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Old 04-05-2015, 06:56 PM   #1
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Grey Tank Leaking

Somewhere on the side and not very far up, this tank is leaking, as it won't hold more than one shower usually and depending on the way the rig is sitting.
So, before I get into this too far, has anyone ever, or know what it takes, for getting into this thing on a coach like or similar to mine. Maybe a Dolphin or other National product for instance?
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:32 PM   #2
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contact the manufacturer
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:40 PM   #3
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contact the manufacturer
Out of business in 2008.
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Old 04-05-2015, 10:01 PM   #4
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Interesting info -
Leaking RV Holding Tank, Should You Repair or Replace It?
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Old 04-06-2015, 08:40 AM   #5
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Thanks for the link that should help some, once I'm able to get into it and would definitely try a repair first.
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:04 PM   #6
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After spending some time and wasting a lot of it, I find that the easiest and probably only feasible access is to take up the floor in the rear hallway and part of the bedroom next to the bed. Right now, it's somewhat of a guess on how much space it actually takes up, so if and when this project is to take place, I'm hoping that none of it extends under the cabinetry or at least not very far. The vent pipe coming down from the roof is right there on the edge and easily seen by pulling a lower drawer out. This could be a blessing in disguise for getting at it and usually if anybody had their act together, it was National RV.
May need to replace the linoleum, before it's over with or go with some wood laminate, but the bedroom carpet should go back in OK.
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Old 04-06-2015, 05:26 PM   #7
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I find that the easiest and probably only feasible access is to take up the floor in the rear hallway and part of the bedroom next to the bed.
Wow, that certainly doesn't sound easy!

I know you say you wasted a lot of time already, but are you sure there isn't an easier way? For example, on my rig, there is an exterior body panel that can be unscrewed and removed, which opens up the side of the compartment where the tanks are located. I can see the whole end of the black and grey tanks, and it wouldn't take too much work to disconnect them and slide them out of place.

Are you really sure there isn't any other alternative?
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Old 04-06-2015, 05:36 PM   #8
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I hope the tank is all under just the flooring. It should make for much less of a pain. Mine is under, the furnace/refrigerator, kitchen floor, wall with cabinets by stove/oven, and it may extend under the oven. As mentioned before, two different techs tried to access from outside cabinets, in the wheel well, and underneath, all to no avail, at a cost of about $500.
We do very little boon docking, so I think we will just go with it the way it is and hope it does not get any worse. Ha.
Best of luck - hope it is relatively easy. I will be interested as to exactly where your leak is - because that is something we do not know. Situation is similar, in that it does not leak until about half full - beyond that ??????
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Old 04-06-2015, 06:37 PM   #9
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Wow, that certainly doesn't sound easy!

I know you say you wasted a lot of time already, but are you sure there isn't an easier way? For example, on my rig, there is an exterior body panel that can be unscrewed and removed, which opens up the side of the compartment where the tanks are located. I can see the whole end of the black and grey tanks, and it wouldn't take too much work to disconnect them and slide them out of place.

Are you really sure there isn't any other alternative?
Like demoon says, there's just no way and most sure a DP construction is somewhat different. Actually just pulling up some carpet and linoleum isn't all that bad and there might even be an access panel under there. Just as long as it doesn't extend too far under cabinetry and if at all. If so, one could probably hack it out of there in pieces and then install a smaller or one that has a more rectangular shape.
Probably going to live with it for awhile, as the coach is getting kinda old and not sure what we might do in the near future.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:17 AM   #10
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Update:
After some more looking, prompted by ShapeShifter here, there is a box on the passenger side behind the tag wheel that may be accessible. This should allow one to at least see the one side and maybe get lucky enough to see a repairable leak. As for removing the tank completely and after removing the fender wheel wells, I'm not so sure that you could cut every drainage pipe loose without opening up the floor inside anyway. Also it seems that it's pretty far under some of the cabinetry as well. At any rate, one should probably proceed with removing the tag wheel and then attempt to open this steel box for a looksee, before going any further.
This could very well be the route that demoon's techs took with their failed attempts, so maybe we'll give it a go in the future.
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:07 AM   #11
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Sounds promising. Even if you have to go through the floor to make some pipe connections, maybe you can do it under a cabinet. It would be some work to pull the cabinet from the wall, but if you could limit the hole to the area under the cabinet, it would make the patch easier and totally invisible once the cabinet is put back. It might actually be less work in the long run, or if it turns out to be more work, it could yield a better looking result.

