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Old 08-21-2015, 02:00 PM   #15
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Here was the leaky heater core. What a job that was lol
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:01 PM   #16
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Hello Gents
I have recently purchased an old 95 Winny 38 foot DP. The last two months are a blur fixing the hundreds of problems, lol
One of my last problems are in the furnace. It works great when I start the gen set, but when i.m on the inverter it just blows cold and doesn't appear to want to light, Bark up the gen and off it goes again.
Thanks in Advance
Rick
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The inverter is not needed for a RV propane furnace to run.
Me thinks your house batteries are discharged or bad.

BTW, a RV furnace uses/needs no inverter power...or any 120VAC...only 12VDC from the converter/battery system.

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Old 08-21-2015, 02:34 PM   #17
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replacing the wiring may have helped but so may have just remaking all the connections and just replacing any bad or corroded spade or connections. its possible the wire gauge was minimal when installed. but more likely it has just developed corroded or loose contacts. and maybe battery has dirty contacts?/ its also almost certain the fan motor is drawing more amps now that the bearings are all dirty and half rusted. IT should have a max amp draw if you have an amp meter. If you can take off the furnace access door and hold down the door interlock and turn it on and watch it go through its firing sequence with the shore or gen set on and then just 12v you should be able to see/hear where the start up sequence differs and or fails. that will help you troubleshoot things.
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:14 PM   #18
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How did you run a new wire? Were you able to fish a new one through with the old one ? What was involved to pull this off .

Thanks
My furnace is right by my batteries so it was really easy in my application.
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:47 PM   #19
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Make sure all connection are clean including the ground. Hook up a stand alone charger to your batteries. Set it to a high current setting try running the furnace. If it runs you have a low voltage problem. With 12.2 volts you close to the batteries being dead.
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Old 08-22-2015, 10:37 AM   #20
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All these troubles are why you saved so many $K$. I'm sure dealer quote for Heater core was 800$. Dealer would quote 75$/ hr with unknown total for troubleshooting furnace. Alternator probably died due to bearings in activity? What's next on our repair list?
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Old 08-22-2015, 11:02 AM   #21
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It may be a pressure switch Rather than a sail switch in the safety circuit?, or am I to old? There is Usually a overtemp, door open, flow switch ( of some type), and pilot light temp probe in the safety circuit before the gas valve can open. Some units have a flu fan that may run a silicone hose to a pressure switch to make sure it is flowing.
Not in any of the commonly used furnaces in motorhomes, even a 1995 model. They are DSI ignition (no pilot). Both Subrban and Atwood DSI furnaces use a sail switch - it is cheap and effective. Small LP furnaces that have a manual-light pilot and no fan use a different safety mechanism, but I don't think that applies here. They are usually found only in pop-ups and small trailers.
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Old 08-23-2015, 02:03 AM   #22
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All these troubles are why you saved so many $K$. I'm sure dealer quote for Heater core was 800$. Dealer would quote 75$/ hr with unknown total for troubleshooting furnace. Alternator probably died due to bearings in activity? What's next on our repair list?


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Old 08-24-2015, 08:44 AM   #23
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Kinda mean zero? I was adding encouragement for the OP.
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:30 AM   #24
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Kinda mean zero? I was adding encouragement for the OP.
What??
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:19 PM   #25
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Furnace only works on gen set

See if the heater will light with the engine running and the batteries being charged by the alternator... That should be the same as running the genny. If it lights then, you surly have a battery issue. IMHO!


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Old 08-24-2015, 11:45 PM   #26
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Kinda mean zero? I was adding encouragement for the OP.
Sorry Elkski. I was just j/k.


Thanks for the encouragement.
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:14 AM   #27
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See if the heater will light with the engine running and the batteries being charged by the alternator... That should be the same as running the genny. If it lights then, you surly have a battery issue. IMHO!


Randy W
I was playing with it over the weekend. It appears on this unit that the alternator doesn't charge the coach batteries. Only the truck batteries. Is that the norm ?

For charging these coach batteries , I think it's solar , shore or gen. .???


As suggested......I've serviced the 4 "6 volt " coach batteries and did get the furnace to light once on the batteries this weekend on a nice summer day. When the batteries are being charged from the converter from shore or solar the voltage is 14.1 or so until the batteries hit the target voltage of 14.2 then when the charge clicks "off" the voltage drops to 12.8 ish and shows one bar from fully charged or stays on charged. They appear new looking , interstate batteries. At that point I turn on the furnace and the fan turns on dropping the voltage to 12.6 ish for a bit but not to much lower. Is this acceptable voltage drop with the fan draw.

From my internet reading for deep cycle batteries 12.8 is fully charged or 100%

I have a 12 volt amp draw battery tester but the scale for the draw is meant to just test one 12 volt (cranking amps vs voltage ) so I'm not putting much stock in that.


As mentioned here The "sail switch" or low fan speed does seem to be the direction I need to go. I'm a car type guy and find it challenging how hard some of these systems are to locate and service on motorhomes. For a newbie Everything on this unit seems to be hidden. But after the heater core job, I'm still probably pouty. Lol. I found the burner vent and a tin panel I'll remove and hope to find the connections there.


Thanks guys.

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Old 08-25-2015, 07:25 AM   #28
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Yep, find the fan. Since you did the heater core I expect you to take the fan motor apart ( if possible) and clean the bushings and use some special light oil and presto it will work on 12 v again.
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