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Old 10-28-2013, 06:49 PM   #15
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I don't know why that picture didn't attach. I'll try again.


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Old 10-28-2013, 06:53 PM   #16
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There we go. These large bumps are areas that didn't wear down. I'm thinking maybe this is from the tire bouncing. Maybe Shocks? The alignment "professional" told me there was nothing wrong with my shocks.
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:09 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by pmichetti View Post
There we go. These large bumps are areas that didn't wear down. I'm thinking maybe this is from the tire bouncing. Maybe Shocks? The alignment "professional" told me there was nothing wrong with my shocks.
You've got a problem, and I don't think it's your tires. Get a new alinement man pronto. We run nothing but goodyear tires on everything. You must have a severe toe in or out setting, or a suspension problem. Even with new tires, find the problem before you drive that rig. It is not safe to be on the road.
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:21 PM   #18
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I have Goodyear 670s on my RV (Soon to be replaced). They have somewhere over 65K miles (in about three years and six months). At about 30K the fronts were rivering - I had the fronts placed on the inside rear duals (not an inexpensive procedure) and now fronts are rivering again. Not as severe as some of the photos above but bad enough that I'm doing the FCMA Michelin route. Alignment: well Henderson's in Grants Pass says the alignment is good so the unusual wear pattern I'll attribute to the manufacturer. If you can't trust Henderson's for front end work I don't know who you can trust.
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:19 PM   #19
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How many miles on your coach??? Bad shocks won't cause that kind of problem there has to be another issue. With good alignment as I said before you should get 10,000 plus miles from the steer tires unless there's a problem. Next question. How can an alignment guy say that the shocks are good??? The bounce test is about the only way to check and you can't bounce a big RV enough to check. Yes you can remove the shock and check for movement. A visual inspection will show leaking pistons, and worn bushings but not an internal valve issue.

Since your tire wear was on the outside and it happened to both tires on the same trip I'm guessing that the tires are toed-out way to much. Your alignment shop is telling you a bunch of lies. Tires that wear that much following an alignment is their responsibility. They messed up big time and won't own up to it because they don't want to accept the responsibility. Even if you hit a curb and bent something it would probably not affect both tires to the extent that it did and you would be aware if you did hit something hard enough to cause front steering damage.
That amount of wear has to be the result of to much toe-out and tires are never supposed to be toed-out but only in.

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Old 10-28-2013, 10:08 PM   #20
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This is just a suggestion but if you can do it you will know more about the toe settings.
One can check the toe settings similar to the way it is usually done but with some modifications. Here's what they do.
They will jack up the front wheels and paint a 1/2 wide white line in the center of each tire. Then they will use a scribe with a small wheel similar to the wheel on a glass cutter. They will place it in front of the tire and spin the tire to scribe a black line in the center of the white paint. They do this on both tires. They place a gauge which stretches across the front of the vehicle on the front and set pointers in the center of each black scribed line. That establishes the distance between the front of the tires. Then they carefully move the gauge to the back of the tires setting one pointer on to one scribed line then check the other side to determine the toe difference.
One could put together some things to check the toe but you could do this. Get two straight pieces of say 1" angle iron maybe 12" longer than the width of your tires. You could use aluminum angle. It is straighter and lighter. Center your steering wheel. You will need three more people. Have two friends hold the angle iron against the outside of the tire as close to the center of the tire as possible and parallel to the ground. Have the angle iron stick out about 6" on either side of the tire. Now with another person measure the spread at the front end of the angle iron and then the back of the angle iron.
While that's not perfect it is a good way of checking how much the tires are toed out.
You could cut your angle iron so it only sticks out about 2" from the front and rear edge of the tire. Since you will be very close to where they actually measure the toe your results will be even closer. If you could scribe a line like they do you could measure that with a ruler but using the angle iron will get you close. Placing the angle iron against the side of the tire will work as well as scribing a line.
You are only interested in the difference between the two measurements. Be exact when you take your readings. A 1/32" is critical since it should only be 1/16" maximum toe out.

If I were you I'd get that measurement before I took it in to another alignment shop.

One more item. Have they checked for any worn parts??? Remember worn parts must be replaced before a vehicle can be aligned. You didn't mention the miles you have.

