Community Forums

Upinsmoke · 08-13-2017, 03:25 AM

2015 Winn Itasca Sunstar 35F. We're somewhat new to winter travel/camping and want to prevent, to the extent possible, any frozen pipes. It's not that we go out looking for freezing temps, it's more like we get caught in them. 3 inches of snow first night out last year! I've heard everything from "don't worry about it" to small light bulbs in compartments where there's water - service compartment as an example. Any quick tips, tricks, or possibly an "sticky" post I can turn to? Thanks - always great help here.

marjoa · 08-13-2017, 04:18 AM

Insulating my wet bay - post 9
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/froz...ml#post3381222

l1v3fr33ord1 · 08-13-2017, 05:51 AM

Upinsmoke-

Do you plan on camping in freezing temperatures, or moving through them (as a snowbirder would)? If you plan on camping in freezing temperatures, how many times in a season, and for how long each time?

Check your owner's manual and see what it has to say.

You take similar precautions for your coach as you would for your house. The difference is, a house may have a heated basement and R-19-or-better insulation, and the coach, well ...

jacwjames · 08-13-2017, 06:36 AM

I camped in cold below freezing temps for extended time when I moved to Upper Michigan in Mar, Got 2' of snow in April and snow stayed on ground until Mid May. It was a ice box. I only had 20 amp outlets for service and did not want to rely on propane. I did use the propane furnace occasionally to take the chill off.

Here's what I did

Prior to moving I insulated between the rails on the chassis as there was minimal done from factory.

I installed remote temperature sensors so I know what outside temp was, temp in basement wet bay. I could monitor temps and confirm that it was not getting too cold in the wet bay area.

I did not leave water or sewer hooked up.

I rigged up 2 high wattage lamps in wet bay, I also have a 12 volt heater in the bay and made sure it worked. These were back up heat source, my primary source was a small 120 volt heater connected to a thermostatically controlled plug.

I used a radiant heater in the LR area of the coach. During really cold nights I would leave the base cabinet doors open to prevent pipes from freezing. Always turned off water pump in the event something did freeze and bust the pump would start pumping water when it thawed. Never did freeze any lines.

Some mornings when I woke up it would be close to freezing in the coach itself. Many nights the outside temps in the low teens. Made it through without any major problems.

Upinsmoke · 08-14-2017, 01:12 AM

Great ideas. How/what did you insulate between the frame rails? Any pics? Leaving indoor cabinets open and water pump off is also great idea. Thanks.

Upinsmoke · 08-14-2017, 01:17 AM

Yes. our exact plan is to snowbird to FL from MD for 3 months - like every other northern camper

. It was in VA that we got snow last year and it's no unheard of to have freezing temps in the pan handle and the northern part of the east coast of FL. I double check owners manual but I don't believe it covered camping in freezing temps. I don't expect freezing temps will happen that often but I'd like to have a plan ahead of time. Probably not much worse than a water leak in a RV. Thanks.

marjoa · 08-14-2017, 03:44 AM

BTW...put your MH information into your signature
Take a couple of minutes to fill out your signature with information about your motorhome (MH) This will really help in all future posts so you don't have to type it every time.
You do this by:
1) Going to the top of this page and click the top left tab named “User CP”
2) Look at the menu on the left and scroll down to “Settings & Options” and click “Edit Signature”
3) In that text box type all the information about your MH. Year, model, length, mileage, any aftermarket extras installed and so on.

Hikerdogs · 08-14-2017, 07:51 AM

Your motorhome has heated storage compartments. As such the water tanks (fresh, Grey, and Black) along with the associated plumbing (including the outdoor shower) are heated by the propane furnace. There are openings to each of these compartments to let air warmed by the propane furnace circulate.

In addition if you have the "Motoraid" water heater option you may also have an in floor heater (with a fan switch on the dash) that uses the same ducts as the furnace to heat the passenger and storage compartments.

