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Old 10-27-2013, 11:56 AM   #15
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Our first MH was a class C without leveling jacks. I made four leveling blocks two 2X12X18" and two 4X12X18" I beveled a ramp on one end of each with my chain saw. I then cross drilled them near each end and the center using a long 3/8" drill bit. Then using 3/8" all-thread I made through bolts to prevent cracking. I still carry them in our current rig and they never cracked. I screwed carrying straps to both sides of them.

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Old 10-27-2013, 12:16 PM   #16
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I owned a Class C with no jacks. I bought two treated 2x12x12'. I cut them into 1, 2 and 3' lengths with 45 degree cuts. I nailed them together with hot dipped galvanized nails which made stairsteps so I could back up on them to whatever height I needed. Worked for me.
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Old 10-27-2013, 12:51 PM   #17
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I added ropes to mine so I could pull them out without squatting to find the hole for the awning rod. As for putting blocks under the tires, just make sure your duals are equally supported.

Don G.
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Old 10-27-2013, 01:11 PM   #18
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Home made jack pads

Thank you all for the photos and comments. Based on the feedback I will be making plywood pads for a lower profile. I will still attach the stall mat on one side so I have the option of hard or soft. So far (drive way gravel and one outing) they worked well on the first outing. Maybe by ensuring the crown of he grain is together and rotated they will last a little longer before cracking. I will keep you all informed and post new pictures when I make plywood pads as well.
Take care and drive safe!
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Old 10-27-2013, 01:18 PM   #19
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These are made out of 2 x 12" lumber covered with 5/8" plywood. The screws are around the periphery of the wood so the tires never hit a screw. The ends are tapered for easy roll-up and each piece is a little longer than the others. This is what I use at the stick house.

For the field (on travel) I have two 16" pieces and 4 12" inch or so pieces. I also carry some of those plastic square pieces for additional height, or smaller heights as the plastic pieces are an inch or so. Give me some latitude. I can also use those smaller 12" lengths for under the jacks if the ground is soft. The ones I carry for on-the-road are about the same as the top one in the ramp picture.

I have been using these same ramps and on-the-road pieces for 5 years now without any major cracking. The plywood is very flexible being that it is laminated and holds everything together.
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Old 10-27-2013, 01:31 PM   #20
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I agree that store bought jack pads are over priced, if you can make your own...AND...Does anyone have a fix for the situation where the ground is off level?

Flat Jack Pads are great, but I have found I need to make a few that are angled for those less than perfectly flat spots.

Issues I see:
Jack pad might slip on uneven surface (needs tread?).
Thin end of angled jack pad is more at risk of breakage?
Square pads are easier to make, but are round jack pads better (no corners to crack/break)?

Thanks for any insight.
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Old 10-27-2013, 02:54 PM   #21
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We just got the horse stall mat from the hay and feed store. Cut it up into squares into the size we wanted. Use the for jack pads and a few other things.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:34 PM   #22
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These are made out of 2 x 12" lumber covered with 5/8" plywood. The screws are around the periphery of the wood so the tires never hit a screw. The ends are tapered for easy roll-up and each piece is a little longer than the others. This is what I use at the stick house.

For the field (on travel) I have two 16" pieces and 4 12" inch or so pieces. I also carry some of those plastic square pieces for additional height, or smaller heights as the plastic pieces are an inch or so. Give me some latitude. I can also use those smaller 12" lengths for under the jacks if the ground is soft. The ones I carry for on-the-road are about the same as the top one in the ramp picture.

I have been using these same ramps and on-the-road pieces for 5 years now without any major cracking. The plywood is very flexible being that it is laminated and holds everything together.
hey that was my idea!!!!! do ya think 2x16 would work on the dules same idea but maybe 2x4''s under them so they won't split?
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:14 AM   #23
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hey that was my idea!!!!! do ya think 2x16 would work on the dules same idea but maybe 2x4''s under them so they won't split?
I think 2 x 16's are a little overkill. All that is needed is to support the full footprint of the tire. Would a 2 x 16 do that on a set of duals taking the space between the duals into consideration? How would you run the 2 x 4's? What about the spacing between the 2 x 4's? Plywood is laminated and is the suggested method of keeping 2x's from splitting. Actually it doesn't really keep the 2x12's from cracking but it does hold it all together so that you can get a much longer lifespan out of the ramps/jack pads.

Just thinkin' outloud.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:28 AM   #24
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I wish I had the jacks to level my MH
I am thinking about the plywood to make ramps out of to level the MH, I think that I would need 2x4's under the plywood so the plywood won't worp, I am thinking ea one a 2x16 for the rears Do you think that will work. I don't have the $4000.00 to have jacks installed.
Our camping partners have an 85 Winnebago Brave and John adapted the scissors style jacks to his unit for leveling. The 2 X 2 receiver trailer hitch setup was modified with two slide in inserts that have the jacks attached. The front units are similar but are slid onto the frame at deployment. An 18 volt impact wrench supplies the power and when everything is down his setup is just as firm and solid as our HWH equipped unit.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:29 AM   #25
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Here is a picture of my home made jack pads. After pricing them online, and there are very nice ones available that cost a lot of money, I spent 28 dollars for a 2x12x12 pressure treated board. I cut them into 12x12 inch blocks. Attached them with the crown of grain on the boards to the inside and rotated then 45 degrees. I have a stall mat and cut enough for the tops (or bottom if you need to protect the parking pad. I had an old dog training lead that I cut for handles and used heavy staples usually used for horse wire fencing to attach the handles. Total cost of wood was 28.00. The rest I found around the house. In considering what to use I wanted a hard surface on one side and a good reliable rubber surface on the other. This gives me the option depending on the surface I am parked.
Pretty much what I did some years ago except I rotated the grain 90, laminated them with glue and decking screws, then drilled holes in each corner to use my awning rod.
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:39 AM   #26
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Rich,
One of the items that I have read and use is to use plywood as a top for the blocks. In my case I use 5/8" plywood on top of 2 x 12 as ramps for the MH. I used sheet rock screws to attach the plywod to the top of the 2 x 12's. I have 6 that I carry in the MH and then I have some longer ones here at the stick house for leveling. I use the ones in the MH for leveling or for the jacks in sandy/grassy situations.

I have cracks in the 2 x 12's but the plywood does not crack and keeps the integrity of the wood it is attached to. The recommended plywood is 3/4" but all I had on hand at the time was 5/8 and it is working well also.

Happy trails.

Edited: One thing that each owner needs to know, and my manual states how much, is what distance the coach squats when the air bag system is deflated. In my specific case the mfg recommends 3" or less of pad, else when the coach inflates it may not lift the jacks off the pad. Using a taller pad could lead to a road assistance call and some embarrassment.
Thanks for the information on this. I have not experienced an issue with the height yet. Based on the feedback I fully intend on building additional jack pads with form plywood and stall mat as well. Thank you for your advice on this subject. Drive safe.
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:41 AM   #27
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Can't beat the stall mat. I have used them for garage floor space in front of the tool benches as well. Mine is getting smaller all the time. Time to get another mat!
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:12 AM   #28
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Looks great. Now I have another project.
x2

Thanks!
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