TeJay
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:09 PM   #21
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My Goodyear 22.5 tires had similar but not as pronounced tire wear on one my steers. I rotated both of them to my rear tag axles. The rear tag axle tires that I moved to the front steer axle tread was very even. 10,000 miles and the opposite front steer tire had the type of wear that you have in your picture. Ran it through an alignment shop here in Yuma when doing rotation and they said alignment was perfect. I switched tire brands and put on new tires. The MH now rides and steers the best since I bought it. Tire shops had no logical explanation.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:26 PM   #22
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Number 1 call good year and send them the pictures ask them what can cause this.

Number 2 take it to a different alignment shop and have the alignment chcked ask them to write the numbers down that it was aligned to when you brought it in. Also ask them to check for any worn or bent parts.

Number 3 If it was alignment go to the circuit clerks office and get a small claims form and take the original alignment shop to small claims court for the price of the new alignment and 2 new tires. If it is not the alignment tell good year they owe you two new tires.

If none of the above works notify the DOT and ask them how to file a complaint. Tire wear that bad is one short short step from a blow out and could be the death of you and any innocent person that happened to be on the road with you.
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:55 AM   #23
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Heard the term Rivering for several years now. Anyone have a picture of that issue? Or a good description.

I noticed some weird wear on one of my front tires. Had the front end aligned twice now. New shocks, sway bars too. Only 17K miles on them.

Had a rear inside dual with a soft spot that was not replaced under warranty. Claimed it was not a factory defect. Just happened to notice it on inspection and the rv was parked in a position I could see it or would have had a blow out for sure.
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:42 AM   #24
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I've been reading many different opinions regarding tire, tire wear and alignment issues over the last several years. We really need to put this into the proper perspective.

Most MH RV's use either Michelin or predominately Goodyear tires consider these statements then form an opinion.

Three issues determine how a tire wears:
1. The tire manufacturer. The materials used, the QC and the the overall design, and concern for building a quality tire.

2. The chassis that uses the tire, it's alignment and suspension.

3. The owner and how he/she inflates the tire, how it is loaded, how the balance & alignment are maintained and how it is driven.

#1. TIRE CO.When one forms an opinion you have to take into consideration that GY makes thousands upon thousands upon thousands of tires. Yes from time to time they have problems in the process but when it happens it usually involved thousands of tires and sometimes recalls. But the number of defective tires in a very, very small percentage in the equation.
#2. CHASSIS BUILDER The chassis builders don't make as many units as a tire manufacturer but they do make a bunch. They are also subject to defect and that happens from time to time but again the number is small in comparison.
#3 OWNER. This is the weakest link when it comes to actual knowledge of the product and how to correctly use it. That's not a dig but the truth. We are not the tire expert nor do we build chassis but we use them. When things go wrong most will look to throw the blame elsewhere either through a lack of understanding or knowledge or just out of pure frustration. We also rely on the local repair expert for his/her knowledge & experience to align, balance, explain, consult, repair refer etc, etc. What else can we do but rely on those mechanics or technicians?? That's OK until or unless we run into a problem that even the local tech that we consulted didn't know the answer and to often, way to often they throw the blame onto the chassis builder or the tire manufacturer or the owner for doing something incorrectly.

Tires don't wear out as these tires did in 7,000 miles unless there is a serious problem. I can guarantee and promise you one thing. ANY, ANY, ANY mechanical problem can be diagnosed by a good technician who understands how things work and knows what he/she is doing. If the first guy screwed it up find somebody that knows what's going on. Because of the shear numbers of tires being made the chances of having defective tires especially two in this case are slim to none. Never accept a mechanics opinion that the alignment is just fine but I don't know why the tires wore out in 7,000 miles. That's just him trying to shift the blame onto some one or something else because he does not know the answer.

When you buy a high end toy like a MH it becomes our responsibility IMHO to learn as much about how it works and how we can recognize problems and symptoms when it begins to break so we can advise the technicians when we take it in. Consult others to get ideas. I suggested that the OP make toe measurements so he can go to a shop with some knowledge about his situation. Ask a new alignment tech what the toe should be??? Can he explain how or what would cause that amount of tire wear in 7,000 miles?? If he can't then you don't have the right tech.
Knowledge is power and even if it's new to you try to gain as much as you can before searching for another place to have the unit aligned. You might be throwing more good $$$$ away.

