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Old 10-29-2013, 05:36 PM   #29
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Find a REAL alignment shop,your TOE-IN is waaaaay off.
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:50 PM   #30
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While reading some of the sticky links in the Spartan forum, I opened this link for the Reyco Granning IFS technical training manual. At page 22 begins the alignment procedure and specs. Hope it helps.
One of the thing affecting alignment (in that manual) is ride height. After a brain cramp I now wonder if some other tire issues, like rivering, aren't related to ride height too.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:12 PM   #31
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I would say it could be a camber issue. With a solid front axle it will take a serious front end shop to fix. Heat and extreme pressure to bend axle back to spec. That is not a tire issue IMO, I had GY tires with 22k on them, they were beginning to show signs of rivering, which is a scalloping effect on the outer portion of the tire.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:42 PM   #32
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You have a bad toe-in problem,check the tie rod to see if it is bend by hitting something. Sure looks like toe-in to me. Jim
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:24 PM   #33
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The F-53 chassis straight front axle camber is adjusted only by COLD BENDING the front axle. You can not heat the axle because it will destroy the hardness of the metal.

I watched the shop cold bend my axles on our 2014 Vista when it had just 600 miles on the chassis. It was aligned at the factory and every angle was off including the camber. It's really not that difficult if you have the right equipment. They used an I-beam, chains, 2 U-shaped yokes to go over the axle and two 40 ton hydraulic jacks. It was very interesting to watch.

Just for clarification purposes tire toe settings are referenced by how much the FRONT of the tire is angled IN or OUT. Since the OP's tires were worn on the inside edge the tires had to be toed OUT. Conversely toed IN wears the outside edges.

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Old 10-29-2013, 09:46 PM   #34
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He has a Winnebago Ultimate Freedom DP on a Spartan Chassis with independent front suspension.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:29 AM   #35
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First, I want to say thank you to this forum. As a new member you've given me lots of great information and lots to think about.
As TeJay suggested, first I need to look at my own responsibility in this problem. I have always maintained tire pressure as stated on the placard inside the RV. I have not however, checked my weight for some time. It has been brought to my attention that there are charts for proper tire pressure based on the load they are carrying and that I shouldn't rely on the RV manufacturers recommended pressure. So I'm off to the scales.
Also, I must admit that on this last trip I was driving at or near the maximum speed allowable for these tires. I wouldn't think this would cause the problem but I've been told that at higher speeds the tires can distort and potentially cause more wear.
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:55 AM   #36
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Keep in mind the tire inflation/load charts reflect the tire mfgrs minimum inflation for the corresponding load, not necessarily the optimum.
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:41 AM   #37
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I had to coach Weighed and I'm not running overweight. Both front wheels were running 5250 pounds. I downloaded the Goodyear tire pressure guide and I've been running the front tires 5 pounds under pressure at 115 (recommended 120).
I've been running the rear duels at 95 pounds, 25 pounds under what the chart says.
Goodyear pressure guide
Single
5510 120lb
6940 125lb
Dual
5070 120lb
6395 125lb
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:49 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmichetti View Post
I had to coach Weighed and I'm not running overweight. Both front wheels were running 5250 pounds. I downloaded the Goodyear tire pressure guide and I've been running the front tires 5 pounds under pressure at 115 (recommended 120).
I've been running the rear duels at 95 pounds, 25 pounds under what the chart says.
Goodyear pressure guide
Single
5510 120lb
6940 125lb
Dual
5070 120lb
6395 125lb
Can you post a link to the tire pressure chart you are using? Those tire pressures sound like max pressures. I even think 125# is the maximum pressure for the rim (they are stamped with the max psi they are rated for).

120# is going to be a pretty stiff ride.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:53 PM   #39
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This is from my 08 Endeavor manual.
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:54 PM   #40
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My spartan chassis and Goodyear 670's on a 2010 Fleetwood Providence is wearing poorly at 41,000 miles. Goodyear says that "rivering" is common, but I had them switched front to rear a year ago and they look terrible inside and outside both fronts with cupping too. Anybody have spartan chassis issues?
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:43 AM   #41
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Our G670s [295 80R] showed no significant wear on the front steer axle until about 50k miles and 4 years. Then in a matter of a few 1000s miles, the out side ribs began to wear--no cupping or scallops--just major wear on outside rib. I had both the front alignment and rear thrust angle checked and both were in/ near specs. The rear axle tires developed a much smaller [perhaps 3/4"] wear pattern on all outside ribs [both inside and out]. These patterns were more scalloped in nature. I was running 110 in the fronts and 95 lbs in the rear--more than sufficient to support our coach's weight. Tried upping the pressure on both axles to transfer more weight to the center tread of the tires [eg, 115 in fronts and 105 in the rears]. The fronts were too far gone and had to be replaced. The higher pressure in the rears seemed to slow the progression of the wear but eventually, I had to replaced them too but nearer to the expected age-out of 6 years.
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:09 AM   #42
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As Old Scout discovered, running tires at the bare minimum to support the load (inflation charts) may not be the optimum pressure for your vehicle.
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