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Old 02-28-2016, 09:37 AM   #15
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You need to check that voltage while cranking the starter.

Speaker wire will show that voltage until you hit the starter.
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Old 02-28-2016, 09:43 AM   #16
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You need to check that voltage while cranking the starter.
Speaker wire will show that voltage until you hit the starter.
Speaker wire??
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Old 02-28-2016, 01:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
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You need to check that voltage while cranking the starter.

Speaker wire will show that voltage until you hit the starter.
I think you meant starter wire, instead of speaker wire.

On mine I read 9.5 v when trying to start while connected to house batteries.

I disconnected the positive and negative leads from the house batteries where they connect at the backside of the generator housing and then connected a good battery jump starter there. The jump starter did not fair as well as the house batteries did when I pressed the start switch -- voltage dropped to 7.5 v.

So does this indicate a bad starter? I still haven't got the cover housing off enough to get to the solenoid(s). Could they cause this issue?

Thanks for any help!

Charles27909 - I have posted here rather than starting a new thread, because we have the same issue so this information might be useful to you. I hope you don't mind.
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Old 02-28-2016, 01:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Speaker wire??
"Auto correct" sometimes means "auto incorrect"!
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:04 PM   #19
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No...I meant speaker wire...let me splain.

If the starter is not cranking there is no load on the wire, so a speaker wire will read the same as a 4 X 0 wire.

Noted voltage dropped to 7.5 to 9.5 volts so either battery not so good, connections not so good, starter may be bad or a little bit of all of the above.

Starters for small industrial engines are usually double wound armatures meaning 2 pairs of brushes 90 degrees apart to allow more torque in a small unit.

Some generators use the generator winding for starting, we do not know how yours works so you will need to determine which one you have.

Connect your batteries back to generator as well as a good jump start battery or better yet another vehicle and jump it and see what it does.

You also can pick up a starter ammeter that just lies next to the battery cable.

They are not as accurate as a Fluke but they are good enough to measure starting voltage.

These are at Napa and is just a meter that you hold next to the battery cable
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:54 PM   #20
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Hello everyone....I would appreciate some advice/opinions about the generator on my Dad's Newmar. My father and I have traveled on many trips with his motor home and the starter on the generator has always spun slow but started. Now the starter is not spinning it engine fast enough to start. Outside of replacing the starter, I wonder if anyone else has had the issue and what remedies may resolve it. I am not reluctant to change the starter, just want to try most cost effective ways first....THANKS FOR YOUR ANSWERS.
Bad connections on cables would be my first check.
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:10 PM   #21
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Pulled my starter out and took to shop for rebuild. They said it's shot. Have new starter on order.
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Old 03-05-2016, 03:58 AM   #22
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If you haven't done so also I would take every connection from the batteries to the starter apart and give them a good cleaning. This holds true for any grounds also. Test ( or have tested ) the batteries, replace if in doubt and give each connection a liberal coating of Di-electric silicone grease.
The main reason other than just age and normal wear for starter failure is low voltage supplied to the starter.
Be sure the mounting surface between the engine block and the starter is clean and corrosion free.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:32 PM   #23
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Well I have some news....after more suitable weather arrived...it looks as if the starter is no good. There is good.current going to starter terminals and very little corrosion. Which I subsequently cleaned and yielded no improvement. I was wrong about the unit, it is a Guardian by Generac. It's looks very very difficult to change. Any ideas or advice if anyone has done this before. Thanks for your help.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:41 PM   #24
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Also, I hooked up a power source directly to the terminals and got no improvement.
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:30 PM   #25
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Many small engine starters have dual windings.

What this means is there are 2 sets of brushes to get more torque in the small package.

Like 2 motors in parallel.

Often one brush sticks causing only one set to work greatly reducing torque of starter.

If you can get to end plate and screws to remove it you may be able to peek inside and maybe clean it up.

Another option is write off the starter as shot so nothing left to loose.

Blow out with compressed air if any holes then maybe wd 40

Best to take the time to remove it so you can open it up and maybe fix it.

There are re builders that serve the lawn equipment places so look for a few of those to check into rebuilt.

Our scissor lift starter had issues and new wss almost 400 but rebuilt was 90.

All new except the housing that bolted to engine.
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:47 PM   #26
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If yours is a 7.5 kw Generac then it's the same as mine. I recently replaced my starter. It was easier than I thought it would be. There's an access cover underneath that provides access to the starter motor. A new motor cost me $200.
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