Someone asked about RIVERING for tire wear. I have never hear of that term before last month. Some have said that the GY tire is known for doing that. I don't believe it and I believe it is an alignment issue. Caster, camber, toe, SAI, wheel bearing adjustment, tire inflation pressures, worn suspension and steering parts and shocks all contribute to tire wear. Unless all of these areas are addressed and corrected by a qualified technician I wouldn't jump to the tire being the problem.

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Old 10-29-2013, 10:58 AM   #25
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Recently I went with a friend who was having his alignment done on his MH. It was a W22 chassis. Before his rig went inside, I stood outside and watched the supposed alignment professional check and adjust the alignments on two trucks. Then I watched the tech drive my friends RV in and perform his version of an alignment. I am a retired ASE Master Mech, and was certified in alignments and at no time did the tech lift the front end to inspect any thing on any of the three vehicles, I have been retired for a few years and I must say I didn't know that one could use a crystal ball to do alignments, but I guess one can. They tried to charge him $229 and they recommended that he should have his kingpins changed in the near future and even gave him an estimate for changing the kingpins, that is when I got involved with the ordeal. Needless to say he did not pay and we were asked to leave the facility. As we were leaving I overheard the idiot who had not performed the supposed alignment nor did the supposed inspection say "dam MH owners they think they know it all" I told him that I did not know everything but I did recognize a crook when I saw one. The guy behind the counter told him to go back to the shop.

This happens MORE often than people realize.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:04 PM   #26
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pmichetti,

You might try Pete's Road Service (Pete's Road Service, Inc. :: Tire Service, Mechanical Service, Forklift Service in Southern California). They have a number of Southern CA locations, including Escondido. They are an FMCA (Family Motor Coach Assn.) (fmca.com) commercial member and they attend various So Cal FMCA events.

The last time I needed tires, they had the best price and they were friendly and professional on the phone. In the end, Goodyear didn't have any of the tire I wanted in their distribution system on the West Coast so I didn't make the purchase. But I did get a good feeling about Pete's.

There's also Rush Truck Centers (Rush Peterbilt, International, Ford, Hino, Isuzu, Mitsubishi Fuso, UD, Autocar, Kalmar, Workhorse, Blue Bird, IC Bus, Diamond, Elkhart Truck Centers and Bus Centers.) shops in Escondido and San Diego. I personally had a good experience at their (now closed) shop in San Luis Obispo. I don't know if they do alignments.

There's also Redlands Truck Service (www.redlandstruckservice.com) in Redlands, CA. It's a bit farther away for you but everyone I've heard that's gone there had good things to say about the service if not the prices.

You might get something out of looking at the site: RV Service Reviews

I see that you've gotten replies that mention a possible history of problems with Goodyears and others that say it isn't the tires. Notwithstanding others shared experiences, one suggestion I haven't seen is to go with the best possible tire on the steering axle and any other tire you happen to like on the drive axle. Friends of ours have been leaning towards the Michelin XCA (or is it XZA) Coach tire. If you go with Michelins, don't forget the FMCA Michelin tire purchase plan discount.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:16 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
Someone asked about RIVERING for tire wear. I have never hear of that term before last month. Some have said that the GY tire is known for doing that. I don't believe it and I believe it is an alignment issue. Caster, camber, toe, SAI, wheel bearing adjustment, tire inflation pressures, worn suspension and steering parts and shocks all contribute to tire wear. Unless all of these areas are addressed and corrected by a qualified technician I wouldn't jump to the tire being the problem.

JM25CW
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You've missed the threads on it then, here's one: Motorhome Magazine Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Goodyear G670 rivering
Her's another: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f61/goody...ing-75862.html
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:10 PM   #28
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MR. D,
Thanks for the links. Well I can go to bed because I learned something new today. 444Onecomment that sounded interesting is that the rivering won't cause any real problems. I don't know if that's true but I'll watch for any signs.

Thanks,
TeJay

Man there are a lot of people with a lot of great knowledge on these forums. Thanks for sharing !!!
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