner left no information on the leveling system.

I just contacted Lippert directly, and they aren't sure about the system without part numbers for each component. The jacks themselves have no part number marking left on them. I was able to give them a part number for the controller. They told me the controller is obsolete and that it had problems reported by users (then why did they make it?). They sent me a pdf of a replacement controller and wiring that they think MAY fix it. But it involves rewiring the system. The coils, dump valve, and float switch used to be connected to 12V, with the new harness they are connected to ground. It also removes the controller box, and I have no idea where it is located.

Owning a used motorhome is so much fun sometimes. I've attached a copy of the pdf to show the new controller wiring.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 1010001131 Replacement of Obsolete Manual Levelling.pdf (1.93 MB, 36 views)
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:13 PM   #6
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Jacks that won't come up

With the jacks down, wipe the shafts with a rag thats been soaked in hyd fluid. This cleans and lubricates the shafts. Do this especially if the jacks have been down for more than a few day and/or a dusty environment. Some people spray with silicon or WD40. Almost anything will work. The goal is to clean the shaft and to put a coating of lubricant on the shafts.

PRIMING PUMP

If the tank is full, The pump should self prime. However, remove one of the front hyd hoses and put it in a bucket. Then press the buttons to lower the front jacks. You only need to do this until you see fluid gushing out of the hose.

PURGING

You will need to purge the lines. Run all the jacks down as far as they will go. Let sit for a couple minutes to allow trapped air to rise to the top of the cylinder, then retract the jacks. Refill the tank.

Do this a couple times or until you no longer need to add anything to the tank.

If you look on my "DOWNLOAD" page, you'll see a link that will show you all the files I have on my site. I have several files about the PG system.

http://www.1999southwind.com/


..
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
Jacks that won't come up

With the jacks down, wipe the shafts with a rag thats been soaked in hyd fluid. This cleans and lubricates the shafts. Do this especially if the jacks have been down for more than a few day and/or a dusty environment. Some people spray with silicon or WD40. Almost anything will work. The goal is to clean the shaft and to put a coating of lubricant on the shafts.

PRIMING PUMP

If the tank is full, The pump should self prime. However, remove one of the front hyd hoses and put it in a bucket. Then press the buttons to lower the front jacks. You only need to do this until you see fluid gushing out of the hose.

PURGING

You will need to purge the lines. Run all the jacks down as far as they will go. Let sit for a couple minutes, then retract the jacks. Refill the tank.

Do this a couple times or until you no longer need to add anything to the tank.

If you look on my "DOWNLOAD" page, you'll see a link that will show you all the files I have on my site. I have several files about the PG system.
So it's basically like bleeding brake lines. Thank you for the excellent explanation! And wow, your download page is chocked with information. Thank you!
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:23 PM   #8
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TADA;

Did they tell you how much the new controller and control box cost??

Mine is OK, but I just ordered some switches to make a new controller. I want to add a feature that I can raise each jack individually..
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
TADA;

Did they tell you how much the new controller and control box cost??

Mine is OK, but I just ordered some switches to make a new controller. I want to add a feature that I can raise each jack individually..
I have the controller system shown on the right of the page - the touch pad 500456 and the control box 500457. The new control 500731 no longer uses the control box. It's part of the Power Gear Manual Leveling Control Replacement Kit (P/N 1010001131). The cost is $642.95.

Here's a link to it https://store.lci1.com/kit-lv-manual...ace-1010001131

But going back to the original problem, what do you think caused the front leveling jacks to get stuck in the extended position? Just dirty?
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:47 PM   #10
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Dirty... If the shafts are dry and dirty, the rubber o-rings act like brakes. The shafts need to be clean and lubed so the shaft will slide past the o-rings.

Quote:
The cost is $642.95.
WOW - I need to get to work on my controller.....
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Old 07-20-2018, 01:30 PM   #11
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Another question and some advice needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
Dirty... If the shafts are dry and dirty, the rubber o-rings act like brakes. The shafts need to be clean and lubed so the shaft will slide past the o-rings.



WOW - I need to get to work on my controller.....
Does the pump drive the slide as well? Will it need to be purged also?

As for the advice, I have my rig in the shop right now getting its roof coated and two new ACs installed. I didn’t want to tackle that myself. I was going to have them look at the leveling jacks, but they haven’t gotten to them yet. They have theories of bent jack legs or bad valves. After looking at all the information in your downloads on PG, I think I may be able to troubleshoot and fix this myself. I’m a good mechanic and have all the tools needed. Do you think I should tell them to not worry about the jacks and handle it myself? I’m not made of money, and I don’t want to pay for guess work. Thanks, Tom
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:28 PM   #12
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I like to say that if I can do it, anyone can do it.. But that usually gets people in trouble..

I either pay someone to learn the systems, or I learn the systems..

Quote:
Does the pump drive the slide as well? Will it need to be purged also?
Probably not.. If I was going to guess, Id say your Bounder is almost identical to my Southwind as far as the systems go.

My slide is a Power Gear. Its an electric motor that drives a gearbox that drives two racks.
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
I like to say that if I can do it, anyone can do it.. But that usually gets people in trouble..

I either pay someone to learn the systems, or I learn the systems..

Probably not.. If I was going to guess, Id say your Bounder is almost identical to my Southwind as far as the systems go.

My slide is a Power Gear. Its an electric motor that drives a gearbox that drives two racks.
Thank for the quick response. I think I'll take this on. I'd rather know all I can about what I have so I'm not so dependent when things fail in the future.
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