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Old 08-25-2015, 01:30 PM   #29
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Unless someone corrects me here, the alternator charges the chassis battery and feeds the inverter/converter while you are running down the road. That in turn charges your house batteries too. That keeps both the 12DC and 120AC (inverter on) items powered and working. That's the way it works on my coach. ( I'm almost certain).


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Old 08-25-2015, 01:47 PM   #30
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The alt charges the chassis battery(s). Normally, the alt should also charge the house batts. Either via a continuous duty solenoid or a bi-directional electronic system
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:51 PM   #31
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See if the heater will light with the engine running and the batteries being charged by the alternator... That should be the same as running the genny. If it lights then, you surly have a battery issue. IMHO!


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[The alt charges the chassis battery(s). Normally, the alt should also charge the house batts. Either via a continuous duty solenoid or a bi-directional electronic system which keeps both banks charged, whether running or on gen or shore power. Any inverter runs off the house batts.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:03 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwillbeit View Post
Unless someone corrects me here, the alternator charges the chassis battery and feeds the inverter/converter while you are running down the road. That in turn charges your house batteries too. That keeps both the 12DC and 120AC (inverter on) items powered and working. That's the way it works on my coach. ( I'm almost certain).
Randy W
Iwillbeit
On my coach the alternator charges both the chassis battery and the house battery bank, (through the solid state battery isolator), anytime the engine is running....There is no need to have the inverter ON when running down the road/traveling/moving...unless we need 120VAC for the crock pot or the U-Line ice maker.
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:21 AM   #33
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When I "briefly " tested the coach charge I was positive it wasn't charging. So now that you guys are telling me that the alt should charge them As well I did some digging.

This is now on my radar.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...9&d=1436838370
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:41 PM   #34
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If you don't have a volt meter, get one and learn how to use it. With no shore power, no gen or engine running, check the voltage on both banks. They should be in the 12.3 - 12.6v range. Now start the engine. The chassis battery should read 14.2 - 14.5v, which means it's working properly. Now check the house batts, they should have the approx same voltage. If not and if you DO have a BIRD, it could be bad, corroded or loose connection at the BIRD or the solenoid that connects the house to the chassis.

If you don't have a BIRD and there is no voltage increase, then I would suspect a bad connection at the solenoid or the solenoid itself. Do you have an Aux/Start/Boost switch on the dash?
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Old 08-28-2015, 11:42 AM   #35
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Do you have an Aux/Start/Boost switch on the dash?

Yes it does. It doesn't appear to work.
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Old 08-28-2015, 12:25 PM   #36
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No expert, but if your house batteries can crank your genny it should be able to kick your furnace. As stated by some you don't need your inverter to run the furnace. Have you tried to start your furnace with the inverter off?
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Old 08-28-2015, 03:19 PM   #37
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Yes it does. It doesn't appear to work.
That switch operates a solenoid that connects both batt banks together. It is generally used to jump start the chassis batt from the house if it's low or dead. If the house batts are low, you can also use it to jump house then start the genny.

This same solenoid is also used to charge your house batts from the engine. When the engine starts and the alt puts out power, it energizes the solenoid connecting both banks which in turn charges the house.
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:47 PM   #38
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That switch operates a solenoid that connects both batt banks together. It is generally used to jump start the chassis batt from the house if it's low or dead. If the house batts are low, you can also use it to jump house then start the genny.

This same solenoid is also used to charge your house batts from the engine. When the engine starts and the alt puts out power, it energizes the solenoid connecting both banks which in turn charges the house.

Found the "guy in charge "

It has power to energize but was a dead selenoid. 14 volts on the left , 12.5 on the right.

I guess I'm gonna need a continuos powered replacement 12 volt solenoid..

I couldn't find any specs on the net. Any suggestions on locating one. It probably a " typical solenoid" so I'll just start my search at a automotive supplier.

"Part # 10-1010

THER battery switch LifeStyle RV "
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:04 AM   #39
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One more note.

The new alternator I installed is a 160 amp. I guess that narrows my search for a solenoid as well.

3 terminal -12 volt continuous duty , 160 amp solenoid
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:25 AM   #40
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In case it helps someone else one day ......


On this coach the solenoids were in the very front behind a removable panel beside the fuses above the gen set. I started looking for it from the back , but they run everything all the way to the front for some reason. I guess it's dry up there.


Here's a picture of it after removing the bottom solenoid. The one on the right looks replaced at one time and it appears someone has removed and replaced the energize wire to the top one.

I ran out of time today , but my guess is the top one might be the dash boost switch. Sound right ? Another possibility is to split the load from 160 Amps maybe they run two selenoids.... But then again the energize wires are different and only one had current to energize.
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:50 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by zero260in1 View Post
In case it helps someone else one day ......


On this coach the solenoids were in the very front behind a removable panel beside the fuses above the gen set. I started looking for it from the back , but they run everything all the way to the front for some reason. I guess it's dry up there.


Here's a picture of it after removing the bottom solenoid. The one on the right looks replaced at one time and it appears someone has removed and replaced the energize wire to the top one.

I ran out of time today , but my guess is the top one might be the dash boost switch. Sound right ? Another possibility is to split the load from 160 Amps maybe they run two selenoids.... But then again the energize wires are different and only one had current to energize.
The top, black solenoid is the house disconnect. The lower solenoid is for the battery boost/interconnect.
Here's one that is rated 150 amps continuous 300 amps inrush. Most are rated at 85 amps.
http://www.amazon.com/CONTINUOUS-SOL...0_SR160%2C160_
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:04 AM   #42
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You can safely use an 80 amp as you are just charging house batts.

Since you have 2 solenoids, I would bet you do have a BIRD. Have someone operate the boost switch. The one that clicks is your guy.

If that 2nd solenoid is part of the BIRD system, it will energize when the chassis batt is low and the house batts are being charged. I would run the chassis batt down a bit with the headlights until down to 12.3 volts. Then running the genny or use shore power to see if the voltage goes up on the chassis.

If nothing happens, then I would bet that solenoid is shot.
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