Gelcoat restoration

[Itasca66]

Your on the right track .. when I get mine all stripped and buffed . Im going to using nu finish on it because it's so easy to apply each year after. Issue I have is getting around my decals there still good enough for few more years but I have to cover them when sanding and buffing as it will take them off. And go around them by hand it takes time but the end result is priceless. All decals are different also my older​ rig are all straight lines easyer to replace. New rigs have fancey cut out curves and stuff . So ya there all different on what it takes to get them the way you want them . It's more about patience and right way to do it. [emoji106]

Itasca66

[Bob_C]

After 7 years, Nu Finish has NOT harmed one decal on this trailer....they get a coat also....

[Winemaker2]

Originally Posted by Itasca66

Your on the right track .. when I get mine all stripped and buffed . Im going to using nu finish on it because it's so easy to apply each year after. Issue I have is getting around my decals there still good enough for few more years but I have to cover them when sanding and buffing as it will take them off. And go around them by hand it takes time but the end result is priceless. All decals are different also my older​ rig are all straight lines easyer to replace. New rigs have fancey cut out curves and stuff . So ya there all different on what it takes to get them the way you want them . It's more about patience and right way to do it. [emoji106]

Itasca66

I've used NuFinish on boats cars & MHs for years and love it.
I've tried a couple higher end polymers...even did a head to head comparison half of car w each and honestly couldn't tell the difference initially or after several mos.

Also FYI... I had some decals that were well adhered but looking dull & blotchy.
Read here on iRV2 that folks were compounding or wet sanding to restore.
Tried some compound...carefully by hand and was very pleased.
I finished w swirl remover and did the surrounding fiberglass by hand at the same time and it really made a difference.
Best to rub along the long axis of any decal...not across the short dimension.
Easy w stripes... tougher w lettering & logos.
I used 303 protectant ob the decals when finished

[Itasca66]

Thanks great info . I will keep eye open for 303 ..here's a pic I was going post other day. Of the process. You can see decals . Remember 1992 . 25 years old.

Itasca66

[Winemaker2]

Looking great.
BTW...there are 2 different 303s...
Fabric Guard is a water repellant treatment good for Sunbrella type awnings
Aerospace Protectant is for rubber vinyl plastic shines and protects from UV
Actually there are now many more 303 products but those are the 2 original. Read and follow labels best advice.
Protectant also works good on front end... a little warm water and the bugs slide off easy

[marjoa]

Originally Posted by Itasca66

Thanks great info . I will keep eye open for 303 ..here's a pic I was going post other day. Of the process. You can see decals . Remember 1992 . 25 years old.

Itasca66

Oh WOW, now there you go. That's looking great. You're on the right track. I guess in your case using 1500 grit and power buffed wizards compound was the choice to make. I would say most of the MH's I see that are in need of gel coat restoration don't need that aggressive approach. Usually just a good compounding, polish & wax does the trick. I wish I had taken before/after pics when I did my MH.

NOTE: I'd like to comment on those who say they use Nu Finish wax. I too used Nu Finish for years and loved it UNTIL I bought Meguiar's Ultimate. You have to be careful when applying Nu Finish because—like 99% of waxes—if you get it on rubber trim, black window trim or anything like that, it's nearly impossible to get it all off and it leaves that ugly white streaking. It also dries to a typical white chalky power like most other waxes too. Not Meguiar's Ultimate. This stuff goes on so easy and you don't have to worry about getting it on any trim or anything else for that matter and it buffs out amazing. It's also great for graphics. It's kinda like a "conditioner" for them and restores a nice richness to them. Give it a try and you'll see what I mean. I don't think you'll ever go back to Nu Finish.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Winemaker2]

Originally Posted by marjoa

NOTE: I'd like to comment on those who say they use Nu Finish wax. I too used Nu Finish for years and loved it UNTIL I bought Meguiar's Ultimate. You have to be careful when applying Nu Finish because—like 99% of waxes—if you get it on rubber trim, black window trim or anything like that, it's nearly impossible to get it all off and it leaves that ugly white streaking. It also dries to a typical white chalky power like most other waxes too. Not Meguiar's Ultimate. This stuff goes on so easy and you don't have to worry about getting it on any trim or anything else for that matter and it buffs out amazing. It's also great for graphics. It's kinda like a "conditioner" for them and restores a nice richness to them. Give it a try and you'll see what I mean. I don't think you'll ever go back to Nu Finish.

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You hit on the only negative and I do agree it is a PITA - will have to give Meguires Ultimate a try...

