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Old 09-01-2013, 10:46 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by mel stuplich View Post
...
A few years ago I got brighter/higher wattage H4 headlamp bulbs from them...
I've learned a bit about the H9 vs H11 bulbs and in that process I think the max "legal" wattage seems to be around 65W. I don't want my term of "legal" parsed too much but it looks like the bulk of street legal bulbs max out around 65W.

Granted, I doubt there are my light bulb cops out there so unless someone has the headlights aimed really badly, the only folks that will complain are the ones coming at you head on, on a 2 lane road and there is some amount of road glare.

Technically speaking, I would think that using a 100W bulb set could produce excessive heating of switches and wires. That assumes that according to the previous like I sited that there is some rather thin wiring that is in use.

In my case I would have to do major surgery because Newmar uses a Hella light assembly designed around the H9 bulb.

My Hella Lights :: 90mm Halogen Headlamp Classic Modules

I would be concerned about the extra heat generated by the higher wattage bulb in that enclosed light canister. That would be in addition to figuring out how to retro fit the light into that assembly.

Certainly, before I would do something like that I would have to rule out low voltage at my current set up. If I do find my voltage is where it should be...gonna have to cogitate on this some more.
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Old 09-01-2013, 10:51 AM   #16
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Following up to my troubleshooting question...

Couldn't I just measure the voltage from the + on the headlight connector to ground to see what the voltage is at the headlight? That would at least give me a point of reference. then, could I measure the voltage at the batteries + to ground and compare?

Just trying to think this out loud.
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:29 PM   #17
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Looking at the information is very interesting. The first hurdle to me is following how to measure voltage drop. All the information in the link suggests car based approach where the battery is close at hand for the most part.

So...

The first step of diagnosis is the voltage drop measurements. How would we do that given some of us have nearly 40' between the batteries and the headlights?

Any thoughts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky_Boss View Post
Following up to my troubleshooting question...

Couldn't I just measure the voltage from the + on the headlight connector to ground to see what the voltage is at the headlight? That would at least give me a point of reference. then, could I measure the voltage at the batteries + to ground and compare?

Just trying to think this out loud.
I would say "yes, that should work", however in order to supply
a full 12vdc to your headlights you will need a good 12vdc supply up front where your headlights are.

On my 2000 DSDP I have a main 12v supply under the "hood" and between the headlights. It is a box with several fuse boxes, the daytime driving light relay, and of course the large positive and negative supply cables. I used those to check for full voltage, and then checked the voltage at the headlight connectors with the bulbs plugged in and the lights on and engine running. Of course I did check voltage with all scenarios; lights on-off, engine running and not running, etc.

I found that my voltage was very low to my headlights. I installed the relays and used the large supply cables for my 12v supply to my headlights. When completed I had full voltage to my headlights.
I also installed the brighter headlight bulbs, GE Night Hawk 9007NH (or Philips VisionPlus 9007VP), as suggested by Daniel Stern Lighting.

I believe the headlights are now acceptable since I no longer complain about not being able to see, but still less than what one gets with the new cars, like our Jeep Grand Cheeroke... nice and bright.
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:53 PM   #18
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not sure if some one said it but most headlights are from some type of ford/GM trucks and cars not sure if yours are but if they are and can find out what they came from i am sure you can find alot in the after market world
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Old 09-01-2013, 10:51 PM   #19
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Voltage drop in the OEM circuitry is/used to be rampant throughout the automotive industry, and obviously the MH industry. Some years ago I received a notice from GM about my 02 Silverado and dim headlights, the wire size was too small. They made a relay harness that bypassed the OEM headlight circuit so the driver could actually see night driving.
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Old 09-02-2013, 01:21 AM   #20
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I have Hella E-code (european) lights in my 99 Beaver with 90/130 H4 bulbs. For that setup you need the relays or you're likely to set the headlight switch on fire (did that once with the same setup in a Volkswagen Golf).

This setup works so well you can't even notice when the crappy OEM fog lights are turned on.
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