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Old 12-16-2018, 07:21 AM   #1
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Hitch Drop Issue 2012 Suncruiser

I recently traded in my 5th wheel for a 2012 Itasca 35p suncruiser. I will be towing my car on a tow dolly. Why I chose dolly over 4down is for another thread. So naturally the dolly tongue must pull level. Problem is to accomplish this I need to use an 8" drop. The manual on the motorhome (page 12-4) indicates the drop can not exceed 4". I assume this is because of fulcum forces on the hitch. No dolly or trailer I have seen can reach this hitch with a 4" drop. It is clearly 1 foot higher than my 3/4 ton truck hitch was (to give an example of the height of this thing). The manual also says not to modify the receiver. Wife says I read too much. yes I do read manuals. This seems like mission impossible. what have others done?
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Old 12-16-2018, 07:48 AM   #2
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I'd go with a 6" drop receiver and stay away from towing anything that is close to the max weight limit or tongue weight limit of your hitch.
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Old 12-16-2018, 07:54 AM   #3
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I flat tow behind my Adventurer. I know the manual says 4” max but I use a 10” drop. You pretty much have to with the hitch sky high on these gassers. eTrailer sells one made of solid, not hollow, tubing.
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Old 12-16-2018, 07:56 AM   #4
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I would think that another option would be to alter the tongue on the dolly.
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Old 12-16-2018, 08:22 AM   #5
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I had a similar issue and corrected it by unbolting and lowering my receiver to below the frame rails. I posted some pics of finished receiver. Click on my user name, go to stats,posts by me, page 4 thread name "storm hitch bolts", post#13 on 7-10-17. Works perfect, and no, I did not ask permission from the owners manual before I made the change. I just implement all over kill procedures when making changes and always remember that
(every action has an equal and opposite reaction) before ripping anything apart. Solved the problem and works great, over 5,000 miles so far.
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:00 AM   #6
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I had to go with 6 inch drop to avoid dragging the ramps when using the Stehl Dolly

Thousands of miles and no sign of anything stressing

Keep in mind with a dolly you have very low tongue weight as compared to what a trailer could have, so I don't see an issue given the receiver is welded on properly to the structure
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:43 AM   #7
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Thanks I followed your thread and found that the issue seems not to be with the fulcrum leverage or hitch strength but apparently one of the angle on the dangle. It seems it’s more a geometry problem. If the ball is lower than the 4” drop then it could scrap on the ground at a steep incline. Now I got to dig out my old geometry book to figure out how steep an incline before I hit bottom. Anyone with a class a and a 8” drop have a scraping issue? Thanks everyone my first motorcoach and I can’t afford problems.
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Old 12-16-2018, 11:12 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by popeye305 View Post
Thanks I followed your thread and found that the issue seems not to be with the fulcrum leverage or hitch strength but apparently one of the angle on the dangle. It seems itís more a geometry problem. If the ball is lower than the 4Ē drop then it could scrap on the ground at a steep incline. Now I got to dig out my old geometry book to figure out how steep an incline before I hit bottom. Anyone with a class a and a 8Ē drop have a scraping issue? Thanks everyone my first motorcoach and I canít afford problems.
I forgot to mention in my earlier post that by moving my reciever below the frame rails,dropped it 5"and that I still use a 4" drop to keep my acme tow dolly between 14"-16". I also am using the 2 size ball type, so the larger ball that I am not using, hangs down 2"-3" and it has not dragged on anything yet. Basically instead of using a 9-10" drop, I have split the load between the receiver and drop hitch. I am also positive that just about every motor home is going to different, ie, chassis overhang, weight of chassis and occc of chassis. My terra has a occc of over 5000 lbs, is built on a 22000 lb chassis mostly because of the length of coach, could have been put on a lessor lb chassis otherwise.So ultimately I believe it rides higher because of that. I also did the same receiver drop on a 2014 sunstar, can't remember for sure, but I want to say that was 32-36 feet long.
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Old 12-16-2018, 02:19 PM   #9
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I had a 6" drop on a Monaco pusher that was my first rig. And I frequently found myself "plowing" (dragging) as I entered various campgrounds or fuel stations. No damage (other than loss-of-powdercoat) to the bottom of the drop hitch. You get used to it, and thus you approach such driveways with caution (and very low speed). It's a hard-landing that you want to prevent. And telling your significant other "I think we're about to drag" defuses the surprise factor.
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Old 12-16-2018, 02:31 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by popeye305 View Post
Thanks I followed your thread and found that the issue seems not to be with the fulcrum leverage or hitch strength but apparently one of the angle on the dangle. It seems itís more a geometry problem. If the ball is lower than the 4Ē drop then it could scrap on the ground at a steep incline. Now I got to dig out my old geometry book to figure out how steep an incline before I hit bottom. Anyone with a class a and a 8Ē drop have a scraping issue? Thanks everyone my first motorcoach and I canít afford problems.
Don't even come close to scraping with the Tuscany
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Old 12-16-2018, 04:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popeye305 View Post
Thanks I followed your thread and found that the issue seems not to be with the fulcrum leverage or hitch strength but apparently one of the angle on the dangle. It seems it’s more a geometry problem. If the ball is lower than the 4” drop then it could scrap on the ground at a steep incline. Now I got to dig out my old geometry book to figure out how steep an incline before I hit bottom. Anyone with a class a and a 8” drop have a scraping issue? Thanks everyone my first motorcoach and I can’t afford problems.
Every time you add an adapter (or multiple adapters) you start reducing the tongue and tow rating (some say by half). The most stress on the hitch/receiver is when you are braking.
Here is a pic of the original hitch on my Class A DP - this bolted to the bottom of the frame with the proper class5 bolts (we have debated the classes already)


This is what happened on my first trip with a towed - notice the 8" riser on the middle



Notice the front bolts are missing on this pics


The best way to combat all the adapters is have it built into a custom hitch. Here is a pic of the custom hitch I had made that not only is made out of 1/2" steel but is connected at the bottom, side and top of the frame.


Cost was $750.
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Old 12-16-2018, 05:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popeye305 View Post
I recently traded in my 5th wheel for a 2012 Itasca 35p suncruiser. I will be towing my car on a tow dolly. Why I chose dolly over 4down is for another thread. So naturally the dolly tongue must pull level. Problem is to accomplish this I need to use an 8" drop. The manual on the motorhome (page 12-4) indicates the drop can not exceed 4". I assume this is because of fulcum forces on the hitch. No dolly or trailer I have seen can reach this hitch with a 4" drop. It is clearly 1 foot higher than my 3/4 ton truck hitch was (to give an example of the height of this thing). The manual also says not to modify the receiver. Wife says I read too much. yes I do read manuals. This seems like mission impossible. what have others done?
Make sure your tow dolly brakes work great !! My American Tow Dolly recommends 16-17" its the mass of the car without brakes will break in a sudden stop !!
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:02 PM   #13
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