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Old 10-01-2016, 09:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnhicks View Post
From my HWH manual:

5. A lit yellow LEVEL light indicates that the end, side, or
corner is low. Push the EXTEND (up arrow) button to extend
jack pairs according to a lit yellow light. ALWAYS LEVEL THE
VEHICLE FROM SIDE TO SIDE IF NECESSARY BEFORE
LEVELING THE VEHICLE FROM FRONT TO REAR.

That's what I remember reading on my coach with HWH leveling
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyjt View Post
That's what I remember reading on my coach with HWH leveling

X3 in my DS


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Old 10-02-2016, 08:36 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by bud01234 View Post
I know I've seen this but can't locate it. I read that if you level the wrong way you risk popping your windshield. Have manual system, so should I level front first or rear?



Many thanks!

Bud

Abosolutly HR with double windshields can happen not leveling to there directions. I know this for a fact. What ever you have you should only do per your manufacture doesn't matter what others do.
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Old 10-05-2016, 02:36 PM   #18
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I learned the following from a post on this forum. If you have 'Power Gear' jacks. Put your front jacks down FIRST. then your rear jacks. Level with the rear jacks for side to side.

The reason for this is that the front jacks bleed into each other, where the rear jacks work independent of each other. That's why you don't have separate buttons for right front and left front. Always be careful not to put too much torque on the frame too quick. Give the front jacks time to equalize each other. Some coaches have just one jack in front (middle), that has the same effect.

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Old 12-05-2016, 08:06 PM   #19
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My 2005 Newmar Mountain Aire has the HWH system and it also says to level side to side first.
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:28 AM   #20
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My Itasca uses the HWH system. 4 jacks, but they cannot be operated individually; they always work in pairs. Both front, both rear, both right, or both left. The pair being operated will also equalize (pressure) before actually lifting. Theoretically, that would prevent any chassis "twist". Per the manual level side-to-side followed by front-to-back, and finally bring down the final jack for stability.

For example; I pull in and my right front is low. First, I bring the right side up; although the right rear jack will touch down first, it will then wait till the right front touches down and then they will raise the right side in tandem. Once I am good side-to-side, I then bring the front up; the left front will extend and touch down before the right front does anything, and then both front jacks will raise the front in tandem. Now level, the left rear jack is still retracted, so I hit the extend button for the rear; the right rear jack does nothing and allows the left rear jack to touch down and equalize pressure. I stop, open my slides, and crack open a cold one!
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Old 12-06-2016, 07:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Gerryl View Post
I learned the following from a post on this forum. If you have 'Power Gear' jacks. Put your front jacks down FIRST. then your rear jacks. Level with the rear jacks for side to side.

The reason for this is that the front jacks bleed into each other, where the rear jacks work independent of each other. That's why you don't have separate buttons for right front and left front. Always be careful not to put too much torque on the frame too quick. Give the front jacks time to equalize each other. Some coaches have just one jack in front (middle), that has the same effect.

Agree, and Power Gear specifies a minimum height that you must raise the front before beginning to lower the rear jacks. Please read your Power Gear Manual to get the exact minimum height. The front two jacks share a common plumbing and solenoid circuit so when the a rear jack is activated to level side to side, the individual front jacks can adjust as required without twisting the frame/windshield/etc.

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Old 12-07-2016, 09:35 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Fred Cooper View Post
Agree, and Power Gear specifies a minimum height that you must raise the front before beginning to lower the rear jacks. Please read your Power Gear Manual to get the exact minimum height. The front two jacks share a common plumbing and solenoid circuit so when the a rear jack is activated to level side to side, the individual front jacks can adjust as required without twisting the frame/windshield/etc.

Fred
Interesting. What happens if the front end is already high in the campsite that you are in? Raise it even higher and then try to bring the back up far enough?
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Old 12-07-2016, 09:43 AM   #23
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Interesting. What happens if the front end is already high in the campsite that you are in? Raise it even higher and then try to bring the back up far enough?
No, you always level (raise) the low side first, then level end to end by raising the low end. Then finish off by setting whatever jack hasn't deployed so the coach is stable at all four corners.
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Old 12-07-2016, 01:43 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by harleyjt View Post
No, you always level (raise) the low side first, then level end to end by raising the low end. Then finish off by setting whatever jack hasn't deployed so the coach is stable at all four corners.
jt
Sorry to disagree, but I think you should raise the front first (just a little), then bring up the rear to level. That way you are not torquing the chassis because you are letting the front jacks bleed into each other. I have a National and they have had problems cracking the front windshields. Some people think that was caused by putting torque on the chassis by improper leveling.
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Old 12-07-2016, 02:05 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Gerryl View Post
Sorry to disagree, but I think you should raise the front first (just a little), then bring up the rear to level. That way you are not torquing the chassis because you are letting the front jacks bleed into each other. I have a National and they have had problems cracking the front windshields. Some people think that was caused by putting torque on the chassis by improper leveling.
I really can't see any difference. If the front is already high, you don't want to raise it even more, other than seating one jack at the end for stability. (as the other one is already seated since you just leveled it side to side). I'll have to research my HWH info, but as best I recall I do not believe there was any instruction that the front had to be raised up first. They do state to level side to side first, then level front to rear. Certainly doesn't hurt to raise the front first, I just don't see the need. But if that process works for you and you feel good about it, then go with it.
jt
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Old 12-07-2016, 02:19 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyjt View Post
No, you always level (raise) the low side first, then level end to end by raising the low end. Then finish off by setting whatever jack hasn't deployed so the coach is stable at all four corners.
jt
Regarding "raising the front first", I'm not talking about the HWH system (which I already know and posted the procedure for; side-side, then front-back, then final jack for stability). I was asking about the Power Gear System, which according to the posters here, DOES require the front to be lifted first.
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Old 12-07-2016, 04:01 PM   #27
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National RV primarily used POWER GEAR systems in the coaches. Operating instructions are not the same as HWH. National RV and Power Gear say use the front jacks to raise the front a few inches. This is for two reasons 1. When leveling side to side the coach pivots on the front jacks. 2. To keep from popping or cracking the front windshield. I have not had #2 happen to me but have read where that procedure was not followed it has happened. Maybe it will and maybe it won't but why take the chance of damaging the windshield.
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Old 12-07-2016, 04:25 PM   #28
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Regarding "raising the front first", I'm not talking about the HWH system (which I already know and posted the procedure for; side-side, then front-back, then final jack for stability). I was asking about the Power Gear System, which according to the posters here, DOES require the front to be lifted first.


jt
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