THANKS for the tip

[zekethomas]

Come on folks.. there has to be an easy way... we are lazy Americans and have forgotten about elbow grease.

In fact, the only reason my kids know anything about shine is from the Karate Kid!

What is the easy way? .... can Zep work if you remove it before you apply it next year?

.... Ya I know.. the drill sergeant was very good and convincing my that "elbow grease" can clean anything...

[Itasca66]

There is a easy way pay some guy a $1000 to wet sand and buff it
. The American way lol. Then say yes only took me couple hours . lol

Itasca66

[boatman10]

is 3M high gloss gelcoat compound 06025.

I've been in the boat business for 40 years in the manufacturing, repairing end....I've bought truck loads of gelcoat in 55 gallon drums. and pallets of compound at a time.

I've built specialized hand finished production parts for Hatteras, Searay and Bertram because they could not build/finish them themselves [radar arches, hard tops]

with this compound on vertical areas you should not need to wetsand unless the unit is very old and sitting in desert sun.

if you do need to wetsand this compound will gloss out 600G wetsand scratches...

1000G and finer is used for paint, not gelcoat, unless you are using too fine a compound.

Stay away from Aqua Buff compound its not near as good as the 06025 3M.

do not use a random orbit polisher for compounding, use a straight circular with double sided wool buffing pads .....work a 4sqft area with the top of the pad working from right to left in up n down motion....with a good amount of pressure.....[after spreading compound on with a brush as thin as possible]....then go over this area with light pressure.......clean pad as it loads up with a star tool or a edge of something......when all loaded up, soak pad overnight n spray with hose at high pressure.


wear a dust mask when pad is new if wool fibers are coming off [they will go up ur nose n drive u crazy]

Real carnuba wax is better than Nufinish [a polishing compound for urethane paint actually, not gelcoat........regardless of what their label says].........you can use your random orbit machine here.

be careful around decals

[boatman10]

on the market that will gloss out faded gelcoat.....these are really repackaged acrylic floor wax.......looks great for 6 months then absorbs all the black film pollution in the rain as the UVs tear it up cause its really an indoor product....then u must strip it n redo.....NOT FUN at all!

Itasca 66 I see you are using the best basic varable speed buffer on the market, the mikita......mine is 20 years old n going strong!

[Itasca66]

Originally Posted by boatman10

is 3M high gloss gelcoat compound 06025.

I've been in the boat business for 40 years in the manufacturing, repairing end....I've bought truck loads of gelcoat in 55 gallon drums. and pallets of compound at a time.

I've built specialized hand finished production parts for Hatteras, Searay and Bertram because they could not build/finish them themselves [radar arches, hard tops]

with this compound on vertical areas you should not need to wetsand unless the unit is very old and sitting in desert sun.

if you do need to wetsand this compound will gloss out 600G wetsand scratches...

1000G and finer is used for paint, not gelcoat, unless you are using too fine a compound.

Stay away from Aqua Buff compound its not near as good as the 06025 3M.

do not use a random orbit polisher for compounding, use a straight circular with double sided wool buffing pads .....work a 4sqft area with the top of the pad working from right to left in up n down motion....with a good amount of pressure.....[after spreading compound on with a brush as thin as possible]....then go over this area with light pressure.......clean pad as it loads up with a star tool or a edge of something......when all loaded up, soak pad overnight n spray with hose at high pressure.


wear a dust mask when pad is new if wool fibers are coming off [they will go up ur nose n drive u crazy]

Real carnuba wax is better than Nufinish [a polishing compound for urethane paint actually, not gelcoat........regardless of what their label says].........you can use your random orbit machine here.

be careful around decals

I did try 600g wet sanding it really tairs it up big time . It would take serious compound to buff and get out 600g scratches. I'm having enough issues getting 1500 G scatches back out. I'm sure all aging fiber glass reacts different maybe.

Itasca66

That buffer is awesome. [emoji106] Priceless.

[Aegon]

I really could have used boatman's advice 7 years ago when I tried 1500G wet/dry to blend in the gel coat around some decals I removed. I spent hours carefully trying to get down to new gel coat, but never fully achieved perfect results. Now I know why, should have used 600G.

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, it will be put to good use

[Aegon]

Originally Posted by Itasca66

I did try 600g wet sanding it really tairs it up big time . It would take serious compound to buff and get out 600g scratches. I'm having enough issues getting 1500 G scatches back out. I'm sure all aging fiber glass reacts different maybe.

I used 3M Finesse IT after compounding. It's a glaze that will fill fine scratches. You still have to wax after the Finesse IT. The results were amazing, looked like new again!