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Old 11-29-2015, 05:55 AM   #15
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I'd be concerned about putting some heat into the MH but not enough to keep it moisture free. Are places like the insulation between the ceiling and roof going to be warm enough to remain dry or with the temperature variation going to be moist? The same goes for the flooring, basement storage compartments and under the dash and instrument panel.
I realize we have a variation in temperatures all the time but a few minutes of warm air in and then a cool down as the house furnace cycles on and off makes me wonder ????
If I were to try what you have thought about I would at least put a de-humidifier in the MH to see how much water it collects.
Gotta love a pessimist Huh?

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Old 11-29-2015, 06:51 PM   #16
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First off I am curious as to why you want to introduce heat to it to begin with ? It seems to me that the moisture you introduce will create more of a problem than the cold. In looking at your average winter temps you generally do not go below freezing. If you aren't actually using the MH it just seems like you could be inviting issues.

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Old 11-29-2015, 08:08 PM   #17
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Thumbs up Heating RV from House with waste heat.

Here is another thought. Depending how accessible your furnace (heater) vent is you could place a heat exchanger on the vent and capture the waste heat off of your furnace. Good accessibility, some insulated ducting, an exhaust fan blowing thru the heat exchanger, a couple Klixons for temp control and most of the problems mentioned like return air are no longer factors. Depending on where heating units are located some do vent close to ground level ready made for waste heat capture.
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Old 11-29-2015, 10:48 PM   #18
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Has anyone hooked up their home forced air heat to a MH?

Why??? It's perfectly happy being stored in the colder temps if winterized properly.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:29 AM   #19
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If you have heated storage compartments like mine, you could potentially hook up to those by putting a capped opening similar to those used for your sewage hose coming out the bottom of a compartment and run some round duct into the compartment and up to the duct that heats the compartment. I have two so I could use one for a return possibly.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:45 AM   #20
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As some have already stated, I would worry about condensation. The heated air from your house will have some moisture that may condense when blown into your cooler motorhome and cause excessive condensation problems. It may start "raining" inside your motorhome!
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:19 AM   #21
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You need to heat the basement so the water lines don't freeze and some guys suggest a light bulb to keep that area heated. MY Dutch Start heats the outside water connection compartment with furnace heat and so you need to keep that area from freezing also!
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:51 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Easyrider View Post
As some have already stated, I would worry about condensation. The heated air from your house will have some moisture that may condense when blown into your cooler motorhome and cause excessive condensation problems. It may start "raining" inside your motorhome!
I agree with these concerns. We all know what happens when heating the RV in cool/cold weather, moisture condenses on windows, in closed cabinets, etc.
Then there is the present dryer water trap in the garage that introduces moisture into the air.
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:45 AM   #23
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As was mentioned above, we seldom get down to freezing, but were approaching a freezing spell when I made the post. I wanted to get my head around various options. Had not thought about introducing moisture into the RV via home heat.

In the end, I turned on the RV furnace and set it to 45 degrees. I also put in a small floor heater with fan. I had to travel on business during the cold snap, and wanted to make sure nothing froze. I did not winterize, as the wife and I are hoping to get away a couple times this winter, and utilize the onboard systems.

I have limited water lines in the basement area, but did not consider how to keep those above freezing. A small light bulb just might be the trick.

Appreciate all the feedback and advice, great thread.
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:55 AM   #24
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Is having your hvac in the garage code compliant ? In most jurisdictions it isn't as a vehicle running in the garage could cause deadly fumes to enter the house, whether the hvac is running or not.

In boats in the Pacific Northwest all we needed was a 100 Watt light bulb to cut down humidity in the winter , works even when temps are just below freezing.

An alternative to using antifreeze is blowing out the water lines with 50psi compressed air, that way you're always almost ready to go.

As for the comment regarding exhausting the dryer back into the air returns, that is a very bad idea. Over time lint will build up in the ducts and the furnace and increases the fire hazard. Depending on your climate this can also cause severe mold problems in places you can't see. It was popular practise in the 70s but now most building codes and fire codes require the dryer to be vented outdoors.

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