Also, take a very close look at your cabinets. On mine, the ones that have pipes or wires running under them and going into the floor, they have false bottoms. There are a couple screws on the bottom panel, that when removed, allow the bottom panel to be pulled out of the cabinet giving full view of the pipes, wires, and floor. If you're very lucky, you might not even have to remove the cabinet.

Good luck! I hope it turns out to be easy once you gain some access.
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:49 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ShapeShifter View Post
Sounds promising. Even if you have to go through the floor to make some pipe connections, maybe you can do it under a cabinet. It would be some work to pull the cabinet from the wall, but if you could limit the hole to the area under the cabinet, it would make the patch easier and totally invisible once the cabinet is put back. It might actually be less work in the long run, or if it turns out to be more work, it could yield a better looking result.

Also, take a very close look at your cabinets. On mine, the ones that have pipes or wires running under them and going into the floor, they have false bottoms. There are a couple screws on the bottom panel, that when removed, allow the bottom panel to be pulled out of the cabinet giving full view of the pipes, wires, and floor. If you're very lucky, you might not even have to remove the cabinet.

Good luck! I hope it turns out to be easy once you gain some access.
A lot of what you say, seems true and there are two connections accessible by pulling out a drawer, with one being the vent pipe and the other coming from the galley area. It also has a block of wood for a cover and once that's removed, it's a guess as to whether it's glued onto the tank or somehow screws on. This leaves one or two on the left port side somewhere for the shower and the BR sink. Also one to aft for the drain in the basement that curves and goes to the opposite end of the coach. This I can only see as to where it's going into the tank and through a hole, by looking under the bed, so again probably through the top flooring.
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Old 04-18-2015, 01:25 PM   #13
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Update....and I decided to go for it. Removed the starboard side tag wheel and then the grey tank cover. Got lucky after removing a block of anchoring wood in my way and saw a light crack in the top of the 1 1/2" drain next to the tank. Shimmed up the tank rear a little since there was little clearance under it, for what I had in mind. Now, here's a situation with a small working space almost at arms length and one where you can look with a flashlight and then put your left arm back in there to work, but not both. Bad enough with one hand, but having to feel your way, makes it more difficult. Anyway, after sanding with emory, as best I could and using a rubber glove, I smeared this marine plumbers goop type substance all over it. Tested it after a days drying and no leaks, but not stopping there, so bought a 1 1/2 - 2" rubber coupler that comes with two SS clamps to put over it. Thing is, you can't slide it over, like design, so cut it and fed it around the pipe with the split on top. Filled it in between with the goop and after a little drying installed the clamps. Now keep in mind that this is all being done with one hand and mostly by feel only. You might try putting one of these clamps together with one hand and getting the tightening screw started sometime, although not a bad as first thought and actually had little trouble with those. After tightening with a nut driver, I applied another coating of goop along the top, so I feel it's good to go in that area without any future problems.
All this time, I was studying possible removal and reinstall of this tank and now feel that it could be done with some difficulty and without cutting a hole in the floor. A lot of it would depend on being able to get to the other side under the wheel well and where the bath room empties into the tank. There's small access there with a plate, so enlarging it, would probably be necessary at best.
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Old 04-18-2015, 02:47 PM   #14
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Update....and I decided to go for it. Removed the starboard side tag wheel and then the grey tank cover. Got lucky after removing a block of anchoring wood in my way and saw a light crack in the top of the 1 1/2" drain next to the tank. Shimmed up the tank rear a little since there was little clearance under it, for what I had in mind. Now, here's a situation with a small working space almost at arms length and one where you can look with a flashlight and then put your left arm back in there to work, but not both. Bad enough with one hand, but having to feel your way, makes it more difficult. Anyway, after sanding with emory, as best I could and using a rubber glove, I smeared this marine plumbers goop type substance all over it. Tested it after a days drying and no leaks, but not stopping there, so bought a 1 1/2 - 2" rubber coupler that comes with two SS clamps to put over it. Thing is, you can't slide it over, like design, so cut it and fed it around the pipe with the split on top. Filled it in between with the goop and after a little drying installed the clamps. Now keep in mind that this is all being done with one hand and mostly by feel only. You might try putting one of these clamps together with one hand and getting the tightening screw started sometime, although not a bad as first thought and actually had little trouble with those. After tightening with a nut driver, I applied another coating of goop along the top, so I feel it's good to go in that area without any future problems.
All this time, I was studying possible removal and reinstall of this tank and now feel that it could be done with some difficulty and without cutting a hole in the floor. A lot of it would depend on being able to get to the other side under the wheel well and where the bath room empties into the tank. There's small access there with a plate, so enlarging it, would probably be necessary at best.
WOW! Next time I have a serious problem I'm gonna call YOU!
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