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Old 03-29-2012, 07:11 AM   #15
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I had a 50 amp box installed outside where I park her. It gets hot in Tallahassee and I run the air when it gets hot .It may be overkill ...but so is my 40 ft. pusher

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Old 03-29-2012, 07:32 AM   #16
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It really depends on what you want to run in the MH and enclosure at one time. That's your decision. Remember 50amp 220 (vs 30a 110) is really like getting (100a 110) so whatever you decide just consider a 4 wire 50 and not a 3 wire welder circuit if you decide on 50 so it will work like the Cg pedistals. One thought would be to run the 3 wire 220 XXa (isolated ground at the garage) out to the location and then split it off so you have a couple outlets on the walls for other things like lights, air comp, sound etc. The 20amp 110v duplex receptables grab the plugs better than the 15ampers. Make sure whatever length wires they run are adequit for the power required so you don't have much voltage drop per code. Your needs for air conditioning, el. heaters, and other misc. lights will determine your neeeds. Like others have said you only want to do it once so plan a little reach in your system. Michigan here so I have 100amp 220 going to the 40X64 barn and a 30amp 110 feeding the MH. I'm setup for 2 big welders so tharts why the 100amp. The capacity of the run is what you want to get right as inside can be easily split as you wish later. I'd vote for the 30a in your case to feed the MH.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:48 AM   #17
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Have had 50 for five years in our old place. Now have 15 amp for the past year with frig, freezer, etc. on-no problem in the new house/hangar. We do not run(need) AC.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:49 AM   #18
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The only difference between a 3 wire and 4 wire service is with 4 wire you are running
2 grounds that are connected to the same common ground(neutral) in your service
box. Not to be confused with the wiring of the outlet that you plug into that has to be
wired so it has two grounds.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:03 AM   #19
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I would put in the 50 amp. I know me, the first thing after putting in a 15 I would want to run both AC's, run the hot water heater, run a battery charger, a space heater to thaw the sewer pipes and an air compressor to fill the tires/ blow out the water. Just saying'.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:14 AM   #20
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I ran 30 amp for mine. Most of the time while in storage I am using 2-3 amps. I can run one AC or heat pump if I need to while plugged in.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:19 AM   #21
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I wish I had the luxury of a barn but my pad is outside the building line in our housing development so there is no way to build a cover. I put in 50 amp to service the coach. Most of the time I step down to 30 amp to store the coach. However, when we have visitors, the RV becomes another living area for us so I use 50 amp to be able to use both A/C units for comfort in hot Texas summers. It is much easier to step down than to step up in power. I suggest always providing 50 amp service. It gives so much more flexibility.

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Old 03-29-2012, 08:22 AM   #22
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You are so helpful, the best. You’ve given me a lot to think about. I was not considering what might be needed in the future but what was used in the past while parked at home. The 50 or 30 amp’s long run around the house, through the rock garden and trees, across the lawn over the irrigation system and well wiring were blinding me, plus wanting to keep it simple. But nothing is ever simple with RVing, is it?



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Old 03-29-2012, 08:34 AM   #23
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Sandi the old saying is if it is worth doing do it right. And if you are not sure contact
a licensed electrician we have to pass test so will be able to advise so you are in code
and safe.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:49 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lenjen View Post
We will be running electricity to our new MH garage and I was asked if I wanted 20, 30 or 50 amp service? 30 & 50 will require 250 feet under ground run and extra expense. To me 50 would be over kill for any situation. 30 amps would allow a/c use for an extra bedroom if ever needed and 20 amps would keep the refrigerator running.

We are only doing this once so I need to get it right. Can anyone think of a real reason to need any more than the 20 amps for 99.9% of the time in a parked MH?

Do you keep your RV plugged it when it is not in use or parked between outings?
Unless there is a great difference in the cost I would install the 50Amp service and never have to look back. I store my unit in a commercial storage facility with 30 Amp power and have on a few occasions found a tripped breaker. Because of this we must empty the fridge. If I had the greater capacity it would not be a worry.

At my home, I can only keep it here for short periods, I have the 50 Amp service and never have a problem.

Good luck.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:52 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wb7auk View Post
Sandi the old saying is if it is worth doing do it right. And if you are not sure contact
a licensed electrician we have to pass test so will be able to advise so you are in code
and safe.
Thank you, my grandson is a licensed commercial electrician and has his own company. His advice was the 50 amps. My dilemma was where the panel box is located that is needed for the 30 or 50. No easy way to get the service from there to the RV garage. The 20 amp can be run from a much closer location and not be a difficult install.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:11 AM   #26
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I bought some heavy gauge aluminum wire that is used for 100A mobile home service (was cheaper than the 50A copper stuff) and put a 100A panel in my barn. It's direct-bury (no conduit necessary). I put a 50A service in for my coach, and also lights and outlets for the barn. No need to skimp on power unless you have to.
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Old 03-29-2012, 03:30 PM   #27
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20 amp is a standard house type outlet (They come in 15 and 15/20 amp) and most electricians hook them up properly every time.

30 amp is a TT-30, and is wired IDENTICALLY to a 20 amp only with heavier wire, MANY electricians however do not know that and wire it WRONG, costing you hundreds of dollars in repairs to your RV.. EVEN some RV owners (I have read of 2 on the forums so far) wire 'em wrong.

50 amp are different (120/240 volt same as a range or dryer) and are usually wired properly.

Though I would recommend 30 amp... And I'd wire it for 30 amp.. If you go 30 amp MEASURE TEH VOLTAGE BEFORE# YOU PLUG IN If you see any voltage over 150 DO NOT PLUG IN.

If the electrician puts in a double breaker DO NOT PLUG IN.

Your volt meter should work the same on a 30 amp as it does the 15/20 amp outlets elsewhere in the shop. (Flat blades 120 volt, ONE of them (The short flat on a 15/20) to round 120 volt, the other one to round ZERO)
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Old 03-29-2012, 03:36 PM   #28
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Quote:
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30 amp is a TT-30, and is wired IDENTICALLY to a 20 amp only with heavier wire, MANY electricians however do not know that and wire it WRONG, costing you hundreds of dollars in repairs to your RV.. EVEN some RV owners (I have read of 2 on the forums so far) wire 'em wrong.
Good point. Make SURE he doesn't wire this like a welder circuit. 30A should be connected to a SINGLE POLE breaker and has ONE hot leg. (Hmmm, I once knew a waitress in Austin that fit that description.)

Just think of that Austin waitress with one hot leg and a single pole, and you're sure to remember what to tell the electrician!
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