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12-15-2018, 07:28 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 8
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Heavy rain Atwood hot water heater fault
We had 7” of heavy rain over the last 24 hrs and my 10 gal Atwood hot water heater faulted out. After reset it does heat the water but faults out one temp is reached. This happens on gas or electric. Could the rain have caused this?
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12-15-2018, 08:19 AM
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#2
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Senior Member/RVM #90
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 54,578
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!
Could rainwater get to the circuit board?
Noticed you are kinda new on IRV2 and wanted to say hello! Have fun and keep her between the ditches!
Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
__________________
Joe & Annette
Sometimes I sits and thinks, sometimes I just sits.....
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT, 2013 Honda CRV AWD
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12-15-2018, 08:25 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Vancouver Wash
Posts: 7,227
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yes.....I would try to fab a deflector to somewhat keep that from happening, although they make a circuit board relocation kit.....call them...
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12-15-2018, 09:18 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Duluth, MN
Posts: 411
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Mean while, check all the electric connections that you can unplug\plug in for corrosion. The added water may have interfered with the contact.
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Kent and Sally Lunda 2006 Newmar Mountain Aire 4141 4 Slide 400HP Cummins, Spartan Chassis, Hydro Hot 2016 Ford Explorer (Toad)
Living the dream until the money runs out.
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12-15-2018, 09:34 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,643
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You didn't post which model you have but from a previous post your RV is a 2016 year so that means the Atwood uses DC for control of both electric & propane functions
You stated the water heater 'faults' out and will heat after reset but faults out again-----electric AND propane
Only one item will 'fault' for both heat sources.
That is the ECO (Energy Cut Off---High Temp t-stat)
WHEN it Opens it triggers the RED Fault light regardless if on electric, propane or both.
(Propane will trigger Red Fault if it fails to light/prove flame also)
BUT the ECO opening is only thing when on electric that can trigger the Red Fault light.
So either the 'connections' on RED wire ar loose/dirty/corroded causing interference with DC Voltage on circuit to ECO/gas valve solenoids
**(could be at edge connector on circuit board, at spade/terminals on ECO or Gas Valve Solenoids or Ground wire from solenoids)
OR
The T-stat is not opening at 140*F (failed closed) and the ECO is opening due to HIGH water temp (180*F)
***IF you have an 'XT' model that uses mixing valve the t-stat should open at 155*F/ECO is still at 180*F (same wiring scheme just different temp controls)
Clean up the 'connections'
Test water temp ----full hot into glass with thermometer
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I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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12-15-2018, 09:41 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob caldwell
yes.....I would try to fab a deflector to somewhat keep that from happening, although they make a circuit board relocation kit.....call them...
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'Relocation Kit'....that is for Furnace Circuit Board NOT water heater circuit board
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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12-15-2018, 10:39 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 8
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Thanks all for your suggestions. I inspected all the connections. When doing so I saw moisture inside the clear insulator on the thermocouple. I removed the insulator and took a hair dryer and dried everything I could reach including the circuit board, the eco and thermostat. It’s now about 12 hours later and all seems to be functioning well.
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12-15-2018, 11:17 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickster7753
Thanks all for your suggestions. I inspected all the connections. When doing so I saw moisture inside the clear insulator on the thermocouple. I removed the insulator and took a hair dryer and dried everything I could reach including the circuit board, the eco and thermostat. It’s now about 12 hours later and all seems to be functioning well.
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that is not a thermocouple.
it is a thermal cut off....one shot fuse that blows when exposed to 190*F temps due to blow-back of flame from combustion chamber for an obstruction
ALL DC has to pass thru it for rest of circuits to function
Moisture inside the tube/on the thermal device shouldn't have been an issue
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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12-16-2018, 10:52 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Zebulon, NC
Posts: 5,208
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Welcome to the forum!!
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Kelly and Jerry Powell with Halo (Lethal White Aussie), Nash the Rat Terrorist, and now Reid, the "Brindle we have no idea puppy"
2020 Grand Design Solitude 390RK-R
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12-17-2018, 12:12 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,728
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I believe with the drying out of everything you also dried out the are where the Tstat is. You may need to order a new one just for spare. They are cheap and worth having one in spares. The pack should include the new cover for it also. I just had to replace mine this year after it acted the same way. Buy it online its cheaper than CW.
Atwood 91447 Water Heater ECO Thermostat Assembly
Atwood 93866 Water Heater Thermal Cut-Off Kit
Found these on AMAZON
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Retired Navy Submariner
2014 Itasca Sunstar 35F; 5 Star tuned; 2014 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk
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