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Old 09-30-2018, 06:19 PM   #1
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FYI - before you ask - Tools for Air Winterization

Instructions for using air to Winterize your RV:

Draining the water lines isn’t enough; you have to purge the entire system. There are two ways to do this:

#1 Blow Out the System With Compressed Air

This is perhaps the easiest method, but it requires an air compressor and a special “blow out plug,” which can be purchased at most RV part suppliers.

The major drawback to this method is that you can’t be 100 percent sure that all the water has been expelled from the system.

To proceed:

1. Disconnect your rig from the outside water source.

2. Turn off all power in the rig. Don’t forget to shut off the propane as well.

3. Bypass your water heater. You do not want to drain the water heater at this time. Some RVs come with a factory-installed bypass valve. If yours doesn't, you can install a cheap kit.

4. Consult with the owner’s manuals for your refrigerator, ice maker, washing machine and dishwasher (if so equipped) for winterizing instructions.

5. Open all faucets, including tub and shower and the outdoor shower if you have one. Then open the system drain valves and let the water empty. See your owner’s manual for valve locations.

6. Flush the toilet to clear any water from the line.

7. Connect the “blow out plug” to the city water inlet—not the fresh water tank.

8. Adjust the air compressor to no more than 30 psi to avoid damaging the water lines.

9. Connect the air compressor hose to the blow out plug. Turn on the compressor and let it run until all water is blown from the faucets and drain valves. Shut off the air compressor and disconnect the blow out plug from the water inlet.

Clean and flush your black and gray water tanks, drain the fresh water tank completely, then close the drain valves. Pour one quart of special RV antifreeze into the gray and black tanks to protect the drain valves and seals. Do this through all sink and shower drains—you want antifreeze in the pipe traps as well. Add about a pint to the toilet bowl to protect its flush valve and seals.

Note: RV antifreeze is PINK.

Few Items I carry to Help with the Eazzzzy winterization

https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Spr...JPPSGQRHYM2W7H

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...XLVBOE9N&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...6A58CEWV&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...GOKNP3PJ&psc=1

Just a FYI - Lets all enjoy Winter - - -
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Old 10-01-2018, 07:51 AM   #2
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A good summary to follow.
I prefer to open one faucet at a time... Starting with the closest to the city water inlet and moving to the farthest... When blowing out w air
It takes volume and velocity to ensure all water is expelled.
I would be afraid that with all faucets open at once the flow to each is greatly reduced and may not push all the water from low spots.
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:13 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Winemaker2 View Post
A good summary to follow.
I prefer to open one faucet at a time... Starting with the closest to the city water inlet and moving to the farthest... When blowing out w air
It takes volume and velocity to ensure all water is expelled.
I would be afraid that with all faucets open at once the flow to each is greatly reduced and may not push all the water from low spots.
as do I - and then I still will do it twice to be sure.
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winemaker2 View Post
A good summary to follow.
I prefer to open one faucet at a time... Starting with the closest to the city water inlet and moving to the farthest... When blowing out w air
It takes volume and velocity to ensure all water is expelled.
I would be afraid that with all faucets open at once the flow to each is greatly reduced and may not push all the water from low spots.
One exception to the OP: bypass the water heater for the blow down but don't forget to drain it. Last year I opened the vent at the top while the low point drain was open. When I pulled the anode there was virtually nothing in the tank. That avoids the wet mess when 6 gallons comes out onto your shoes.
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Old 10-01-2018, 09:18 AM   #5
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Instructions for using air to Winterize your RV:



8. Adjust the air compressor to no more than 30 psi to avoid damaging the water lines.
The cheap water pressure regulator is set at 45 to 55 psi. I just use a cheap brass regulator in line with the hose.
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Old 10-14-2018, 11:15 PM   #6
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Any different steps for Winterizing with an aqua hot?
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Old 10-14-2018, 11:40 PM   #7
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I use air to blow out the water, pump in the pink stuff and then use air to blow out the pink stuff. I might be paranoid, but I had to fix/replace the water lines with just using air to blow the water out.
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Old 10-15-2018, 02:06 AM   #8
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I drain the water heater first and don't bypass it. Then when I hook up the air the water heater makes a nice six gallon air tank to help blow things out. My little pancake air compressor doesn't have much storage capacity and is only good for a low cfm flow rate.

