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Old 10-04-2017, 03:07 AM   #43
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3M Perfect It. The best available low density machine compound that will remove oxidation, swirls, scratches and will restore painted surfaces to a baseline finish to be followed by application of a good polish/wax of your choosing. Easy to use, and does the job. Does require the use of a dual action polisher.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...94857497&rt=r3
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Old 07-26-2018, 02:16 AM   #44
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So I was finally able to get my dated and faded Outlaw hood decal replaced. I think it looks alot better. The one on the drivers side is next. After removal of the old decal, a green ghost was left in the gelcoat. I was able to remove that out with wet sanding and 3M 06025 paste (thanks boatman 10 ) . But I was a little too aggressive in one small spot where the hood panel has a small crease. Luckily the new decal's "L" could cover that. The hood also had a small gelcoat defect like a birthmark from the day I bought it in 2013 that would not sand away. So I used the flag to cover that. I applied the decal 2 letters at a time, you can see some air bubbles in the first 2 letters (A and W), but I got better with the rest. They are supposed to slowly disappear?, I hope? Anyway, I think it looks a lot better. I tried to emulate the font of the new Outlaw's.
[IMG]http[/IMG]
[IMG]http[/IMG]
[IMG]http[/IMG]
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Old 07-26-2018, 02:29 AM   #45
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Wow sun must be hard on stuff in AZ . Mines a 1992 I'm still working on wet sanding my decals are ok for few more years. But my wet sanding is a major job.
800- 1000-1200 grit paper to get mirror finish back . But now you can see the delamination better because shines is so crazy . And I got couple birthmarks on mine also from first owner getting crazy with buffer. Some days Im thinking painting with satin off white lol . Not really but did cross my mind lol.

Itasca

Mines 16 years older then yours.
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Old 07-26-2018, 05:31 PM   #46
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It looks great! You did a fine job!

That is touchy work, and as far as I can tell from the picture, you got great results. Congratulations, I know you’ve been working on this a while.
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Old 07-27-2018, 05:40 AM   #47
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the bubbles in the decals will disappear.
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Old 07-27-2018, 12:25 PM   #48
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Yes Itasca, it is true. The Arizona sun is hard on stuff. And intense. And unrelenting. My Outlaw has spent 3 years outdoors in AZ, and before I acquired it it had 5 years outdoors in Nevada. But now I have a garage for it, so I feel more confident going forward about the new decals. While most of the striping decals aren't too bad, these nameplate decals are. Plus I just don't like that design, so I am replacing them.

Thanks Aegon. It has taken a few months. But now I am retired, so I hope to have more time for these projects.

Thanks again for your advice, boatman. I do have one question about the 3M 06025 compound. I was slinging it around alot. Am I just going too fast?
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Old 07-28-2018, 05:25 AM   #49
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yes, too fast initially or too much compound

put it on with a throw away brush spread it out as much as possible.....about a 4-6sqft area.

variable speed buffer is best...cheap at harbor freight.....NOT those double action two handled car 'buffers' tho THEY are good for wax.

initially slow speed lotsa pressure, up n down motion starting on left side using 'top' half of pad.......this procedure slowly drags more compound into area.....finish off area with higher speed less pressure.

clean pad with 'star' pad cleaning device or piece of wood edge[carefully].
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Old 07-28-2018, 06:18 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatman10 View Post
put it on with a throw away brush spread it out as much as possible.....about a 4-6sqft area.

variable speed buffer is best...cheap at harbor freight.....NOT those double action two handled car 'buffers' tho THEY are good for wax.

initially slow speed lotsa pressure, up n down motion starting on left side using 'top' half of pad.......this procedure slowly drags more compound into area.....finish off area with higher speed less pressure.

clean pad with 'star' pad cleaning device or piece of wood edge[carefully].
After reading this thread last year and with Boatman's comments, i compounded my 36' motorhome last winter, It was a job, I did the roof also. Just put the second coat of wax on it this weekend. It was just starting to oxidize again so my plan is to wax 2x per season. Still looking good. Thanks for the input.
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Old 07-28-2018, 06:46 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatman10 View Post
put it on with a throw away brush spread it out as much as possible.....about a 4-6sqft area.

variable speed buffer is best...cheap at harbor freight.....NOT those double action two handled car 'buffers' tho THEY are good for wax.

initially slow speed lotsa pressure, up n down motion starting on left side using 'top' half of pad.......this procedure slowly drags more compound into area.....finish off area with higher speed less pressure.

clean pad with 'star' pad cleaning device or piece of wood edge[carefully].
I think you contradicted yourself from post #31
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Old 07-29-2018, 01:19 AM   #52
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Just one more point about professional buffer on my old 1992 any compound I tried wasn't enough and heat was a issue . So that's when I realized wetsanding was the way to go . Mine was extreme . But first owner might of put on a sealer or wax or who knows what that yellowed also was my after thought.

Itasca.
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:41 AM   #53
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point out

where i contradicted myself
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Old 08-01-2018, 11:17 AM   #54
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Start at upper right?

From post 31

Quote:
Originally Posted by boatman10 View Post

since all machines turn clockwise, start at the upper right side of your work box[2'x2']
using the top of the pad, with good pressure move DOWN to the bottom of square corner.....then at bottom move pad over 1-2" moving it up to top of square then repeat....you do not have to lift machine and pad

you are then constantly dragging off new compound into work area......do not ever start at left n go to right
From post 49

Quote:
Originally Posted by boatman10 View Post

initially slow speed lotsa pressure, up n down motion starting on left side using 'top' half of pad.......this procedure slowly drags more compound into area.....finish off area with higher speed less pressure.
Not being critical, just want to understand. I truly appreciate you sharing your knowledge here.

Thank you.
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Old 08-01-2018, 11:41 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aegon View Post
From post 31



From post 49



Not being critical, just want to understand. I truly appreciate you sharing your knowledge here.

Thank you.
I'll get in on the fun....from how I read it, he did not contradict himself. Read it again He says "do not ever start at left..." Soooo that means you WOULD be starting at the right. which is what he said: "Start at the upper right"
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Old 08-01-2018, 11:48 AM   #56
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3m high gloss gel coat compound. You can only find it online by the gallon. Use it with a wool pad on a high speed buffer. I use it on boats and nothing works as easily. Do not use it on paint, only on gel coat!
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