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Old 04-18-2015, 03:51 PM   #15
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Sounds like you made it work - good job. I wonder for a future simila issue if anyone ever tried the method where a septic guy uses a camera to inspect those systems?
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
WOW! Next time I have a serious problem I'm gonna call YOU!
Thanks for the flowers, but really not all that efficient and it's just a matter of spending a lot of time in thought and theory, before mounting an attack.
One can't always do that however and it's a lot more difficult analyzing someone else's problem with questions and answers and with not being able to actually see it. Still, I'm willing to do my best with suggestions and hopefully hit it just right, once in a while.
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:51 PM   #17
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Sounds like you made it work - good job. I wonder for a future simila issue if anyone ever tried the method where a septic guy uses a camera to inspect those systems?
I imagine one could feed a small one down the vent from atop the roof, but have my doubts that you'd see much, other than the obvious. I looked at these monitors before, while the camera was deep inside a sewer pipe and almost reminded me of trying to read an x-ray.
In my case and after some thought, it was easier to just remove that side access and take a chance on what I might find. Never really thought the tank was cracked and they do look pretty durable, so anyone who has found a crack in one, please chime in.
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:57 AM   #18
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Congratulations on your fix! And I'm glad you didn't have to dig down through the floor.

The prices on inspection cameras have started to come down, and they can be very handy. I have something like THIS ONE and it can be real handy. You can feed it in through a small hole, point it at what you're working on, and see what you're doing. In your case, you could've fed it in alongside your arm, and been able to see what you were doing.

I've found the attachable magnet end great for retrieving something like a dropped bolt in an inaccessible location, and the hook end is great for snagging a pull string inside a wall cavity while pulling wires through walls. And it's great for seeing into tight spaces of the MH when coming up with a game plan how to access an area.

Besides the standard camera, I have a 3' extension, and a smaller camera that doesn't give as clear a picture, but gets inside a much smaller hole. It's wonderful and well worth it. You can sometimes get a good deal on a used unit, and there are clone knock-offs that are quite cheap.
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Old 04-19-2015, 11:05 AM   #19
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Congratulations on your fix! And I'm glad you didn't have to dig down through the floor.

The prices on inspection cameras have started to come down, and they can be very handy. I have something like THIS ONE and it can be real handy. You can feed it in through a small hole, point it at what you're working on, and see what you're doing. In your case, you could've fed it in alongside your arm, and been able to see what you were doing.

I've found the attachable magnet end great for retrieving something like a dropped bolt in an inaccessible location, and the hook end is great for snagging a pull string inside a wall cavity while pulling wires through walls. And it's great for seeing into tight spaces of the MH when coming up with a game plan how to access an area.

Besides the standard camera, I have a 3' extension, and a smaller camera that doesn't give as clear a picture, but gets inside a much smaller hole. It's wonderful and well worth it. You can sometimes get a good deal on a used unit, and there are clone knock-offs that are quite cheap.
Looks good and the price is right on a used one.
Don't suppose the camera is waterproof though or is it?
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Old 04-20-2015, 07:42 AM   #20
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Don't suppose the camera is waterproof though or is it?
I'm sure not all brands or versions are waterproof, but the one I have IS waterproof to 10'.

This is exact one I have which is discontinued. I'm not sure what the differences are with the current version (previously linked) but they look very similar. I'm guessing the differences are mostly internal, and they found a less expensive way to build the electronics and assemble the unit. (The current versions cost half of what I paid 5 years ago.)

The camera comes with the 3/4" camera which has two LEDs for lighting. The optional 3/8" camera has a single LED, and gets in tighter spaces, but doesn't have quite as clear a picture. I also have a 6' extension cable: the connector is 3/4" diameter, so while it will follow the 3/4" camera through a hole, you won't be able to get any deeper if the hole is so small that you need the smaller camera.

90% of what I do is with the larger camera. I'm torn between whether the extension or the smaller camera is used more, but if I could only choose one accessory it would probably be the smaller camera. But it's very usable with no accessories (just the 3/4" camera and its 3' cable.)
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:18 PM   #21
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My Grey tank's input from the kitchen sink sheared off even with the top of the tank where the fitting threads into the tank.
So I had the local repair guy insert a slight reducer into the top of the tank and coupled to the sink drains. It works OK now unless you over fill the tank... but after seeing the nightmare of removing the black tank first so you can then remove the grey tank, I am taking the easy way out.
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:29 AM   #22
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My Grey tank's input from the kitchen sink sheared off even with the top of the tank where the fitting threads into the tank.
So I had the local repair guy insert a slight reducer into the top of the tank and coupled to the sink drains. It works OK now unless you over fill the tank... but after seeing the nightmare of removing the black tank first so you can then remove the grey tank, I am taking the easy way out.
I'm actually realizing now, that with what I done and what I saw in the process, my grey tank would have to come out first, if one was to ever replace the black tank. Getting the grey disconnected from the bathroom appears to be the biggest challenge, but I don't really know that without removing the cover plate from underneath the driver's side wheel well for a looksee. It does seem that all this can be accomplished and was thought out ahead of time by National, or at least in my case. Even making a hole in the floor and repairing same if need be, wouldn't be that big of a deal.
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:46 AM   #23
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I hope the tank is all under just the flooring. It should make for much less of a pain. Mine is under, the furnace/refrigerator, kitchen floor, wall with cabinets by stove/oven, and it may extend under the oven. As mentioned before, two different techs tried to access from outside cabinets, in the wheel well, and underneath, all to no avail, at a cost of about $500.
We do very little boon docking, so I think we will just go with it the way it is and hope it does not get any worse. Ha.
Best of luck - hope it is relatively easy. I will be interested as to exactly where your leak is - because that is something we do not know. Situation is similar, in that it does not leak until about half full - beyond that ??????
Now, that I know a lot more than what I did in the beginning, I'd sure like seeing what kind of a setup you have there. Now, with it not leaking until half full, really doesn't sound good and could mean an actual crack in the tank. Still fixable I'm sure and as long as you could get to it. When you say leak, I assume you mean continuous and not just while underway with some splashing around. Seems that most problems arise from the pipes or connections and with the drain being the only one that's at the bottom, with the rest being on top or near the top, then half way must mean the tank itself. In my case, it's was the top of the drain, so this allowed for about one shower full before it began to leak.
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:42 PM   #24
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I also think I could fix my tank by cutting out a section of the flooring under the kitchen counter... I would surely have to be easier and cheaper than removing tanks with all the additional work involved, but then I am not a professional RV repair guy either...
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Old 04-21-2015, 06:47 PM   #25
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Out of business in 2008.
Contact the poly tank manufacturer, not the mohome builder.
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:28 PM   #26
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Here is the latest in glue for plastic systems

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/r...d_adhesive/435
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Old 04-22-2015, 11:39 AM   #27
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Contact the poly tank manufacturer, not the mohome builder.
I have the same problem - but no one can find a mfg name on the tank. And, as has been mentioned above, National made these things nearly impossible to remove without major deconstruction.
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