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Old 08-08-2016, 05:48 PM   #15
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I really don't see a problem with what you want to do as my rv can do what you describe. Before you replace anything make sure all the screws that hold the wires on the ATS are tight. A loose wire can cause issues. Check the wires on the generator side too.

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Old 08-08-2016, 06:17 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by azSkier View Post
I am not sure all loads have time delay circuitry. I have an Auqahot as my water heater. The electrical portion of the heater draws about 12 AC amps. When power is lost, the temp will fall. When generator power is restored, it is an instant load.

The AC controllers are 12v systems. With a loss of shore power, It appears to me that the controller has energized the relays for the fan and the compressor. Nothing is happening, but the relays are switched. When the generator starts, my transfer switch (at the moment) fails when I have 2 ACs on and ready to start.

I also think the charger on my magnum inverter starts charging when AC power is present. I checked the magnum manual today and could not find a delay setting.

But, you are right about the generator seeing no load at the very beginning of the start up. When the generator starts, I have seen AC power for a few seconds and then it all goes away.

I hope this works better when I install the new transfer switch.?

I think the point of this post now is that the AGS will be able to start the generator even with various loads ready to go. This should be a rare event as it will cause some wear on the contactors.
On my coach, the AGS calls for the gen to start, it starts and goes through its warm up sequence then the transfer switch closes on the gen side to energize the coach, at this point the gen is running, the transfer switch is closed to pass power to the coach but the power distribution system has all loads shed . After a short delay the distribution system starts to energize the loads that are shed one at a time until all systems are up and running until the ac is satisfied then the gen shuts down.

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Old 08-08-2016, 07:13 PM   #17
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Don't know if this is possible but are your A/Cs on separate thermostats? If so set one to a temp higher than the other or even turn one off when you leave the coach. At different temp they should not come on at the same time at generator start up.

Your potential start up wattage is only 5160 watts (43 amps X 120 volts = 5160 watts) which is less than half of the capacity of your generator. Not much of a load for a 12,500 watt generator. As long as your loads are balanced between the two generator out puts and the transfer switch you shouldn't have a problem.

Have you opened up the transfer switch and inspected the relay contacts? Pitted and burned contacts stand out and are easy to correct. With shore power unplugged and the generator circuit brakes tripped use a light fine file or fine grit sand paper, 400+, to clean and burnish them. If you ever own a car with points cleaning them is pretty much the same.
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Old 08-10-2016, 06:59 AM   #18
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Hi guys... from Australia.

This may be of no help to you at all BUT having found an electrical 'item' attached to my Onan - then having rung seemingly every Onan dealer in Aust for info as to what it was and getting 'no idea' answers, I removed it as the Onan seemed to be ok when running.

Went to a RV show last weekend - mentioned to a local Onan rv/marine dealer, who had a display there, about the 'thing'I had removed. He knew right off what it was. Apparently with some Onan's in certain conditions spiking on start up can be bad - that's the problem could be a washing machine or whatever etc. Problem would appear on one rv and not on another even though both using identical equipment.

The problem was apparently raised with Onan USA but as it was a very isolated prob their answer was they were not going to redesign their electrics. Fair enough!.
The fix was to 'pre load' the Onan with a 500 Ohm power resistor with one end on the Neutral and the other on Active lines and the Resistor mounted to a heat sink with earth line to the heatsink. So now my 'thing' is back on the RV.
We use 240v here so I don't know if 500 ohmns is still appropriate value as you are on 120v. Also I don't know the power rating of my resistor but your local Electronic shop should be able to guide you right.

Arrow Electronics in the US has this one 850F500E 500 Ohm / 50w for less than $7.00 at https://www.arrow.com/en/products/850f500e/ohmite

Here is a pic of mine to give you some idea of what I it looks like. - MAKE SURE you protect against ELECTRIC SHOCK by ensuring the leads are well covered and the end tag connections well heat shrunk...and that its fitted well away from prying fingers, small or large.
Hope this is of some use to someone.
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