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Old 08-13-2008, 07:05 PM   #1
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Looking to build a pad at home for a 27,500 GVWR MH. Live in Central NH, so winters are harsh. Snow (130" last year), ice and cold are a problem. Initially no overhead covering. Do you recommend blacktop, concrete or something else? What base, thickness and other factors do I have to consider in order to support that GVWR?
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Old 08-13-2008, 07:05 PM   #2
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Looking to build a pad at home for a 27,500 GVWR MH. Live in Central NH, so winters are harsh. Snow (130" last year), ice and cold are a problem. Initially no overhead covering. Do you recommend blacktop, concrete or something else? What base, thickness and other factors do I have to consider in order to support that GVWR?
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Old 08-13-2008, 07:41 PM   #3
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Bob, I would go with concrete. Let me know what kind of soil you have (sandy, rocky etc.) that will impact the design. If I can I'll give you a pretty good rundown on something that will hold up in that cold.
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:48 AM   #4
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bob, when we built our new stick house 3 yrs ago we added a 100x14 ft. drive along side our garage. sand base compacted very well,added wire mesh and 4" concrete. our motor home is aprox. 30,000 lbs. northern michigan and no cracks. jim
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Old 08-14-2008, 03:33 AM   #5
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Hey Bob,
We went with 3/4" processed stone.
See orig. post here

Hope all is going well with that new rig!
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Old 08-14-2008, 04:19 AM   #6
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I think that either a stone blend or reprocessed concrete is the way to go, as Nautique has done. A well compacted base and then 4" of stone, again compacted after leveling should work well. Any frost heaves are easily straightened out. To eliminate the rain bounce on the wheels put down pads under the wheels and keep them covered, should not be a problem.
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Old 08-14-2008, 06:30 AM   #7
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Thanks for the responses.

Hondo122 - Soil is sand and clay.

NAUTIQUE - Very nice!

So far, there are no recommendations for blacktop. Other than cost, and I know that is important, are there reasons to stay away from blacktop? I'm asking because my daughter lives next door and is having her 180' gravel driveway paved and I'm considering a 12x40 pad within 20' of my existing paved driveway. Paver I've used before is coming to give an estimate and although I don't know the total price yet, I do know we'll save some because of doing both at the same time.
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Old 08-14-2008, 07:06 AM   #8
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To do asphalt right, you need a sub-grade primer and at least 4" of compacted road base with either 4" or 6" over the top to last and preferably topped with a HD slurry sealer. Asphalt is fine for parking HD vehicles BUT I see more parking "pads" out of concrete.

I would pour the pad out of fiber-reinforced concrete, include a #4-24" o.c. rebar mat and have the edge (and any approach apron) thickened to 8" with the primary slab being no less than 6" thick. This may seem a bit excessive but I have done a LOT of concrete pads over the years and this is the only really good formula for a crack free, HD parking pad.

We currently have a very good 4" thick slab over a DG/clay heavily compacted base but I am starting to get cracks where I shouldn't and will have to replace it someday.

The rebar isn't absolutely neccesary if you use the fiber reinforcing BUT if you are adding a structure above it, I would add the rebar and thicken the slab edges to help better distribute the added load. You talked about frost heaving (I think) so the rebar would definately help here. Still the base must be really compact.

If the "structure" will be stick built, you had better make the edges footings now and tie the footing vertical rebar into the slab mat.

Just my $.02 though. If cost is the issue and you can get a deal on the AC paving, go for it. Just have them compact and prime your subgrade, compact the road base (AC over dirt won't cut it...for long) and compact the AC, all with those neat little vibratory steam rollers.

Heck, maybe they will even let you drive it a bit.
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:02 PM   #9
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I have a blacktop pad for my coach which exceeds 30K. I do put 18"x18" pads under the jacks. After two summers with 90+ summer temps and minus 30 winter temps it still looks good. I did do lot of subtrate compaction because that is a must IMHO. Good luck.
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Old 08-14-2008, 06:13 PM   #10
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I have a concrete drive at my house. My soil is red clay (what else in Georgia). It is a 4" pour with the wire mesh in the drive -- has been down since 1995 with no cracks at all. I put down 3/4 inch plywood under the wheels when parked. Also give me a good base that I can use a creeper on to do maintance under the MH when I need to.
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Old 08-14-2008, 06:24 PM   #11
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I have a 14 x 40 foot cement pad. It is poured using 4000psi fiber concrete. It has re-bar in the pour. I believe my pad is at most 6-7 inches deep but it most likely averages 5 inches. We are on sand here. I haven't seen anything that looks like a crack and I use my jacks directly on the cement. The pad was poured in October 2005.

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Old 08-14-2008, 06:44 PM   #12
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Look before you start flaming me, there are lots of ways to do it that might work. What I'm proposing is guaranteed to work. A slab in that region should have a footing on the perimiter to avoid heaving from frost. A 12" wide 2' deep footing poured monolithic with the slab 6" should do it. I would get 4000 psi air entrained admixture concrete. #4 rebar 16" oc both ways 2" off the bottom of the pour. All on 4" of 3/4 modified crushed stone compacted. It could be done for less but this is how I would do it. 40 years commercial construction experience.
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Old 08-20-2008, 03:43 AM   #13
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I had a pad poured for use during the summers here in northwest lower Michigan. 20'X40'. Compacted sand base (that's what we have here), 6 inches thick, 4000psi fiber reinforced mix, rebar around perimeter and wire mesh. Graded the gravel approach to be level with the pad.

Just the first summer, so no report on how well it will hold up.
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