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Old 01-28-2016, 03:38 PM   #15
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Ropetin,
Well Sir, you've been given an array of answers to your dilemma. The majority, including myself, do not really applaud the idea of wheels hanging while camping. Sure, there's lots of folks that do it but, that doesn't mean it's the best way, or safest, or smartest. It's just EASIER for some than getting out and putting some lumber down to drive on.

This stuff isn't rocket science. You don't have to be a NASA engineer to figure that, if the ground you're putting your coach on is NOT LEVEL, then you have to do what Clint Eastwood stated in the movie, "Breakheart Ridge". And that is, you have ADAPT, OVERCOME and, IMPROVISE!!!!

And that means, carry some lumber, just for the situations you encounter that your leveling system has a hard time with. You can buy commercially made ones or, you can do what many of us have done and that is, make your own, out of wood. I don't know how handy you are or, what kind of skills and tools you have but, it's not hard, nor technical.

One thing is, solid core lumber, as in, 2"x4", 2"x6", 2"x8" or 2"x10" etc. is grained lumber and, just about always will crack. If not immediately, it will eventually, depending on the surface it's laid and driven on. Now Plywood, is a good alternative and, it's somewhat flexible. It can actually "bend" a tad without cracking or disintegrating.

I use both in my construction. I use the lumber core for the center of my blocks and, plywood for the outer surfaces. Each and every one is glued and screwed together with maximum length screws. When I'm done with the fabrication of them, I do a tad bit of sanding, (not much) and then a couple of coats of Marine or Spar varnish for some protection and preservation.

After they're all cured, I then install some "Mule Tape" handles. And, I install those handles on both sides of the blocks. That way, there's no orientation to them. They can be installed under the coach in either direction and, the handles still show which, makes for easy retraction when it comes time for leaving.

Anyway, that's what I do. As for your situation. I've done "digging" at many camp sites. In fact, I've dug for one set of tires while I've driven up on the opposite side, or end for that matter, so that as one side "drops in" the other side is raising, which, means that neither side or end, has that far to travel. All this is done to PRIMARILY level the coach. Then, the jacks are used to FINE TUNE, the leveling for optimum level. Personally, I'm not too worried about what the campground owners, or operators think about me digging. If they are concerned, THEN LEVEL THE CAMP SITES in the first place so we campers don't have to do it to use it.

As has been stated, much of the problem with carrying a small lumber yard is, where to carry it, in or around the coach compartments. Some folks just don't have much room. Well, that's something that needs to be addressed. To me, it's a priority to carry that lumber as, I've been in countless situations where it was DEFINITELY NEEDED. You'll have to decide that for yourself. Below are some examples of what I've made and carry in our coach for leveling.
Scott

P.S. Also as has been stated, it's your refrigerator that is the most important reason for leveling. I won't go into the technological aspects of how it operates but, suffice to say that, it needs to be as close to level as possible for maximum efficiency and preservation. If, after you've satisfied the fridges needs for level, your coach seems a tad off, so be it. What's more important, a $3000.00 refrigerator or, a door that wants to close on its own due to a bit off level?





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Old 01-28-2016, 06:00 PM   #16
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It is laughable on how many times I have to argue with owners about what a level site is and is not. It's plain and simple, put a level on it. Is it level? I don't want to know about how many other rv's park there and don't complain about it being level or not.
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:26 PM   #17
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One caution about ramps. That is that they should be wide enough to support the full width of the tire tread.
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:58 PM   #18
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We dry camp at race tracks all the time and have seen some pretty crazy situations. I carry 6 bags of lynks levelers and have used them in every sort of situation you can imagine. I have at times had my front wheel hang a few inches above the ground which on my gas coach doesnt hurt a thing although I try not to do it. With the leveler blocks its you can assemble them like legos and having enough makes the job easy. You get pretty good at it after a while.
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:05 PM   #19
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FIRE UP, I'm not going to lie, those are some nice looking ramps and blocks. You should market those, I'd certainly buy a set from you. As it is now, I got some Lynx Levelers from Wally World, and they seem to be doing the trick.

Thanks again everyone, for putting up with a newb like me asking silly questions all the time
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:28 PM   #20
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The jack system was put on your coach so it could be parked LEVEL. It makes absolutely no difference whatsoever if the front wheels are off the ground when the coach is LEVEL.

I have never understood how having a few pieces of wood under the wheels when there may be only 10 pounds of weight on those wheels makes some people feel safer. Makes no sense.
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Old 01-28-2016, 10:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ropetin View Post
FIRE UP, I'm not going to lie, those are some nice looking ramps and blocks. You should market those, I'd certainly buy a set from you. As it is now, I got some Lynx Levelers from Wally World, and they seem to be doing the trick.

Thanks again everyone, for putting up with a newb like me asking silly questions all the time
Ropetin,
I surely thank you for the nice comments. I figure if one is going to go through the effort to make any sort of blocks, ramps etc., then you might as well do it right. In one of my pics, you see solid core 4"x10" x 22" ramps. As stated before, solid core lumber WILL CRACK. When it cracks, it's useless. So, that is why I sandwich my blocks. As for the other ramps, those are made of 1 1/8", tongue and groove, decking plywood, sold at Home Depot for $54.00 a sheet, for 49"x97". Each ramp is 9 1/4" wide and is comprised of four layers of that 1 1/8" plywood. They are seriously strong ramps. They will last for decades.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich-n-Linda View Post
The jack system was put on your coach so it could be parked LEVEL. It makes absolutely no difference whatsoever if the front wheels are off the ground when the coach is LEVEL.

