Full body paint waxing question

[stevewitt1]

Thanks Radio Flyer! I've had F11 Ads hit me on YouTube quite a often. I think they may have been triggered by my searching for McGuire. They make some tall claims and I'm glad to hear from someone with first hand experience. I'll give it a try.


Steve


[moderator edit]

[KathyandMark]

Your post is so helpful. Thank you for breaking down the different types of waxes, etc. Your coach is absolutely beautiful.
Thank you again!!

Originally Posted by Betr2Trvl

Detailing is a passion for me. Many people may think I’m nuts, but I thoroughly enjoy the time and effort I put into this on all my vehicles. I’m just trying to help and while some of my remarks may come off as snide comments, I’m simply trying to set expectations for folks.

Let’s start out with a simple clarification - a “sealer” is not a “sealant”; a sealant is simply a synthetic / polymer based “wax” vs. natural carnuba based wax (definitions below). For RVs, a sealant is simply more practical vs. a wax.

Unless you are a going to get very serious about your paint, the difference between one wax or sealant product / brand or the other, is going to be generally negligible as long as they are appropriate products for the application.

And, whatever wax or sealant you choose, what is even more important is how much care is taken to wash and dry your vehicle...... more on that in the links below.

Some definitions below from Griot’s Garage for clarification to start with.

Each product focuses on a particular paint condition and treats varying degrees of durability, clarity, longevity, and defect removal capability.

NATURAL WAX FORMULA - CARNAUBA
Carnauba-based formulas offer good durability and exceptional clarity and gloss. For those who enjoy waxing and are willing to do it more often to achieve a truly show-stopping appearance, Carnauba-based waxes are a great solution.

SYNTHETIC FORMULAS - SEALANTS
Synthetic formulas typically offer the best and longest lasting protection and are ideal for daily driven vehicles. Synthetic formulas are ideal for those who prefer to wax less often (1 or 2 times per year).

CLEANER WAX OR "ALL-IN-ONE" FORMULAS
These products gently remove light defects, restore gloss and color, and add a durable layer of protection. They offer time-saving convenience during application but they do, however, need to be applied more often, typically 3 or 4 times per year for the best results.

SPRAY WAXES
Adding a quick pop of color and protection, these wax products feature easy spray-on or foam-on application and can be used as part of your drying ritual or as a stand-alone enhancer that extends the time between major waxings.

I’ll also add that you can use a detailing spray in the same manner as is noted for Spray on Waxes, but detailing spray usually does not have the same level of wax content. Nor, is either a Spray on Wax or Detailing Spray a “stand-alone” product to replace a “regular” wax / sealant. As I have noted in other posts, I apply a detailing spray to the wet panels as I dry my coach.

Applying a wax over a sealant is getting into some serious nuances of detailing which I just don’t think is very practical for RVs....... There is really no need to apply a wax over a sealant on an RV, unless it’s simply applying a Spray on Wax as noted above.

A wax / sealant is not a “polish” either, except to the point a cleaner wax / sealant (as described above) has a small level of polishing abrasives. A polish contains abrasives that “correct” / remove defects in the paint, and in most cases need to be applied by machine. After polishing, a wax / sealant needs to be applied. More on polishing in the links below.

Two other products you may see mentioned as finishes: Glazes and Ceramic Coatings (also referenced at times in the links below).

Ceramic Coatings are relatively new, and unless you are a serious detailer, best left to be applied by pros, and expect to spend a great deal of time / money (can be many thousands) to get the paint surface defect free and prepped properly for the coating.

Glazes are used to hide defects, and have a very short life span. Often used by detailers to give a quick, great “waxed” look, that quickly dissipates by evaporation or the next time the vehicle is washed (and your money is in their pocket). As used by show car people under a wax or as a final short term finish over a wax as part of show show prep. to hide paint defects.



If you want to learn more, check out how to videos on most detailing company’s web pages. A couple to look at include Griot’s Garage and Adams Polishes, two companies that I have used many / various products for years. Autogeek also has a great site with many how to videos, but can be a bit overwhelming if you are a novice and not sure what you are looking for.

Other threads that will probably make your head spin (many of these are cross referenced within the threads).

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/wax-...nt-423046.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/wash...-384879-2.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/wash...ch-341289.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f106/best-wax-366715.html

This one may seem off topic, but relevant to a great degree
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/wax-...ff-414725.html

This one will make you think some of us are nuts
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/full...cs-364658.html


This is my (then 3 yr. old) RV after polishing then application of Griot’s Garage Polywax sealant last spring. I’m waiting to get a week of good weather to do a full exterior detail for this year, and I’ll be experimenting with a Ceramic Coating on my bay doors which will be interesting.....

My 9 year old BMW last weekend and then 8 year old Porsche 4 years ago.

[KathyandMark]

We are going with NU Finish. Thanks so much for your help

Originally Posted by Frobogey

If you have full body paint, it has been painted with basecoat / clearcoat. No need to wax . My 2008 Itasca 38j looks like new and has never been waxed. If you must do it use Nu-Finish Liquid. Quick and Easy and nothing works better or lasts longer. The only thing waxing does is make it easier to wash.

[KathyandMark]

Thank you so much for your info, and for breaking down all the different types of waxes, etc. And also thank you for the links!! Very imformative!
This forum has been so helpful. RVers really are nice people.
BTW, your rig looks awesome!

