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Old 01-31-2011, 02:03 PM   #1
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Gurgurling sound from Aqua Hot

Recently the electrical water side of my aqua hot quit working when the diesel is turned on to heat water it makes loud gurgeling sounds are these suppose to be bled off for air
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:44 PM   #2
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Welcome Casa Ruby to irv2.
You may have something similar to what is going on in this thread.
Air has gotten into the plumbing of system. If your fluid levels are correct that may also eliminate an air problem.
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Old 01-31-2011, 09:12 PM   #3
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Casa Ruby - your problem is not similar to the one being discussed in the other thread. You need to check the level of coolant in your unit. Do not trust what you see in the overflow tank. Make sure your unit is cooled down then take off the radiator cap and check the actual level of the coolant. I strongly suspect you will not be able to see any fluid near the radiator cap. It should be right up to the top.

What you describe including the failure of your electrical unit sounds like your coolant has reached a critical low level. When that happens the electrical heating unit self destructs. Fortunately, that part is not expensive to replace, but you really need to be sure of your coolant level before using your aqua-hot again.

If your boiler is not full of fluid, you have a leak in your over flow tubing or may be one with a leak around the radiator cap. Depending on your skill level you may want to consider professional help.

You did not state what model you have so it is impossible to know the type of coolant you should use. My unit on our 2003 Beaver uses regular antifreeze solution. New models need boiler solution. These are usually marked on the unit that you should only use boiler solution.

On edit : I just read your two other posts where you discuss problems with your tanks. Does your coach have freeze damage? If so, you may have a more serious problem with your aqua-hot than what I discussed. Did your coach freeze up?

Also, I see you have a 2005 Travel Supreme .. you probably use boiler fluid in your aqua-hot.
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Old 01-31-2011, 09:38 PM   #4
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Bob, did you know there was notice from Aqua Hot to change from regular green anti-freeze to the red safe boiler antifreeze because of the danger of developing a leak and contaminating the drinking water.
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:31 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
Bob, did you know there was notice from Aqua Hot to change from regular green anti-freeze to the red safe boiler antifreeze because of the danger of developing a leak and contaminating the drinking water.
Mike, thank you very much for the info. I was not aware of this notice. I have not kept current on aqua hot issues for about a year now so I probably missed it. I follow Roger Berke's HydroHot forum on Yahoo Groups for my AquaHot info. I probably just missed it. We are out on the road right now, but it would be a good idea to do a change out. I just need to know how to do that correctly.

Thanks again,
Bob
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:56 AM   #6
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You should ask Roger and see what he says. He is the expert. I don't drink hot water out of the faucet (lol) so if it did leak it would not bother me but one could wash the dishes or take a shower in it. I am not sure how many of them do leak unless they freeze in the winter ($$$$). Most systems are around 15 gallons capacity. The cheapest I have found it is $11 which is real cheap Camco Boiler Anti-Freeze -100 Degrees So one would mix that 50/50. I paid $21 a gallon at an RV place.

The other thing is if you did decide to switch then how much flushing out of the system would one have to do and what would one use. Another question for you Roger.

One thing that you need to do if you drain the system is to change out the plastic drain valve. Once opened they tend to leak and Aqua Hot recommends installing a brass ball valve and a brass extension nipple from Home Depot. That is all pretty easy. I did that to mine. The hardest part is putting the 50/50 anti-freeze back in. Because it is an uphill flow into the heat exchangers. One way is to put a big five gallon bucket up on a step ladder and siphon it into the fill tube on the top then when that is full (with the burner plug disconnected) you turn on all the loops so the circulating pumps are all on then you continue it fill until it is all full. The way I did it was to get a electric drill pump from Lowes Shop ProPlumber Drill Pump at Lowes.com and I pumped the mixture in so I didn't have to have anything up a ladder. It worked great. One thing I didn't do was to bleed the system but it didn't seem to be a problem Aqua-Hot Heating Systems Inc.
I might check mine and make sure no air is in it.

Casa Ruby if you are down on anti-freeze then you should read this
Aqua-Hot Heating Systems Inc.

And about bleeding the system
Aqua-Hot Heating Systems Inc.
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:08 AM   #7
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Mike,
Thank you very much for all the info., particularly the links. They really do a good job of explaining which loops to change. This looks doable. I will look into it before our summer trip.
Thanks again,
Bob
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:13 PM   #8
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no its a texas coach and I had an o ring fail on the fresh water fill valve and was hooked to city side well the fresh water tank went critical and pushed the black and grey into bind and cracked gate valve necks
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:59 AM   #9
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Casa Ruby,

I understand. So it sounds like you are not dealing with a freeze issue. So, it would seem like step one is to get the fluid level up to the top and see how things work. You may have a small leak in the system which should be visible when things are full. (You may want to consider replacing the electrical heater before you refill it since you have to drain out some of the fluid to do that fix.)

Enjoy,
Bob
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