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Old 12-15-2011, 04:03 PM   #1
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Heater Fan Resistor

Hi there, I have a 1995 Triple E Empress 36ft. Diesel Class A, the heater fan works on all speeds except HIGH. I have replaced the switch, not the problem, I have been told the fan is working fine. I purchased (from a dealer), after a little chasing around, the resistor. Problem, it will not plug into the connector that connected to the old resistor.

Does any one have suggestions.

Bob B.

thanks
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Old 12-15-2011, 04:39 PM   #2
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The resistor is not bad.. on "HIGH" it's also not there (Used, It is bypassed)

Now, depending on your coach it may be bypassed by the speed selection switch (NOT SURE) or by a relay (Coaches based on the GM wiring plan like Workhorse Chassis rigs)

My guess is you have a "HIGH SPEED RELAY' that is..... shot.
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Old 12-15-2011, 05:32 PM   #3
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I agree 100%. Take that resister back because it is not used in HIGH. Normally the resister selection or no resister is done by the fan switch. I would guess you need to check the connectors and wires or as said a relay.
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:41 AM   #4
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Thanks for your reply, could this be a fan motor problem. I sure appreciate you guys trying to help me out. It is amazing that some one at the RV dealership would not have suggested this. Anyway I am on my way back with the part.

thanks again. Merry Christmas

Bob B.
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:42 AM   #5
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I think you have a blown fuse. I believe the high fan uses a seperate 20 amp fuse. The other posters are correct. the resister is not used on high.
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob1 View Post
Thanks for your reply, could this be a fan motor problem. I sure appreciate you guys trying to help me out. It is amazing that some one at the RV dealership would not have suggested this. Anyway I am on my way back with the part.

thanks again. Merry Christmas

Bob B.
Your post just popped up. no it can not be the motor. You have only one wire going to the motor. If it runs on lower speeds the motor is good.
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:58 AM   #7
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You're going to have to do some electrical detective work it sounds like. Because there's so much amperage required to run the blower on high, the blower switches set up to run the motor directly often fried. That could be your problem? Usually, if the switch is the issue, it'll be pretty obvious by the presence of molten or burnt areas.

Most I've worked on though, use a separate relay to control the "high" blower speed. This gets that amperage demand out of the blower switch to prevent frying that (excellent plan!). A relay is much better suited to handle switching duties for that kind of power requirement. Often, the blower power going through that relay has it's own fuse - and as suggested above that could be your problem, as could the relay itself.

With so many different variables it's really difficult to suggest much more that might help you figure out what's going on? The only other thing I can think of to suggest might be to trace the single wire coming from the motor (if possible) to see if it doesn't lead you to a nearby relay?

Your dealership's staff has proven their ineptitude/incompetence by suggesting the need for the resistor block. You'll need to find somebody else to give you a hand if necessary. I would NOT allow them to work on it.
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:03 PM   #8
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Maybe this will help. This is a thread I started.
cab blower problems
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:47 PM   #9
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Thanks for your help. I think I know where the fuses are some I am going to try this out today.

bob b
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