Looking at the brochure I see the Motoraid heater as an option. However the in floor heater is not mentioned. Our Adventurer has the Motoraid water heater, and also mentions the in floor heater:

10-gallon water heater, 110 V/LP gas w/motoraid

and auxiliary auto heater

Even if you don't have the auxiliary heater you can set the furnace thermostat to about 55 degrees to keep all the plumbing warm. We have camped in areas where the temperatures were continually in the lower teens. With the furnace thermostat set to 55* the compartments stayed in the mid 40's. We have a remote thermometer in the water cabinet, one in the fresh water tank compartment, and a third measuring ambient temperature in the propane tank area to monitor all critical areas.

According to the owners manual the furnace can run while traveling down the road. We have never had to use the furnace while traveling because the auxiliary heater in our coach keeps the compartments warm.

sbleiweiss · 08-14-2017, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hikerdogs

We have a remote thermometer in the water cabinet, one in the fresh water tank compartment, and a third measuring ambient temperature in the propane tank area to monitor all critical areas.

Isn't your propane tank compartment open on the bottom? I thought this was universal. If so, what good does monitoring its temperature do?

Hikerdogs · 08-14-2017, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

Isn't your propane tank compartment open on the bottom? I thought this was universal. If so, what good does monitoring its temperature do?

Yes the propane compartment is open to the atmosphere. The thermometer in the propane compartment gives the true outdoor temperature.

We also have a thermometer in the engine compartment as part of the Ford chassis, and another remote on the left rear side of the coach. These can be influenced by direct sun light or engine heat.

If the one in the propane compartment shows the temperature to be above freezing we don't leave the furnace on when we're gone for the day. The others can be as much as 20 to 30 degrees higher that the actual temperature depending on whether we just stopped for the evening or the position of the sun.

Upinsmoke · 08-15-2017, 02:01 AM

majora: Done, thanks for the great idea. Saw them but had never considered doing it.

Upinsmoke · 08-15-2017, 02:29 AM

Hikerdogs: Thanks for the info. We do have the Motoaid(?) heater where the vehicle engine provides hot water, but don't believe it heats the coach in any way. I like the idea of a thermometer in the LP bay and also the water bay. Do you have a brand/model that has been working reliably for you? Is there an option for more than one sensor per unit with only one thermometer base?
In our coach, the AC units are also heat pumps which we use if we are hooked to campground electricity. They'll keep it plenty above freezing but do you know if this heat will then make it's way to the compartments without the aid of the furnace fan? Maybe just turn on the "fan" portion of the furnace?

vsheetz · 08-15-2017, 02:50 AM

Don't connect water and sewer.
Know if your furnace heats the wet bay / holding tanks area.
600w electric heater in wet bay and water heater.
Electric space heaters inside if they will provide for the need and you have enough shore power available, else the propane furnace.
Outside wireless thermometers/sensors - in the wet bay, at the water heater, and outside away from the coach.
Pulling in one or more slides can help as they are usually not well insulated and leak air.
Down comforter on the bed - this goes a long way to keeping warm through the night and minimizing heating needs.

On my current and previous coaches there were dual propane furnaces. The rear was all usually needed through the night to warm the bedroom and also the holding tanks.

If you are dry camping without shore power then the propane furnace will be primary source of heating. The fan(s) are hungry for 12vdc from your batteries, so ensure the batteries are in good shape and well charged before going to sleep. They will likely need charged upon waking.

Hikerdogs · 08-15-2017, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Upinsmoke

Hikerdogs: Thanks for the info. We do have the Motoaid(?) heater where the vehicle engine provides hot water, but don't believe it heats the coach in any way. I like the idea of a thermometer in the LP bay and also the water bay. Do you have a brand/model that has been working reliably for you? Is there an option for more than one sensor per unit with only one thermometer base?
In our coach, the AC units are also heat pumps which we use if we are hooked to campground electricity. They'll keep it plenty above freezing but do you know if this heat will then make it's way to the compartments without the aid of the furnace fan? Maybe just turn on the "fan" portion of the furnace?

For the thermometer we use a La Crosse 9160.

WS-9160U-IT Wireless Weather Station

We purchased it at our local farm store with 2 remote sensors. We ordered the third sensor from La Crosse. Depending on where you purchase it there are kits that come with three sensors. The base has three communication channels. Each sensor can be set for a different channel.

The AC/Heat Pumps will not heat the storage and water compartments. They do not use the floor ducting for air distribution. Also since they use an air to air heat exchange system they will not work much below 40*F.