Once things are blown out I'll bypass it and then pump the antifreeze in.
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Old 10-15-2018, 02:30 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by AITG View Post
One exception to the OP: bypass the water heater for the blow down but don't forget to drain it. Last year I opened the vent at the top while the low point drain was open. When I pulled the anode there was virtually nothing in the tank. That avoids the wet mess when 6 gallons comes out onto your shoes.
Actually you do not need to bypass the water heater; however you do need to let the pressure bleed off after blowing it out and then pull the drain plug and you can leave it out during the winter, put something over the hole.
You also need to drain the Ice maker and the real hard one is the washer. If you have a dish washer do that also. Remember to pull any filters before you start blowing things out and replace them with the bypasses (if applicable)
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Old 10-25-2018, 09:19 AM   #10
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Any different steps for Winterizing with an aqua hot?
Only thing I've been doing is Blowing it, the Hot Water in the Aqua Hot out, TWICE, usually a day or two later - just to be sure it's Completely Dry.

I Also increase the air pressure to 45 to get it out of all the Loops in the boiler.

After the second blow out, usually the next day, it blows DRY, with no water at all.

Then use a gallon of pink to catch all the drains. Have done this for the last 25 years and have had no issue with frozen lines.

But........I will leave about 200-500 watts of heat on in the coach and 150 watts in the basement, ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) that way it never gets to freezing inside the coach, except for extreme cold periods. I monitor this with High-Low and Remote thermometers, lowest temp I've had inside the Coach has been 30 degrees, Mild winter last year and the low was 38.

I also will use reflexit bubble wrap in all the windows and vents to help keep it insulated.

Get ready - as it is Cold.

JMHO,
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Old 10-25-2018, 09:37 AM   #11
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All good points. Thanks to the OP for a very good write up. Just a couple of comments. I do use about 45 psi when I blow it out. One other issue I read about last year that made sense to me was to set all the ball valves in your system to the open position, so there is no water trapped in the ball in the closed position.

Splendid has a very easy process to use for winterizing the washer. The real bear is draining the water lines to the washer. I have been disconnecting and draining into a bucket. Don't forget to dump some antifreeze into the washer drain. Not sure, but I expect a P-trap there.

Lastly, as I blow out my system and open faucets, there is always a fine mist spraying out after the water is purged. I've always let it go as good at that point. Not sure one can ever get all the spray out. Is that the consensus here?
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winemaker2 View Post
A good summary to follow.
I prefer to open one faucet at a time... Starting with the closest to the city water inlet and moving to the farthest... When blowing out w air
It takes volume and velocity to ensure all water is expelled.
I would be afraid that with all faucets open at once the flow to each is greatly reduced and may not push all the water from low spots.
I have a 94 bounder and I was winterizing it the way you did,only no water came from the hot water faucets any where in the RV. I opened the valve on the water heater itself and water came from it but like I said none from the faucets! I have a sport fishing boat and winterized the same way you did your RV and water always came from the hot water faucets when I blew air through the fresh water intake. What is different with the hot water setup on a RV
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:27 PM   #13
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I have a 94 bounder and I was winterizing it the way you did,only no water came from the hot water faucets any where in the RV. I opened the valve on the water heater itself and water came from it but like I said none from the faucets! I have a sport fishing boat and winterized the same way you did your RV and water always came from the hot water faucets when I blew air through the fresh water intake. What is different with the hot water setup on a RV
Did you get air flow but no water or nothing?
If nothing need to check bypass valve positions.
If air only. .. hot ecits top of tank so you won't get much.
I bypass then drain WH then blow out lines and add AF
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Old 10-25-2018, 07:26 PM   #14
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One everything is cleared, I'll blow out the water pump as well. I didn't see that mentioned anywhere here. Heard stories about it cracking over the winter from freezing up with water still inside it. Turn it on and let it pump air for a minute.
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