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Old 09-10-2016, 05:39 PM   #1
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Generator Runs, No House Power

Hi All,
Hoping you can help us. I am writing this for DH and hope that it comes across right. He is here but researching on other computer.
Here is our issue.....
Refer and auto steps work and slideouts work...this of course is coming from batteries/inverter.
If you start the Generator, it runs....here is the problem
Nothing in the house works and the light on the generator button is not lit.
We have checked all fuses, circuit breakers and all is fine.

Turned Generator off, plugged into Sticks and Bricks house current with dog bone. Still nothing in house works. When unplugging dog bone from S&B extension cord, both extension cord and dog bone were pretty hot.

Does anyone have any idea what the issue is or what to research?
Appreciate any help,
Judi
2008 Monaco Knight 38 PDQ......
Onan 8000 Generator

(NOTE: Forgot to delete old signature first) Just got Knight a few weeks ago
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Old 09-10-2016, 05:49 PM   #2
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There is a single circuit breaker located directly on the generator. Make sure that you trip it OFF and then back to ON.

It also could be your transfer switch since it involves both the generator and shore power as they both go through the transfer switch.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 09-10-2016, 05:52 PM   #3
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What house are you talking about?
Have you check the automatic transfer switch?
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Old 09-10-2016, 06:37 PM   #4
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Dr4Film --- Richard, yes we did so

Gator CG --- Dale and Susan
When I say nothing in the house works, I mean the Coach. What is the best way to check the Transfer Switch?
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:23 PM   #5
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Pull the cover off the circuit breaker box, and carefully with a AC voltmeter, measure the voltages on the main circuit breaker wires (dual 50 Amp circuit breaker). Measuring black on the CB to white wire buss bar, 120 VAC. Measuring black on the CB to bare/green wire buss bar, 120VAC. Measuring red on the CB to both white and bare/green, both 120VAC. Measuring red on CB, to black on CB, should be 240 V when on shorepower 50A plug.

If you are using a 30A to 50A dongle, then the voltage from black to red should be 0 volts instead of 240volts.
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:30 PM   #6
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If it were me, I would do this, you may or may not want to try.

Take the front cover off the transfer switch box, do not have any power applied to the coach (110V) 12 V is ok. Push on the center of the switch to operate (close) the switch manually with no power. Once you know what part moves when the switch operates normally, apply power to the coach and use a screwdriver or something like a wood dowel to manually close the switch. If power is then passed through to the coach, then you have something in the small magnetic electric coil circuit that is not closing the switch.

I had the same type problem with my house A/C that quit working. I finally put jumper wires on the compressor, took the switch out and found that the vibration over the years had broken one end of the very small magnetic coil wire. A little solder job and the switched operated like a new one. A really good A/C repair man would just have thrown it away and installed a new one.
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Old 09-11-2016, 01:20 PM   #7
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Well problem solved.......that is what happens when you have a new coach....
We are still in our house till the end of the month and bring the coach here daily to work on and load up. DH pushed the button to put the retractable stairs away and at the same time hit what they call the salesman's button which kills all power.
Thanks guys for all your help.....so glad nothing major in the long run. Gotta get that EMS hooked up too. Thanks again
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Old 09-11-2016, 03:10 PM   #8
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Easy fix!

Now for a more permanent fix.

You have two choices, one install a lock on the Battery Cut-Off Switch that got accidentally turned off OR bypass the solenoid which the switch activates as one day when you least expect it that solenoid will fail and it will ALWAYS be at the worst time to get it fixed.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 09-11-2016, 03:55 PM   #9
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one thing you talked about concerned me... you talked about disconnecting a cable and the ends were hot... any cable connection that is hot... means a bad connection and energy is expended to cross the loose connection... this can get hot enough to melt connections... I'd either open the cable end and examine it.... and repair/replace
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jelag View Post
one thing you talked about concerned me... you talked about disconnecting a cable and the ends were hot... any cable connection that is hot... means a bad connection and energy is expended to cross the loose connection... this can get hot enough to melt connections... I'd either open the cable end and examine it.... and repair/replace
Not so much a cable, it was an extension cord ran from the sticks and bricks to the coach via a dogbone. When DH disconnected the extension cord from the dogbone...the dogbone and the end of the extension cord were hot.
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
Easy fix!

Now for a more permanent fix.

You have two choices, one install a lock on the Battery Cut-Off Switch that got accidentally turned off OR bypass the solenoid which the switch activates as one day when you least expect it that solenoid will fail and it will ALWAYS be at the worst time to get it fixed.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Thanks Richard.
It will probably be my first real failure in the coach cause you said so!! lol
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Old 09-12-2016, 05:53 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enterprise View Post

Not so much a cable, it was an extension cord ran from the sticks and bricks to the coach via a dogbone. When DH disconnected the extension cord from the dogbone...the dogbone and the end of the extension cord were hot.
What gauge wire is the extension cord and how long is it? Dog-Bones are never put together with the proper gauge wire.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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