I have never understood how having a few pieces of wood under the wheels when there may be only 10 pounds of weight on those wheels makes some people feel safer. Makes no sense.
Rich-n-Linda,
Your somewhat right in terms of the reason for jacks on any particular coach. But, each and every situation, campsite, RV park site, boon dock site, and much, much more, is different. Some are much more un-level than others. Jacks CAN'T ALWAYS DO THE TRICK. On a gas coach, with standard suspension, the jacks, many times, run out of extension before the coach is level due to the fact that they have to travel so far, because the coach is up high in the first place.

On many, if not almost all Diesel coaches, they drop in height due to air suspension prior to leveling. So, the jacks don't have nearly as far to travel. But, again, all situations are different. To say that only TEN POUNDS of weight on the tires when the jacks are down and the coach is level, is a bit off in reality. Having a coach with the front tires suspended due to the jacks at or close to the maximum extension, is not as stable as one that the owner has driven up on some blocks or ramps with the front tires and, therefore the jacks are not extended so far and, are more stable.

This is a preference thing. If folks don't want to carry any blocks, or take the time to drive on them when conditions warrant them to, to assist in leveling operations so the jacks aren't fully extended, it's surely up to them. Having all the tires touching the ground and all the jacks just simply provides more stability. Everyone's got to do what they feel is right for them.
Scott
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Old 01-30-2016, 08:00 AM   #22
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I have Lippert hydraulic levelers on my HM and the manual says not to lift the wheels off the ground. This may have been written by their lawyers since the system is very capable of lifting the MH. I've done it a few times with no bad result but have never felt comfortable without all the wheels touching the ground. The lumber blocking material works well but it's heavy and bulky. I have two stacks of the orange plastic Lynx levelers and they work well both under the wheels and and hydraulic leveler pads. I also use the big yellow Camco jack pads on soft ground.

I stole and idea from someone on this forum and started carrying as small hoe in the HM. I use it when leveling the HM on a site the is not level and the ground is soft. I just dig out a depression in front or behind the wheels that are too high and roll the MH wheel into the depression. It normally gets me level enough so I can get the MH level using the coach hydraulic leveling system with out the Lynx levelers under the wheels. When I leave the MH will just drive out of the depression and I fill it in using the hoe. The hoe also comes in handy for placing and retrieving the jack pads under the MH without having to bend over or get on my knees, as well as other uses when I remember that I have it.
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Old 01-31-2016, 06:30 PM   #23
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Skip dragging around all the heavy lumber in a gasser. Get some Lynx levelers; they work fine and they are lightweight. You might also need to put a couple under the front jacks to avoid hyper-extending them if the front needs to go really high.
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Old 01-31-2016, 06:37 PM   #24
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Main concern is your RV refrigerator. It needs to be fairly level. Front wheels off the ground are not an issue. I frequently park with my front wheels 8" or more off the ground for months at a time.
Same here
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:27 PM   #25
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The lippert manual says not to raise ALL the wheels off the ground . Raising the fronts will not hurt anything, the warning is so you don 't get all the wheels up in the Air at one time.
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:42 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich-n-Linda View Post
The jack system was put on your coach so it could be parked LEVEL. It makes absolutely no difference whatsoever if the front wheels are off the ground when the coach is LEVEL.

I have never understood how having a few pieces of wood under the wheels when there may be only 10 pounds of weight on those wheels makes some people feel safer. Makes no sense.

My feelings too. I guess it does help it be more stable in wind because of the stance.


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Old 01-31-2016, 08:05 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
..........



..........
........ Having a coach with the front tires suspended due to the jacks at or close to the maximum extension, is not as stable as one that the owner has driven up on some blocks or ramps with the front tires and, therefore the jacks are not extended so far and, are more stable.

.........
Scott
Your jacks extend from the bottom of the coach, not the tires. Whether you put ramps under the wheels or not will not change the amount of jack travel required to achieve a level coach.

If someone is having issues with jack extension they should put the blocks under the jacks.

Ultimately if you have four jacks under your rig it should be stable. If your rig achieves and maintains level then you shouldn't have any slide issues.
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Old 02-01-2016, 10:40 AM   #28
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Your jacks extend from the bottom of the coach, not the tires. Whether you put ramps under the wheels or not will not change the amount of jack travel required to achieve a level coach.

If someone is having issues with jack extension they should put the blocks under the jacks.

Ultimately if you have four jacks under your rig it should be stable. If your rig achieves and maintains level then you shouldn't have any slide issues.
Huh????????
First of all, It's pretty much a given that ALL jacks extend from the bottom of the coach, as in the frame, not any place or area or part of the coach. Second, "Whether you put ramps under the wheels or not change the amount of jack travel required to achieve a level coach".

If a coach parkes on an unlevel, say, end to end surface, with the front being lower than the rear, then the front jacks will have to TRY and extend ENOUGH to bring that front end up, high enough to acheive level, right? But, if the coach is driven up on blocks/ramps, whatever, and is basically level by doing so, then yes, the jacks will have to extend but, they won't be doing all the work and, there will not be nearly as much strain on them and, due to the fact that the tires and wheels are still in contact with the ground, AND are taking all the lateral (side to side) potential movement, then the Jacks are there for fine tuning and, additional stabilization.

But, if and when I encounter the above situation, I will place blocks under the jacks too so they don't have to travel as far.

The debate whether to use blocks or ramps etc. under the tires is age old. It's a matter of choice. If one doesn't feel the need and would rather HANG an axle, that's purely up to them, it's their coach. If one chooses to carry and use blocks, ramps and anything else in assistance with leveling, even when they have fully automatic jacking systems, that too is up to them.

Scott
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