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Old 09-11-2016, 10:14 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Rich-n-Linda View Post
I'll bet we would, alank! I'd rather drive our coach than my Chrysler 300C or the Jeep.

I think a lot of handing issues are caused by over-inflated the tires. When we first got our coach, the previous owner had all the tires set at 110 lbs. It was unpleasant to drive. It oversteered on curves and rode rough. I weighed the coach and found that I only needed 95 psi in the rears. Changing the rear tire pressures made a HUGE difference in the way the coach handled.
I agree and that's why it's the first thing I recommend people check. I would also like to nuance my earlier comments by saying that I was referring to a Ford F53 chassis.

I don't have experience with workhorse or any other type.

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Old 09-12-2016, 05:45 AM   #16

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I agree with Rich n Linda. If your motorhome isn't one of the least fatiguing vehicles you drive, it has handling issue, you do not have driving issues.

43' Renegade/Freightliner Coronado '06
31' Coachman Liberty Edition Bunkhouse '15
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Old 09-12-2016, 06:11 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by alank View Post
I'm sorry, but I don't buy that "far off" theory for operating a vehicle at all. I don't drive that way and I don't think any of you drive that way either. I concentrate on keeping my vehicle in my lane and where my lane is going in the next 10 or 20 yards. If I didn't, I would be off in the ravine or in a head-on crash in short order.
That "far off" theory is exactly what you do in the open skies when you're not trying to miss other oncoming planes by 10 or 15 feet, or on open waters when you're not trying to miss other oncoming boats by 10 or 15 feet, or tractors in open fields, but not what you do in vehicles on our busy highways.
If your coach doesn't handle well, get it fixed. A good alignment with motorhome specs is the best thing you can do. It won't go all over the road so you won't be trying to drive it all over all the time. None of mine have handled well when I got them but with a few adjustments, the joy of the trip starts when you set down behind the wheel.

Just my $0.02 worth.
All they are saying is that a vehicles track down the road, and handling is because of a COMBINATION of vehicle, driver, and road conditions.

It doesn't make sense to focus on one or two of the three and totally refuse to address the third! I for one realize that I can ALWAYS learn more about EVERY thing! I'm not one of those lucky people who are perfect at everything . . . which my wife will vouch for at great length if asked, and probably if NOT asked as well!

Just my $6.57 worth. (2 cents, adjusted for inflation.)
Scot & Laura Kellersberger
2001 Newmar 4 wheel drive Dutch Star 3891, 2005 GMC Canyon. Demco Tow Bar & Baseplate U.S.Army (ret)
1985 - 2006
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Old 09-12-2016, 06:18 AM   #18
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You should allways be aware of what's happening 100yrds ahead of you and if you try to stay in the exact center of the lane your in your going to ware yourself out. The groves in the road made by big rigs will make you move a little but the more you correct for this the worse it gets.
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Old 09-12-2016, 06:24 AM   #19
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Agree wholeheartedly. If it makes sense to modify the vehicle for better handling, why not also consider modifying yourself? (for driving skill, not more hair, less weight, better appearance, etc )

Originally Posted by Hit_the_Rhod View Post
All they are saying is that a vehicles track down the road, and handling is because of a COMBINATION of vehicle, driver, and road conditions.

It doesn't make sense to focus on one or two of the three and totally refuse to address the third!....

George Schweikle Lexington, KY
1999 Safari TREK 2830, FMCA 190830, Safari International chapter
1995 Safari TREK 2630, 1983 Winnebago Chieftain, 1976 Midas Mini
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