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08-04-2013, 10:34 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1
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Help reading my gauges.
I thought I understood how to read the control panel in my 2010 Istacha Sunstar and now I am not sure. For LP and Battery I have green light on full, green light on 2/3, Yellow on 1/3 and red on the E light. So what is the reading on this is between a 1/3 and 2/3? Please explain. Thanks
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08-04-2013, 10:48 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kitts Hill, OH
Posts: 2,252
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I'm gonna guess and say both the yellow and green lights are on??
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08-04-2013, 11:00 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 7,469
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A picture of the gauge would help us answer your question.
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2009 Winnebago Chalet 231CR
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08-05-2013, 12:02 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 893
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What is the green and yellow for?
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08-05-2013, 12:03 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 893
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This might be your holding tank indicators.
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08-05-2013, 05:11 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Where the Rig is Parked
Posts: 1,397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brumeiser
I thought I understood how to read the control panel in my 2010 Istacha Sunstar and now I am not sure. For LP and Battery I have green light on full, green light on 2/3, Yellow on 1/3 and red on the E light. So what is the reading on this is between a 1/3 and 2/3? Please explain. Thanks
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It is full. The reading is the highest light lit. If your battery were on say 1/3 only the yellow would be on.
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08-05-2013, 06:25 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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meaningless... The lights show only the minimum in each group.
So up to 1/3 you get the red light, From 1/2 to 2/3 the yellow light, and from 2/3 to full the green..
But the battery iudicator "Take off" point (Test point) is no where near the battery in most coaches. For example in mine it is about 10-12 feet from the converter and a good 30 from the battery, thus it reads CONVERTER voltage, not battery voltage.. Absolutly useless. I have a second indicator (Digital voltmeter in fact) that is closer to the battery. and yet another way to test (Digital voltmeter) which I can use ON the batteries.
So this is what the battery indicator means..> FULL (Green) The converter is working.
Anything else; The converter is NOT working
IT will not indicate the true state of charge of the battery under most any condition (If you turn off EVERY 12 volt device, then it gets close. but still off)
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Home is where I park it!
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08-06-2013, 12:59 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 893
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news. But it sounds like you have a bad grounding wire. Check the wiring harness to level gauges unit. Make sure you don't have a loose connection somewhere.
QUOTE=wa8yxm;1672131]meaningless... The lights show only the minimum in each group.
So up to 1/3 you get the red light, From 1/2 to 2/3 the yellow light, and from 2/3 to full the green..
But the battery iudicator "Take off" point (Test point) is no where near the battery in most coaches. For example in mine it is about 10-12 feet from the converter and a good 30 from the battery, thus it reads CONVERTER voltage, not battery voltage.. Absolutly useless. I have a second indicator (Digital voltmeter in fact) that is closer to the battery. and yet another way to test (Digital voltmeter) which I can use ON the batteries.
So this is what the battery indicator means..> FULL (Green) The converter is working.
Anything else; The converter is NOT working
IT will not indicate the true state of charge of the battery under most any condition (If you turn off EVERY 12 volt device, then it gets close. but still off)[/QUOTE]
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08-07-2013, 09:45 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 962
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Wa8yxm,
Not sure of the wiring in your coach, but I do not understand what distance to the battery has to do with this? To test voltage (very low current draw application, thus only a small wire is needed) there would be a negligible voltage drop over a 30 foot wire. If you were pulling a heavy load across that wire, sure, but to merely test voltage you will get an accurate reading.
Chris
Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm
meaningless... The lights show only the minimum in each group.
So up to 1/3 you get the red light, From 1/2 to 2/3 the yellow light, and from 2/3 to full the green..
But the battery iudicator "Take off" point (Test point) is no where near the battery in most coaches. For example in mine it is about 10-12 feet from the converter and a good 30 from the battery, thus it reads CONVERTER voltage, not battery voltage.. Absolutly useless. I have a second indicator (Digital voltmeter in fact) that is closer to the battery. and yet another way to test (Digital voltmeter) which I can use ON the batteries.
So this is what the battery indicator means..> FULL (Green) The converter is working.
Anything else; The converter is NOT working
IT will not indicate the true state of charge of the battery under most any condition (If you turn off EVERY 12 volt device, then it gets close. but still off)
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American Revolution 40L CAT C9
Samsung 197, TireMinder, Ready Brute Elite with Wrangler
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08-07-2013, 12:21 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tasmania now, USA/Canada/Alaska in April
Posts: 2,473
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It is also possible that neither the Propane nor the battery is even hooked up on your rig.
Have they ever shown anything different?
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RVs. USA - Airstream Cutter; in Australia - MC8 40' DIY Coach conversion & OKA 4x4 MH; in Germany - Hobby Class C; in S America - F350 with 2500 10.6 Bigfoot camper
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08-08-2013, 12:09 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 893
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Because your motorhome is indeed an automobile, the electricity in an automobile works very different from household electricity. With AC power distance do not matter, but with battery or DC power (your 12 volt system) you loose power for every foot of wire you add to your system. You could be loosing all your current at the end where the gauges tell you tank level, etc. so by measure the distance you can figure out how power your actually losing. I hope this make sense. You might want to have someone who knows a lot about RV's show you what I mean. In any case I still think you have a bad wire somewhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by akeyzoo
Wa8yxm,
Not sure of the wiring in your coach, but I do not understand what distance to the battery has to do with this? To test voltage (very low current draw application, thus only a small wire is needed) there would be a negligible voltage drop over a 30 foot wire. If you were pulling a heavy load across that wire, sure, but to merely test voltage you will get an accurate reading.
Chris
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08-08-2013, 03:23 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 181
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I call my display the "idiot Board." Just like the idiot lights on your cars dash, they're pretty but
absolutely useless. The Lp's never accurate. The Fresh Water tells me the tank is wet inside (maybe). The black holding tank is always full and mostly when empty. The gray water, I wait for an odor to confirm its status. Now the house battery light somewhat works but only on shore power and generator. Other then that, it's also useless normally stuck on yellow. I use a metering device to fill the water tank just so I have an accurate starting point to wag.
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