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Old 10-13-2016, 07:37 AM   #1
Ex Millwright / Army Vet
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 654
Getting ready to cover fiberglass roof

I posted this first in the wrong area so posting it here:

I'm getting ready to cover my entire fiberglass roof with Dicor Fiberglass RV Roof Coating. But before I do, I'm in the process of prepping the roof. One of the things I'm planning on doing is to scrap out the old bonding caulk along all the roof seams, which includes the front and rear cap on the top and as it curves down and around to the sides to where it goes under the gutter seam molding. Then do the same thing all along the entire edge of that gutter seam on both sides. I'm also doing this same process vertically down both entire sides to the bottom of both front & rear cap. I'm going to use NuFlex 460 sealant as my chalking/bonding agent per Winnebago callout sheet.
Now, in addition to that process on the roof, after I do this dig out old sealant & replace with NuFlex 460 to the top area on the front & rear cap, I was going to lay across those top seams 4" External Bond Tape and then as the last step apply the Dicor Fiberglass RV Roof Coating to the entire roof. Here's a link to the video which explains this process.

TEAM Martin & Joanie...and Wookie (our Yorkie)
2012 Winnie Vista 35F, 5 ST, TPMS, ScanGuage II, Safe T Plus, SS Rear Trac Bar, Koni FSD's, BG Fluids, Stored, Preparing to FT soon.
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Old 10-13-2016, 09:12 AM   #2
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
I applied the same tape to my front cap seam after re-calking it. I figure that way I won't have to worry about it for a long time. If the tape eventually fails, so be it - remove and redo.

Ron Everson
Cortez, Colorado
1996 Bounder 34J
1995 F53 chassis w/460 ~51K miles

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Old 10-18-2016, 04:56 AM   #3
Ex Millwright / Army Vet
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Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 654
Yeah I hear ya. I'm still in the process of roof prepping. I've installed both roof vents with the 360 Siphon's, have resealed all the way around the entire roof line (including front & rear caps) with clear NuFlex 460 sealant per call out sheet, replaced all crank out vent covers with smoked ones, removed both A/C unit plastic covers and cleaned out the A/C units (boy they were dirty) and applied the 4" tape on both front and rear caps.

What I have left is, get my polisher and remove the oxidation on the roof itself, then final application of self leveling around all my fixtures and on top of the 4" tape and where else is needed, sand/rough up roof top with med. sand paper to help adhesion of new roof material, then wait for 2 weeks to cure. Then watch weather for 2 good rain free days to actually apply new material.

Been a lot of work but I won't have to worry about this roof for quite awhile.
TEAM Martin & Joanie...and Wookie (our Yorkie)
2012 Winnie Vista 35F, 5 ST, TPMS, ScanGuage II, Safe T Plus, SS Rear Trac Bar, Koni FSD's, BG Fluids, Stored, Preparing to FT soon.
Making Traveling and Our Motorhome "GREAT AGAIN".
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Old 10-18-2016, 05:24 AM   #4
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No you should be good to go for ten years or more. One suggestion, seal the edges of the Eternabond tape, the adhesive will displace somewhat and the tape edges over time will curl. If caulked this problem is eliminated.
Clay & Pebble.. Miss Butter our sweet Goldie (Jan. 2005-Jan. 2015) Sissy our Border Collie
2012 Providence 42 M. Spartan Chassis, 450 ISL
Ford Edge toad, RM All Terrane, TST TPMS, SMI Air Force One, RVM95....
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Old 10-18-2016, 05:51 AM   #5
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I've been using roof coatings on my moho's for the last 30 years. sounds like you have it under control. What I like if you get one that has porcelain in the paint it helps with keeping the interior much cooler. When I got my last one in 98 I coated the roof when it was brand new. Never had any leaks. First coat lasted 7 years, 2nd time I'm at 11 years and it still looks good.
May your black water hose never break!
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