Originally Posted by lwmcguire

Wow, Detailing 101, thanks for taking the time to clarify and teach us

[KathyandMark]

Originally Posted by Frobogey

If you have full body paint, it has been painted with basecoat / clearcoat. No need to wax . My 2008 Itasca 38j looks like new and has never been waxed. If you must do it use Nu-Finish Liquid. Quick and Easy and nothing works better or lasts longer. The only thing waxing does is make it easier to wash.

Thank you so much for your help

[KathyandMark]

Originally Posted by rag_ftw

Ditto on Nu-finish. I use it everywhere except on the nose where I use Rejex. Would use Rejex everywhere but it is not the easiest to remove by hand, and I never use a buffer.


Also use Meguires car wash.

We've decided on NU Finish. Thank yo so much for your help. WE will post a pic when were done with it

[KathyandMark]

Originally Posted by drwwicks

When washing only use a car wash, not a detergent or dishwashing liquid like dawn. They will remove grime and wax. Since you are familiar with the Meguires that's a good product. I use the Meguires cleaner wax which come in a paste or cream. Does a very good job of removing excess grime/spotting and relatively easy on and off. I also use a 6" buffer. As Fire-up said it's work but the work is rewarding. I fortunately have a pole barn that I built to keep the RVs under when not used so I can clean the things under cover and not direct sun. Lots of ladder work.

Absolutely no Dawn here, we're going with Meguires. Thank you so much.

[KathyandMark]

Originally Posted by stuccosteve

Sorry for the overt comment, but the truth is every coach no matter what the finish is will suffer from oxidization and UV breakdown of the finishes. I won’t go into the differences of finish, (ie painted or Jellcoat or applied accents), but to really accent the original finish nothing beats a properly machine applied cleaner and wax. Once a year I take the time to apply a machine (buffer) cleaner and wax. Our 2001 coach looks as new as any new coach from 20’. I say that because there’s nothing I can do about all the little pits created from hitting the highway.

Thank you for your input. I have to agree about the wax. We'll post a pic when we finish

[sramsay45]

You need to look into Top Coat. It is relatively a new product but it is fantastic on all surfaces. I guarantee you will not go wrong with this product. I am not a sales person or have no interest in the company but wish I could have. It is amazing.

[KathyandMark]

Thank you so much for your take.

[KathyandMark]

Thank you, that's good to know.

[KathyandMark]

Originally Posted by botiemad

Now it's time to wax it. We don't want to mess this up. Any tips on products? We want to do this ourselves.


When CR tested the top automotive waxes, the found that none lasted more than 6 car washes, or about 3 months. The best they tested was Turtle Wax in the paste application. So, figure on waxing every 3 months, and make it easy on yourself. Use a random orbital polisher and foam pads. Toss 'em in the washer when your finished, air dry. Stay away from cleaner waxes unless you have specific needs for abrasives for scratched areas etc. Regular waxes will not remove finishes unless you use them over dirt.

Thanks Botiemad!

[KathyandMark]

Thanks so much for the info!!

[KathyandMark]

Originally Posted by Radio Flyer

Scott (Fire Up) is right… “There’s no magic elixir out there that eliminates any and all labor on protecting your valued toy.” He goes on to say “there are easier ways to do it.” That too is true. Easier? Yes. Better? Maybe, maybe not. It depends.

I’ve tried more types of wax, sealants, and coatings over the past few decades than I can count. I’ve come to favor Meguiar’s products. Until recently, that is. Don’t get me wrong, Maguiar’s products are top notch. I even bought a fairly expensive Maguiar’s MT300 Dual Action variable speed polisher. It works like a champ. Keyword: Work. I’m sure many of you are old enough to remember Dobie Gillis. Work??? But I digress…

For about a year now I’ve been using F11 Topcoat, not only on my truck, but on my full-body paint 43 foot RV. I bought the first bottle based on the recommendation of a trusted friend. It worked so well I’ve stopped using all other products and now use F11 exclusively on all my vehicles.

I was skeptical at first. It’s more expensive than similar products and the manufacturer makes some pretty lofty claims on their website. But again, it works for me. Here’s what I like about it:

• It spreads on and wipes off with very little effort. And there’s no need to use a buffer.
• It works on all surfaces, including paint, chrome, black chrome, rubber, vinyl, even glass. I put it on my windshield and it works like Rain-X.
• It does not leave any white residue on certain surfaces like some other products.
• You can apply it in the shade or in direct sunlight.
• A little goes a long way.

And the best thing I like about it is how it helps to eliminate (or at least mask) swirl marks left by hired helpers that actually did more harm than good with their electric buffers. See the attached photos!

According to the manufacturer, it works on a molecular level, seeping into the microscopic pores in the paint. And it builds upon itself to make a better, stronger, protective seal every time you use it. Or so they say. In fact, that’s the one claim that made me most skeptical. It’s like they were providing an incentive to keep buying the product over and over again. In any case, I took a chance, and I'm glad I did.

By the way, I don’t have any affiliation with these people whatsoever. And I’m not telling anybody to go out and buy it. I’m just saying it works for me, and I like it. Again, look at the attached photos.

https://topcoat.store

Thank you Radio Flyer. Such great info, and we appreciate it!